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    Louisville Kentucky

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  1. So the hole on the washer should point towards the rear of the truck?
  2. No I have new stock control arms but they're probably not long enough. I maxed the adjustment bolts on both sides. My tires are around 50 percent tread, and my castor is set to whatever the guys at the tire shop set it at when I took it in after doing front end work 6 months ago.
  3. Interesting. My trucks has no steering problems and drives straight, right up until it tries to murder me. I'm going to look into a steering box stabilizer or damper... Maybe both. Literally the only things I haven't done.
  4. Yea that's what sucks, is that I didn't cheap out on anything as I slowly rebuilt the front end. I did everything right, including longer control arms when thr bushings failed on those. I don't really want to go back to stock, as I have so much money into the front end and I would have to get new tires to because they would rub. The death wobble is very rare, but or scares me enough to not have my 6 uear old with me in the truck.
  5. I have stock wheels and a 2.5 inch level. Adjustable track bar that centers the axle. Even of the steering stabilizer is worn out, I was always under the impression that that little shock didn't matter much if everything else was in order. Should I go get a toed in alignment? Should I buy one of those fox 2.0 stabilizers?
  6. I have replaced EVERY component on the front end of my truck. Tie rod ends, DOR track bar, shocks, springs, ball joints, steering box, and u joints. How is it remotely possible that I still have death wobble when going over certain over passes and bumps on the expressway?
  7. But these are new bearings. I can you inspect the tone ring without removing the bearing?
  8. Yea that's going to be the plan. Just hate disassembling everything down to the bearing for the 4th time. Its getting old
  9. As someone who's chasing my own abs ghosts, no scanner reads our abs codes unless its an expensive snap on scanner or the dealers scanner.
  10. Another update: Borrowed a friends 3000 dollar snap on reader. This thing was incredible, could even shut off my injectors one by one, which I didn't even think was possible on our trucks. Any who. Reader showed that there was no signal going to the left front wheel sensor, and showed no mph reading on that wheel. Keep in mind all of the sensors are new, but i supposed it was possible that i had a bad one out of the box. Replaced the sensor and I'm still not getting signal to it. The tone ring looks good on the new bearing, so I'm guessing that the connector going from the module to the sensor has a short in it. I'm going to investigate more later. The nightmare continues.
  11. I have some bad news... the abs light came back on... It was fine for a week driving back and forth 2 hours a day, then i started it today and the abs light came on as i was pulling away. Does anyone have any experience in code readers that will read abs on these trucks? My 300 dollar autel abs scanner wont do it. I really dont want to take it to the dealer again so they can spend 2 minutes reading a code for 100 dollars. I know that the chrysler tru star scanner would for sure work, but anything in the price range for a diyer?
  12. Update: After a few days with the repaired abs module, the light went away. One more thing off the list
  13. Should I get a scanner that can reset abs codes and see if it comes back?
  14. So I've had my abs light on for over a year now. I replaced the front wheel sensors, the rear speed sensor and the wheel bearings. I gave up and took it to the dealer and they determined that the module was bad, so I sent it into sia electronics to have it repaired. Installed the rebuilt module in the truck and I still have the light. I'm too deep to give up now but what other variable could be causing this?
  15. I mean it is pretty old at this point, but its only been on there for 50k miles. It does weep fuel, so maybe it's just fried now? How long do these pumps usually last, because they're not cheap.
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