Jump to content


Unpaid Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

25 Unskilled

About outlaw7

  • Rank
    Limited Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    Cherokee Village, Arkansas

Recent Profile Visitors

716 profile views
  1. outlaw7


  2. Well harness is back in my cc'd buss is working again the computers are good to go about the solder comment I guarantee they won't fail trust that for one my harness ain't riding the block no more it's away from it no need to heat soak that thing my mods are great I now have a digital led voltage display on my vp44 power feed and an in cab test ppoint for apps no more guessing my only prob is I've concluded my VP is dieying a slow death o well
  3. Ok Dripley n Jag1 yes that was is the bolt and connector I'm talking about in the pic upper right corner black connector and W-T yes I fixed all of them there were 3 places the ground did that I'll be reinstalling today I'm going to open a web store selling cable kits custom harnesses test tools and DC filters stiffining solutions soon
  4. ok folks here it goes....... I found 2 grounds like w-t displayed, including one at the bottom of the ecm that had four 14awg tieed to a 10 awg that deadheads beside the starter on the block the fuel pump +12v is done this way as well as a couple buss sets and and a power set and I redid them all , I removed that big clump of orange wire that was like an extra foot and a half of uselessness, everything was fluxed soldered and heat shrunk to ease my mind.... and that's just the lower engine harness....the upper has only a couple done that way but both are bussing 2 for the +/- buss and two for
  5. Well I chased all my busses out last night right into the dash and I don't have a short or anything and it's starting to piss me off I've got 7 different cuts and gouges on my hands and arms , half my truck systems on the ground grrrrrr grrrrrr. Gotta work for a church this am then starting rewrapping the harnesses while integrating some extra features , gauge wiring and test points etc gonna be a long *** night I'll post pics as I go
  6. 2.5 hours to remove it another hour to strip and clean it, it was nasty oil soaked and filthy . most of the flex and friction tape was garbage . the alternator feed cable is a joke for a 140 amp output unit so its going bye bye
  7. That meter also comes in 750 and 1000 amp ranges as well I'm gonna work up a plug n play kit that is 52mm gauge pod based for ease of mounting
  8. Well I'm scared now I'm pulling my harness this weekend for sure I got a buss bad anyway but that that's not natural
  9. During my research onac ripple I came across an interesting bit in an unlikely place. The big stereo crowd has a saying called the big 3 , basicly if your gonna run a lot of amps replace the batteries cables and alternator with stouter stuff which thinking back you couldn't buy a 240 or 320 amp alternator back in 01 and you can now he'll my dad's 16 f350 has like a 240 amp alt on it just think maybe that's part of what needs done
  10. Man I've got a 96 k2500 w an aftermarket alt been on since 12 it's pumping .21vac at idle it's my test bed for my filter deal and I have solved that problem but I need to prove it before I go further but it's just newer stuff in the reman world sucks and yes maybe Dodge is more sensitive idk not enough input for data
  11. That's my point. Newer electronics are made in China including diodes so tolerance is ****
  12. Howdy thought I'd chime in ,Jag1 the reason your having trouble soldering is the copper wire is drawing the heat away take a small gator clip and clip it on the insulation side like a heat sink in reverse also use flux and I've solved the actual ripple deal I'm just waiting on my oscilloscope to arrive for hard evidence I don't trust meters for this. As soon as I can post my proof I will and it does work I'm running a setup on my suburban right now the alt is way out spitting .21vac at idle and I'm filtering down to .0012 and I've solved the grid heater prob as well
  13. i gotta drag 100$ together for a bare bones parts set and then i will reveal
  14. see I'm still running my oem cables and I've had to change connectors a few times I'm starting to see a significant amount of black oxidation which means they're near the end of their days so I'm lookin at 2/0 hi count strand with a heavy jacket and then fusion ring eye terminals and heavy duty block post mounts.
  15. All work and no play makes ................for some real interesting discoveries.....like the fact.........that some how my text size had changed from 14 down to 8 who knows??? ok on the subject of toasters and our trucks, this is what I recommend for a start, and no it aint cheap but I mean lets face it if we were that concerned with money we dam sure wouldn't drive diesels itd be a prius or somethin. Anyway here is what I recommend. 1 run the highest cca batteries that you can, why because the higher the cca the higher the ah rating which means a larger reservoir of energy= voltage
  • Create New...