mopar440cu

IMG_1615.MOV OK,I checked the theory of possibly being the Map Sensor and to my surprise it cured it, knock on wood!!!

I was thinking out loud to myself, I said “self what about maybe it could be the map sensor!” Lol What do you guys think? E6FF6485-D097-498E-8FE8-3DFB9BBE1344.MOV

Oops, I forgot to add it was from AutoZone and they double checked to see if it was indeed a Wells. They told me they just repack it in a different box, which is no different than what my aluminum supplier does and other auto distributors do. It looks just like the one from the Wells videos also. OK, here is the new dilemma on this one. I changed out the oil sender to this new one and still had the oil pressure dropping to zero then going back up. I decided changed that one out for another oil sender, that is good on another 3500, and that didn't do any good. It did the same thing. So, I started to test wires on the oil sender plug. From what I am reading off this site from the wiring diagram I know there is one for ground and one for 5 volt supply and one for return. The ground tested fine. The 5 volt orange colored, if I remember, had weird findings. When I first tested it I got 1.91v at the plug only. I know from the wiring diagram that this wire goes from the oil sender gets spliced to the Map sensor then to ECM on the motor. I then checked the Map plug for 5 volts and only got 4.96v. I had to move the truck to my poll barn due to rain, forgot to plug the map sensor in and the oil sender worked like it use to. Here is the part I am confused, when I plugged the sender back in it stopped working properly and was erratic again?? Does this mean the PCM is bad?? I have a temporary mechanical gauge in it until I get my gauge in and the pressure is good, but I need to fix the dash one. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated! I was thinking maybe if I find a true 5v ignition activated source and wire it to the sender maybe that might help? Thanks, Steve

NO, Had to work on another one this weekend.LOL Always something.

I didnt even think of that! Thanks for reminding me!!

Will a 3rd Gen steering gearbox bolt up to a 2nd Gen frame and will the lines be the same? I have a chance to buy one and was thinking of swapping mine out. Thanks!!!

My vote is talk to Jon at Dynamic also. He is full of knowledge on diesel transmissions and very reasonable. Heck he rebuilt a 47RE VB for me and I and the crew really enjoy it. I know the next time another one goes out its going to be shipped to him, unless I can find a wrecked truck with a 5 or 6 speed manual to convert my personal one over to. I am glad you found some one you can trust in our state. I have bought a total of 12 transmission for 5 3500's since 03-2018 from different shops from Suncoast to local friends shops. They all never held up on average more than 2-3 years, rough guessing, and my company only hauls 16' average trailers with aluminum products on it.

Wife sent me a pic of what was delivered, awesome!!

No it’s a Wells Oops, I forgot to add it was from AutoZone and they double checked to see if it was indeed a Wells. They told me they just repack it in a different box, which is no different than what my aluminum supplier does and other auto distributors do. It looks just like the one from the Wells videos also.

Yeah thats what I thought, but its weird thanks!! I swapped the new one to the donor truck and the readings were the same on it as the original one?? Strange! I am going to install mechanical oil gauges in the rest of them.

Sure wish you would of chimed in earlier with info, might of got one from you. I did not know you were on this site, partially my fault for not seeing the vendors list.

Ok, after installing it I noticed that the pressure is a slight lower at idle and at WOT. So, I decided not to panic and swap out a stock one from another 3500 and to my surprise its reading better pressure. I understand they are not exactly the greatest for pressure reading like a mechanical , but do you guys think the difference is because of the size of the opening in the sender itsef compared to the stock size? I hooked up a mechanical gauge that I had to recheck pressure at the filter and the readings are good.

Dang it forgot to ask, what torque wrench do you recommend ? I have a new Tekon I used on my AMC360 rebuild which I had no problem to this day and its been a couple years. Awesome!! Do you have any recommendations on studs, maybe ARP? Also whats a good torque wrench to do this with? I have a Tekon, but don't want to mess this up.

Ok what is a VCO please? Another question for you. How are you getting the numbers for the injectors? What I mean, for example, is what does a 7x10 injector come out to be? Is it a 110? When you did yours I forgot to ask also did you machine the lower rocker arm cover at the No. 24 bolt hole location in the torque sequence to facilitate installation of the lower rocker arm cover? How did you do it? I am pricing the studs now is why I ask.

I just had to replace a pressure sending switch and thought I would share the differences. The old dirty one is from a 3500 I am working on. The other is one I ordered through Amazon that crossed referenced with the stock one, but Wow what a difference! It seems to work like the old one when I first bought it in 02 though. Lol I know some of you are going to say, “put a mechanical gauge in it”. Rest assure I intend to, but it is a waste unfortunately because none of my employees will watch gauges. Lol This is why I like the stock dash gauge because at least they hear the chime going off and then see the indicator light on the dash. Then they just complain to me the sound and light is annoying. Lol