adamey1000

This doesn’t necessarily mean that the hydroboost is not the source of the leak. It is the high point in the system. So if a seal was broken, you wouldn’t expect to see much in the way of fluid leaking there. The only time it should leak would be under pressure. If the leak were below the level of the reservoir, you should see a low fluid level and the leak would be from whatever component had the hydraulic seal broken. A properly functioning booster should push back against your foot when you start the engine. But the fact that the brake pressure leaks down is curious. If the master cylinder was good and the booster was bad, it should still hold pressure. On one one of my father in laws cars, he was having a problem where the booster was actually applying the brakes itself. A dried out grommet was preventing the pedal from returning fully to the top, which allowed the vacuum pressure to suck the pedal back down. Unless you reached down and pulled the pedal up to the top of is travel, the brake pedal would slowly go to the floor on its own. Totally different meathod of operation, but the principle is the same. I just tell that story to say boosters do odd things sometimes.

If the module is disconnected now, why wouldn't i have lost speedo already?

sounds very much like a hydroboost issue. as others have said, if a seal let go and introduced air, that would explain the fluid rising. That is what mine did around a year ago. Flushed the PS pump and replaced the hydroboost, problem gone. I didn't even realize how much brake pressure I was having to use on the bad booster until I about threw myself through the windshield with the new booster.

Its been on my list for awhile now, just havent gotten it done yet. i think i have his site saved around here somewhere.

I am curious about this statement. Does the ABS system rely on vacuum pressure in some way? As long as I have owned the truck, the ABS has been non-functioning. The ABS module is currently disconnected as when you plug in the pig-tail there is a motor that runs constantly. I have had many vacuum related issues over the years, so i am wondering if there could be a vacuum related problem. I assume that my issue is a bad control board, just never have done anything about it.

@dieselautopower, does the head below come with stock springs, or are the a stiffer spring? i am curious if this might be a better option by the time i have a machine shop go through my head. As far as i know this would be the first time in the trucks history that the head had been off, so i would want to have it checked and most likely trued back up. i also do not have a spring compressor and have limited experience with valve trains. By the time you do all of that, a performance head looks attractive. https://www.dieselautopower.com/promaxx-performance-replacement-cylinder-head-chr620n

Agreed. I don’t see any scenario with a bigger turbo that doesn’t include head studs. The valve springs and push rods I hadn’t considered though...

@Mopar1973Man are you running head studs? Other than the turbo, our set-ups are pretty similar. Maybe it’s the smaller tire you run, but I have not ever been close to breaking the tires loose in 4th unless the pavement is wet. I was looking at the DAP screaming eagle turbos, and the price on them almost looks too good to be true. I also notice that they all seem to require an HX down pipe. If I could get one that was a direct bolt on to my current exhaust, that would be ideal since I just replaced my down pipe about 2 months or so ago. https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-screaming-eagle-sxe-fmw-2nd-gen-fit-62-73-4-91ar-t4-non-gated-4-21-marmon would this turbo work well with the 7x.011 injectors? I Just don’t want to be over fueled or laggy when I upgrade. I like to do things once. If that turbo came with the bolt on flange that I have, rather than the clamp, I think I would be really interested. How would it do with my current injectors? Could I spool it while I wait to upgrade injectors? I am starting to get some noticeable end play on my stock turbo, so I am starting to evaluate options.

With head studs and that set-up would there be any need for O-ringing the head?

Would a single turbo spool quick enough with those? I like the idea of compounds, but it’s a pretty big expense! If I could do it with a single and hit my performance goals that would be nice.

i would be selling the 75hp injectors after the swap, i was just curious if there was any value in having my original stock injectors rebuilt with bigger nozzles. I think that my goal would be in the 450-500hp. Ricer math would have me in the neighborhood already, but realistically i would say i am closer to 350hp. I tow occasionally and live at low elevation. My truck is mainly a daily driver, but I am a hot-rodder at heart and more is never enough.

I currently have the injectors below in my sig, but i have been considering going bigger. I would like to go up on turbo soon, and i would like to know what the best injector option would be. I have my original stock injectors that could be rebuilt with larger nozzles as well. Would there be significant cost savings by going this route? if i sent them in, can DAP rebuild and flow and pop test everything? I will most likely be going with a larger single, but i have been looking at compound kits, so i am not set on a particular turbo yet either.

One issue I am having with the new update, is the gallon trip and the average reset every time I start the truck. I am not sure if it something in the settings, or if it is the programming. On a fishing trip this weekend, the box forgot my previous level setting and was set to 0 after warm up. I have left it on three, so that was curious. It does look like this MPG average is much closer, but it is just based on trips, not a running average of the tank. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like i will get much good information from this tank since the gallon trip keeps resetting to 0.

that is good to know. i had not even considered that possibility

@NightHawk, now that you have driven on it for a few days, would you do it again? trying to gauge the benefit against the time investment. Although, mine would definitely benefit from a good deep cleaning. I don't have carpet in mine though, so i am sure that the plastic liner does little if anything to dampen road noise. If i opened it up, i suppose it would be a good time to add a speaker box behind the rear seat...

Initial test looks promising! I won’t be filling up again to check the gallon trip for awhile, but the mpg when I parked at work was consistent with my hand checked mpg from the last tank. iquad-2018-08-03-05.09.43.csv

I will flash the box this evening and give it a try

It seems like the filtering may be the issue with @Mopar1973Man‘s mpg. I assume that since the extended idle was earlier in the data set, it carries a much greater weight in the average. Is is it possible to do just a straight average of the eco with no filtering? I know that the gauge would jump bigger swings, but I assume that it would still eventually settle as the data increases.

I am going to run this tank on lvl 3 max. It looks like it is already tending to show much higher mpg on the display than I would expect, but I am only 60 miles or so into the tank. I will be taking the truck on an extended trip in a few weeks, so I should be able to get some good information in a short amount of time.

Just filled up the truck. Pumped 23.96 gallons and have turned 397.8 miles. Hand calculated average of 16.6. A little low for my daily driving, but I have been playing a lot lately, and running a higher wire tap, so it makes sense. Data log says when I pulled into the station, I had burned 20.79 gallons. Using the formula @Quadzilla Power gave earlier (23.96/20.79)125=144% offset. I assume that I would use my current offset (125%) as the multiplier, so correct me if I am wrong. If my math is right above, I will set my off-set to 144% and do an average across several tanks with no reset. I will upload periodic data logs with miles and hand calculated mpg when I fill up. iquad-2018-07-26-04.42.32.csv

Another data log. No new information, just more miles. Miles when I parked after work were at 332.3. Hand calculated, I am usually around 17-18mpg average on work weeks. So the 19.6 calculated from the last data log is not terribly far off. I am a shade off of half tank at the moment. Unfortunately I think we all know how accurately fuel consumption can be estimated based on gauge reading, but I know that I can put 26 gallons in when the light comes on. If I am on track to do around 450 miles by the time the light comes on, that’s ballpark 17mpg. That usually has me right around 300 miles at half tank. iquad-2018-07-23-04.37.15.csv

I will be filling up again in the next few days, and I will not reset the trip or average. I think I am following your explanation of the filtering, but the hand calculated MPG should be close to the average I would think. In order to keep the data useful, should I hold off on adjusting my offset? I was going to correct it after this tank.

When I parked, the truck was at 247.4 miles according to the trip set. I suspect there may be something off. I know my off set isn’t right, but with the gallon trip and the trip set on miles, the average still doesn’t work out that high. iquad-2018-07-20-03.27.44-1.csv

I have had the offset at 125% for the whole tank so far, so that wouldn’t be an issue. I assume that even at a 0 fuel command the engine is fueling at least at the idle level. But the amount of fuel that you are burning at that point probably is not significant enough to change the average. I will do a data log this evening on my drive home from work. I forgot to export the one from this morning. An app feature that would be handy for those with my kind of memory problems would be storing the last data log until the app connects to the iQuad again. I often forget to export the log after I shut down. If that log was stored locally in the app until the next start-up, I know it would be better for me. I am unsure how much storage that would demand though. It’s just frustrating to shut down, close the app, and THEN remember to export the data log.

It looks like I missed the part about setting to 100% to be able to check the offset. I have had the offset on 125%. Quick math, the gallon trip set and my odometer is in the ballpark of 20mpg right now. It looks like the MPG is coming down steadily. It is currently around 31. I will be resetting my offset to 100 and starting again. Can I get any useful information for my offset from having it set at 125% for the past week or so? I do want it to be as accurate as possible, so if I need to start over, I will. I may may be way off base, but it seems to me that the maximum mpg at coast going to 99.99mpg may be giving a false high reading on average mpg. It would seem to me that for a truck that is averaging 20mpg, 15 seconds at 99.99mpg while coasting would have a much greater positive impact on average mpg than 15 seconds at 5mpg under hard acceleration. Since the differential is so great on those two, couldn’t it be skewing the numbers high? Math was never one of my strengths though, so you will have to tell me.