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sooxies

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sooxies last won the day on October 6 2016

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    Appleton, WI

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  1. I've also load tested both of my batteries and they still show 98% even being 5 years old. I religiously keep them on a float charger if I knowingly am not going to drive the vehicle (vacation, etc.)
  2. Grid heaters have been unhooked to preserve diodes and @BBHD no codes with cluster test...sorry fellas forgot to mention that. Knew I forgot something in my original post.
  3. So what else, specifically, in an alternator can cause excessive AC noise. I just replaced the diodes and brushes in my original and I'm getting the same exact reading as I was with a new replacement? Literally, the exact same reading on my Fluke 87. Cold engine, everything off, .068 at startup (clearly too high), and then it slowly works it's way down. New alternator was a cheap unit which I returned immediately after doing a noise test then decided to do a rebuild of my own. The only real issue I am having is I notice the tachometer is not moving in a fluid motion. Speed/RPM dependent? I really might make a video of this issue because it's quite interesting. Revving the engine in neutral it appears to be fine. Accelerating in first/second gear it seems to move normally. Getting into third, and cruising gears, it's obvious that it looks like a ticking motion. Not like a wall clock, but you can tell it's not as smooth as it should be. When using cruise control at freeway speeds it's the most obvious because you can rest your foot on the pedal and feel it adjusting up/down constantly (matching with the tach). I would assume the cluster is fine if it's only doing it under certain circumstances. I've sometimes noticed, at idle, the tach bounces ever so slightly as well. I did recheck my valve lash to rule out an issue there. I read that some members had funky issues with valves not being adjusted properly. Still to do: 1) Ground Wire Mod 2) Pull 140A fuse and disconnect alternator for a test drive to see if issue goes away
  4. Most certainly. Thank You! I found it interesting that mine burned up right at the beginning of summer. Also this vehicle lived in California (Los Angeles suburb) all of it's life prior to my ownership. One wouldn't think the grid heaters were used very often. It does have a block heater too...oddly enough.
  5. Finally got around to disassembling my old alternator. I believe this is the factory original one. Unfortunately I stripped out 2 of the 4 screw heads holding the diodes in! Any tips for stripped screws? Anyways, @Mopar1973Man The diodes you sell...do they fit in all Denso alternators found on 94-02 trucks? I have a 98.5, which from the looks of it, is the same as a 12 valve alternator. It doesn't have that plug on the back (see photo from FSM).
  6. I just installed my 4G. I know they are quieter compared to the non-4G units but there are also internal differences from what I understood.
  7. @SavageTusk You can also do it through Cummins QuickServe. https://quickserve.cummins.com Make a free account and add the ESN.
  8. @Mopar1973Man Awesome. Thanks! I'll try the main harness grommet this time. Is it a tight fit? I suppose it's not. I think that's what swayed me away from doing it the first time. Was worried I'd be slitting into something and it may not end up working in the long run.
  9. Straight and to the point! Rewiring my three gauges. Just wanted to see/hear what people have setup for getting their sensor wires past the firewall. Thanks!
  10. Absolutely check for high AC noise!
  11. @Mopar1973Man @adamey1000 @Nekkedbob Jeez....that wouldn't be a loose ground wire for the PCM could it? I barely touched it and it slipped right out of the crimp. I can only assume this will fix my issue! Thanks for the help fellas! Learned a lot about electronics in a short amount of time. Time to re-check for AC noise and then ground wire mod. I did order these cables from custombatterycables.com and they are very high quality. The crimp sleeve that came with it to splice these wires was a dumb move on me but I needed to get the truck on the road at the time. Time to learn how to solder. I feel they should emphasize to solder these wires only. Why even include a the crimp? Again, I should have known better.
  12. Alrighty. Confirmed the parasitic draw is coming from the OBD2 port. I see only 19 milliamps when i have my scanner plugged in. Getting somewhere slowly! Now onto wire chasing. I went into my 1998 FSM and it states that pin 5 eventually ends up at G105 and pin 4 at G108. I wish the grounds were labelled like yours are MoparMan. Still searching through my FSM. It's obvious wiring changes were made all throughout the 98-02 24-Valves. One day at a time...making progress.
  13. @Nekkedbob Seat belt checked out fine. It did take about half hour but they did lock up as they should. Going to repeat and test for draw after 30 minutes. The clicking noise I was hearing was coming from the AC compressor. I unhooked it and the noise went away. Again, was only hearing this when my scanner was not hooked into the OBD port. @Mopar1973Man I'm getting correct voltage at pin 16 (which I assumed). Not sure if I did this correctly, but for pins 4 and 5 I grounded my meter under the dash and then probed 4/5 on ohm's setting...Pin 4 read -1.9 and Pin 5 I could not get a reading (just read OL). So is pin 5 the wire I should trace?
  14. Yes. Thank You! I did run across someone mentioning the seatbelt. I will report back tomorrow. Thank you to all!
  15. Update. WTS light functions as normal with OBD2 scanner plugged in (all lights appear to be normal as a matter of fact). So would this be a grounding issue? At least for the OBD port? Check engine is functioning and scanner shows both codes as noted above. So in regards to that, with my multimeter, how do I go about testing the wires on the data port? i.e. AC/DC/volts/amps/ohms?
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