98.5

has anyone made their own exhaust brake? I've always thought about using a exhaust cut out (like for use on gassers to dump out before mufflers.) because a exhaust brake is basically a butterfly valve in the exhaust. the biggest problem i could see is the valve not opening back up because of the exhaust pressure. what is everyone's opinion?

busted the front cover, no gear damage. i was backing up to stock trailer, heard a pop after hooking up trailer i seen it dripping oil, lost less than 2 quarts in 5-10 min idling. i shut the truck off checked it out, uh hooked, and drove it up to the barn. Id say if i was driving down the road i wouldn't of realized it until oil psi dropped. if you have any doubt about the pin coming out save your self a lot of trouble and tab it. i got lucky with getting a free cover from a buddy that p pumped his 01. But you still have to pull the bumper, core support, radiator, inner-cooler, fan, pump, vacuum pump, balancer, front cover, valve train, and cam. :banghead::banghead::banghead: - - - Updated - - - the housing off the 01 has a cover over the dowel pin hole. i still put a shot of green lock tight on the new pin. weather or not you need the pin or not is a good question. some say you have to have to have it or the gear mesh will be off, engineers from Cummins have told me that there for assembly purpose only. I figured im not taking a chance on 25cent pin

i was always under the impression that 24v had the "kdp fix" casted in to the cover, this was not the case on my 98, the dowel pin backed out at about 255k miles. luckily i was backing up to a trailer at home not on the road somewhere.

that is very true and it would be impractical as well, before all the electronic pumps came out the lower psi piston pump was a good upgrade for first gen trucks.has anybody had any problems with the new quick connect fittings leaking?

raptor 150, vulcan draw straw, 2 micron cat filter, 1/2 lines 18psi @ idle, 17psi @ WOT im sure if i were running a wire tap box it would drop to 15-16@WOTi run a mechanical FP gauge, with no isolator

i used my 2ed gen lugs with my 3rd gen wheels. how did your rear center caps fit? i had to take a dremal to the inside of mine to make them fit snug, im assuming this is because rear disk brake axles have different hubs.

Ive floated the gears in my 4500 for going on 120k miles with no negative affect. reason i started floating is it shifts smother than using the clutch(one of the down falls of a double disk clutch). i clutch taking off and on occasion down shifting.

I've had my raptor 150 for 4-5 years, it must be one of the good ones (knock on wood) i put a raptor 100 on a buddys truck a few months back, it a completely different pump, when i bought my raptor if you mounted it on the inside of the frame the inlet was facing the front of the truck, so you had to use a 90* fitting and loop the lines around the pump. Because of this i made a mount to go under the bed where a fass pump would mount, i also mounted it there because i have a 2 micron cat filter, and it is almost a foot tall so there would be clearance issues under the cab. The new pump i put on has the inlet/outlet in the "correct" location to be mounted on the inside of the frame and uses factory style quick lock fittings. after seeing the quality of the new pump, lines and mount compared to the older pumps, i would would go with the assassin pump. :2cents:another option if your running an aftermarket cam(12v cam) would be a piston style lift pump(like used on p pump 12v). some 12v(non dodge) with ve and lucas cav pump use a piston pump that runs 18psi.

New from Indiana, I have read several of the mopar1973man write ups over the years, and found the forum after searching for hard start issues on my 98 24v a few weeks back.

ive been having the same issue on my 98, i'm running draw straw, raptor 150, and 2 micron cat filter, i have raptor and filter mounted under bed, where fass/air dog would be mounted due to how tall the cat filter is. i replaced pressure valve on the vp, replaced cross over tube o rings, checked tank vent, tried starting with fuel fill cap cracked. put a relay in so that pump would not run while engine is cranking. long story after over a month of tracking down this leak/ hard start issue and replacing the starter i decided to replace all the fuel lines and check the fittings. i fount that the line comming off the push lock fitting on my draw straw was starting to dry rot/crack just enough to let air in the fuel system. i cut an inch of line off and reinstalled the line on the draw straw. for going on 2 weeks it has started the first hit.