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Everything posted by sooxies

  1. @Doug Dear I have a 98.5. I did the mod as instructed and left factory B+ unhooked and secured out of the way for the time being. New charge wire to passenger battery. AC noise is within spec for me. Look directly underneath your thermostat housing and you'll see where that ground terminates (the second wire in question). Again, one goes to the PDC (factory charge wire) and the second (factory ground) terminates right underneath the thermostat housing.
  2. June 1, 2021 ship date! This is subject to change as my recruiter gave me a window of March/April/May. They need to make mission so they will shuffle people around to keep their quotas looking good for each month. Given this, I may end up selling my 1998. I have multiple safe and secure places to store it rent free. But, I really hate to insure something that's going to basically sit for four years. Haven't made up my mind yet. Truck has a 53 block so I'm not even sure who would buy the thing. It is a California truck. Never been in snow/salt and is completely free of rust
  3. @015point9 Hey thanks for reaching out! Sorry for the late response. I'm expecting nothing less than good and bad times. Whatever challenges I may face... I'll never regret taking that oath. 28 is the current limit for the Corps. As long as you begin recruit training before your 29th birthday then you're all good. To my surprise, of course a recruiter would never say this, you aren't legally bound to do anything until you step on the yellow footprints at one of the recruiting depots. I know it's what I want to do by all means but you don't have to ship if you don'
  4. Long story short, I am on track for going active duty in May (or earlier) in the Marine Corps. If anyone could give some advice or short stories about choosing an MOS or what MOS you had and why, etc. I have lots of hobbies that the Marines offer in regards to jobs but I do want to use as much free time as possible during my service to accumulate college credits. I'm going in older...add ten years to eighteen. Very mature. I know this probably isn't the best place to ask this question due to likelihood of limited former military but I trust everyone on here. I've heard peo
  5. Thank you all for the suggestions. I ended up trying Pro Seal 61067 and it seems to be holding so far!
  6. Got around to the 30k mile interval so it was time to flush the brake fluid. Followed the procedure as per the FSM. I use an air powered tool that pulls the fluid through back from the master cylinder to flush. I couldn't help but notice that both rear brakes were producing air bubbles no matter how long I was running new fluid through them (rear passenger was more noticeable than rear driver). Both front brakes had zero air bubbles which is I why I'm a little confused! I did not get around to pulling the drums off to inspect for leaks, but is it safe to condemn the wheels cylinders being
  7. Does anyone have any recommendations for reattactching the rear view mirror mount to the windshield? I just tried Permatex 84101 which is a 5 minute general epoxy and it did not work. Naturally, I made sure both surfaces were extremely clean and grease/oil free. Perhaps someone has had luck with another method/product. Thank You!
  8. Had the same issue on my truck. Dorman makes it. I ordered this one a couple years ago and it worked perfectly! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO93JI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  9. @Tractorman I am so sorry. I think when I was typing that last message I was too excited as everything seemed normal. The gauge DID NOT go down when the system was pressurized, to spec, in test number one. Held pressure just fine with no loss. Needle held right at 16 PSI and didn't move at all. I will continue to monitor engine coolant to be 100% certain that it is not using any during operation. Thank You all for your help!
  10. Ok all. I did all the tests that are show in the video (they are the same as in the users manual for the tool). Test 1: System held 16 PSI just fine (cold engine and not running) Stopped test just under five minutes. Needle did go down. Test 2: Needle did not immediately rise upon startup (cold engine) Stopped test around 90 seconds. Seemed normal. Test 3: Needle was not vibrating with system pressurized to 16 PSI but was very slowly starting to rise (engine running/cold motor) Ran this test for about 90 seconds. No needle vibrations b
  11. @Tractorman Thank You very much sir. I ordered a pressure test kit from Mityvac and it will arrive on Sunday. Slowly building up a tool collection so I figured it's worthwhile to have around even if it will not get used very often. I know they're self explanatory but I have never used one before. I'm assuming if there was an external leak one would see bubbles and/or hear air hissing. What about if there's an internal leak? Will I be able to hear anything? I think what I'm trying to say is: What is the process to rule in or out a bad head gasket using this tool. Thank You
  12. What you stated above seems to be an issue for me. Whenever I pull over to take a look under the hood (truck idling/at operating temp.) the hose is still firm. Not a good sign I take it.
  13. @dripley Oil looks great! Nice and golden. The level on the dipstick has not risen at all. @wil440 Yes...running a 190 thermostat. I will pressure test to be certain. @Tractorman @Haggar Thank you for the explanation! I originally was running the 19 PSI cap that came with the Mishimito radiator but have now switched back to a 16 PSI to see if that had any effect. I let the truck idle for about a minute in the driveway (before going on my test drive) and the upper hose didn't dramatically become firm. Again, I don't know how firm is too firm at operating temperature.
  14. Well onto the next item to fix...what appears to be a head gasket problem . I'm extremely certain that my issue is in fact a bad H.G. but I took a short video so you all can see what I see. The video was taken right after shutdown on a hot engine. What caught my attention, initially, was the upper radiator hose becoming quite firm upon squeezing it at operating temperature. For what it's worth, I had gotten some air into the system (changed the thermostat and radiator cap/went on a short drive up to operating temperature). I cant imagine these bubbles have anything to do with air being bl
  15. New charge cable is to the auxiliary battery. I just need to add the extra wire between both negative terminals on the batteries. Should arrive soon.
  16. Now reading .021 at idle with the new charge cable. Thanks for the help all!
  17. @Haggar Great! Thanks! I was under the assumption the brake switch had to be replaced whenever the rod is removed from the pedal. I had my clutch and brake pedals completely removed so I could redo all of the plastic bushings and also clean them up. Now my stop lamp switch isn't working correctly as a result and am sitting on the replacement waiting to go in. Brake lights are constantly lit when I plug the harness in. The switch isn't making contact with the pedal at rest.
  18. I was wondering the same thing...maybe it could go away. It truly is just damp and not pouring in through the firewall or anything crazy. No bubbles in PS reservoir/pedal feels normal. I just did a good flush on my system with my new Blue Top steering box. Fluid was due to be serviced. Long story short, I need to replace my brake light switch and don't want to replace it again if I decide/need to remove the hydroboost. I know the switches are cheap but I'd figured I'd save the money if possible.
  19. Hey, I thought I'd revive this thread. I have the same issue where it's damp in the cab and leaking nowhere else. Specifically, which seal(s) on the hydroboost causes fluid to seep on the inside of the cab? Looking at a reseal kit from piratejack as well. Any special tools needed? @Haggar I know you have knowledge on this subject too. Thanks!
  20. @Alexio Auditore been following your posts this past week on that other thread. Thanks for the input. I will give an update on my end soon.
  21. Yes. I will be replacing the charge cable very soon. I wasn't sure if only rerouting the four grounds would show any significant drop. Could someone clarify on doing the additional battery to battery negative connection. Is this necessary? It has to do with the temperature sensor on the main battery, correct? @Mopar1973Man I believe you said in a recent post that assuming if both batteries and cables are in good condition then it would be fine the way it is without adding that negative cable. @dripley Was referring to after when I said post. I apologize. Thank You all
  22. Hello all I am back! First let me state that I triple checked all of my work. No codes are being thrown at the moment. Continuing....I just finished the ground wire mod and I am still getting high readings of .062 at idle and nearing .10 with throttle applied (using a Fluke 87-V). Unfortunately, I do not remember my initial readings as the truck has been sitting for a short while but I know they were similar to what I am seeing now. I know of the "second phase" I'd guess you call it with the W-T Mod....new charge wire from aux. battery to alternator (with a fusible l
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