98.5

on the old truck they hydros went out with the south bend single disk..... the valairs are all 3600 plate load so you will need heavy hydros. the big input is a must with a double disk, in fact i dont think anyone makes clutches for the the stock 5spd input. i had Dan(owner of valair) make my first double disk to fit the stock input. i broke the input shaft in less than a month, I'm thinking he told me that mine was one of the only DD that he made with the small splines....for obvious reasons lolim running stock hydros with my south bend, but the plate load is only 3250# and it has the feel of a stock clutch. other than it not being the quite clutch that south bend claimed i have been more than happy with it. But its hard to beat the customer service of Valair!! The Valair ceramic double disk in the 99 held up to TST PM3/Haisley box, 240 injectors, hot rod vp with a 64/71/14 and then hx35over ht3b. with many boosted launches, 1000's of miles towing, lots of bumper to bumper traffic.

Double disk and big input is well worth the money!! Ive ran the 600hp valair and South Bend Con Fe clutches in other trucks ive owned and they are jerky and grabby. i went from the 3850 single ceramic to a 3600 valair double disk. the DD was way smoother. i bought my 98 with 5th gear out so while the transmission was out i replaced the stock clutch with the "quiet" 3250 South Bend double disk, it was rattle free for the first 8-10k miles and the rubber chatter clips wore out or fell out. now its louder than the average double disk. i filled the gap between the floor and the transmission with spray foam, you can barley hear it over the engine with the windows up. your money ahead to go with a double disk the first time

all sitting on bench in the barn:Ball jointsWheel bearingsu-jointstrack bartie rod endsyoke seals(front and rear diff)ceramic brake padswheel sealsrotorsbrake shoeswheel sealsshocksnew bhafboost elbowfog lightsdiff. oil (front and back)oil/filtertrans oil/ aft for t-caseNeed a day to dedicate to doing it :banghead:after all that excitement color match Al's bedliner on rockersHID headlightspaint new tailgateWant list:exhaust brakeedge juice cts3 piece exhaust manifold

http://www.cumminsperformanceparts.com/al39s-lin39.html sure beats $1400!!! i have a quart of paint i had mixed up to paint tailgate, so from what i have read i can use it for the color. - - - Updated - - - i ordered the liner kit and after reading several reviews i decided to go with the brush/roller kit rather than the gun. i dont want to have to worry about the over spray and if it sprays anything like a can of undercoating it would be nearly impossible to get an even coat. i plan on doing a test coat on a piece of flat steel with the color match, if it dont turn out ill go with black.

Thanks, I'm defiantly going to look in to it. do you have any idea on pricing? ill have to wait till this evening to call a local dealer.

the ccb catch bottle on the second gen 24v will ruin a stock damper. bottle fills up and covers the front of the engine in oil. rubber does not like oil.

To start with ive always hated the silver rockers, and this past winter pinch weld in the drivers door started to rust. I had planned on getting the rust stoped and having the rockers line x color matched to the red. ive got a quote of $1400. At that price line x is out of the question I've convinced my self that i would like the black rockers better than silver with rust spot in drivers door lol So has any one used any of the DIY bed-liners? How have they held up? what is your opinion on red trucks with black rockers?

ive heard that a FD will help balance out a Double Disk clutch and cut down on some of the chatter and rattle....if so i would look in to getting one

i ran 235/85/16 cooper at3 on my 02 f-350 crew cab flat bed, i was running hot shot loads and i ran them 68k miles, i sold the truck with them still on it, they had less than 1/4 tread. i ran a set of 285/75/16(8ply) toyo open country at's on my old 99 quad cab long bed dodge for 45k and on my 98.5 i had 285/75/16 (10 ply) nitto terra grapplers they lasted 18k and were SHOT!!! I got a set of 3rd gen take off wheels with 256/70/17 ive ran them for 18k with still about half tread. long story short i would recommend cooper at3's over any other tire ive ever ran!! i just put a set on the g/f's f-250. and my dodge will be getting a set this fall

ive put close to 1000 miles on since first had the problem, it hasn't done the same thing again but my odometer has went from 210k miles to 278k miles :think: but trip hasnt changed(except for miles actually driven.) im kind of puzzled is the mileage stored in the pcm or in the gauge cluster? i was always under them impression that it was in the pcm. i also forgot to mention that a couple years ago my lift pump completely quit working. i ended up cutting the harness for my air dog and ruing a signal wire for the relay to the power lock circuit. mike or anyone have any incite? the mileage isnt that big of an issue right now other than keeping service records. but if i replace the pcm with a used pcm will the mileage change? id hate to buy a used pcm out of a junk truck with 600k miles, and if i ever recited to sell the truck it show over 600k miles

I'd recommend that over what I have.

Thanks. It would be hard to justify the time and materials to build one for that....

Can you pm me price?

id guess somebody with a john deere combine said i bet i can cram that under the hood of my 12 valve :lmao:i personaly like the 6637( lot of guys use them on power strokes) because its not so close to the hood, i also made a stainless heat shield to keep from sucking hot air off the turbo......IMHO the the heat shield is a must, hot air is not efficient air.

thanks.

no there is 2 vacuum lines running running to the front axle, (red and green) red locks the axle in 4x4 green unlocks it. i put the solenoid in the red line, so when i fip the switch it closes the air solenoid and does not let the front axle lock in. i picked up the solnoid for under 30 bucks. and had less than 5 in a switch and the wiring.ive never seen the BD kit but im assuming it works of the same principlealso this will not work on 02 and up trucks with the live front axle.

sounds like injection pump, you defiantly need to pull the codes. but i would also unplug the lift pump and test for power at the plug with a multimeter or test light. i had issues with my old 99, the lift pump would not come on until i hit the starter 2 or 3 times, i ended up re swingeing the lift pump, but i never had a CEL. I was told it was a bad circuit in the pcm.

they only thing i did to prevent the line from rubbing and dumping oil in the cab is i ran the line inside of 1/4 rubber hose, it was left over from running the water line to my refrigerator. i was kind of nervous about the hard plastic line rubbing under the dash or where it goes through the firewall.

i made my own 2 lo kit, used a 12v air solenoid. i put it in the vacuum line going to the 4x4 acuatator on the front axle. i use it backing up trailer. anybody with a Double Disk Clutch knows how jumpy it is backing a heavy load in high range.

no codes, i took gauge cluster out put electric grease on the connection, and Ive drove 60 miles this evening with no problems, i guess i will see tomorrow if it does it again

before p pumping my old 99 i ran tst mp3 and Haisley Machine 120hp box (forget the name, possibley dvx, they haven't made them in 5+ years) 240 hp injectors, hot rod vp, and 2.5 inlet hx-50 all on a 53 block also ran ran edge drag comp/smarty and quad 4k adrenaline/smarty. tst/haisly had more bottom end that 913 p pump with full cut's and 5k gsk. i now run 75 hp injectors and edge ez on my 98.5, i like to play it safe

i had a westech electronic gauge and i replaced 3 senders in 2 years, so a few years back i got a isspro mechanical gauge i run a needle valve and fuel in the cab. has been at least 3 years with no issues.

my gauges started acting funny today, all gauges drop all lights come on and trip/odometer flashes. im going to check for bad connection on the gauge cluster in a few min. but i have a bad feeling that its the PCM. Anyone else have this problem or have any ideas? also alternator is still charging(fuel pressure does not drop, it drops 2psi with key on/ engine off) and no performance problems.

the aluminum wheels are thicker than the steel wheels, which means that the is more hub sticking out beyond the surface on the wheel on the steel's.

i have Firestone on my f-250 they mount a little different than on a dodge but i have had great luck with them. it stays hooked to horse trailer 99.9% of the time so the springs were wore out. the ride with empty is horrible. if your just wanting to lift the rear end id go with a taller block or lift springs.my dodge has factory over loads and ive never had it squat enough to hit the rubber load stops