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  • Location (City, State)
    Las Vegas, nv

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  1. Hey guys, recently while I’m in traffic I’ve been having a voltage Drop and temperature spike. I’m in Las Vegas and daily temps are 100°+. I just fixed a vacuum leak on my 4x4 actuator which was causing excessive oil to come out of the crank case breather. Do y’all think this might be related because of oil getting on the pulleys and I just need to clean them up and swap the belt or should I start looking in a different direction?
  2. What does the wiring look like when you run it into the switch. I’d like to do this on my truck as well to get rid of my TM issues
  3. So do y’all think I’m safer doing that switch that makes it think it’s in neutral or should I go with a BD RAD box??
  4. Driving my ‘02 24 valve after a fresh VP44 install and she feels a lot happier than before however when I give her the beans out of a stop she feels sluggish to get up and go through first and second then as soon as I get third she takes off like a rocket. Here is all the stuff I have done, does anyone have any ideas? Is it normal? a set of 150hp SAC injectors, thoroughbred diesel 2 year VP44, quadzilla adrenaline module Running power driven diesel tunes, built 47RE trans w/ a billet triple disc converter, 150gph fass, BD super B turbo (64.5mm comp 80mm turbine), AFE cold air intake, AFE exhau
  5. I have an ‘02 cummins with what I believe is a failing stock VP44 due to the hard hot starting, P0126, and P1693 codes. My truck is fairly built already with a set of 150hp SAC injectors, quadzilla adrenaline module, ARP head studs, built 47RE trans, 150gph fass, S364 turbo, AFE cold air intake, AFE exhaust manifold, and a 4” straight pipe. Is a hot rod pump something that’s going to be worth the money on my truck or am I better off sticking to a stock pump. Also is there going to be a loss in reliability if i do a hot rod pump vs. a stock replacement?
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