Sufarry

UPDATE: I ordered a Cummins OEM Crankshaft Position Sensor. I got it installed today. Unfortunately no change. The truck is still behaving the exact same way. So I guess my journey to figure this out continues. I am starting to lose hope again. I think my next step is to buy the Quadzilla tuner again (I had it on the truck before, but it died on me and was out of warranty so I never bought another one) at the recommendation of MoparMan. He says the quadzilla has the ability to data log actual timing and compare it to commanded timing. I'd like to see what changes when I end the kill test (causing the knock to go away). Maybe that will help point me in a new direction.

Hey buddy! I don't know the sizes, but you can likely find another bolt on the truck that will fit it to help you gauge diameter and thread pitch at least. Then take that info to your local hardware store and get the right length!

Hey everyone, I’m excited to announce that I’ve officially taken on the role of Gallery Moderator here at Mopar1973Man! I’ll be working to keep the photo gallery fresh and active by featuring member trucks from all generations! To kick things off, we’re starting a Truck of the Month (TOTM) photo contest! 📸 How to Enter:Post ONE photo of your truck in this thread. All generations are welcome. One submission per member—please do not post multiple photos. Submissions are open now and will close at 11:59PM on 6/30/2025 from the time of this post. 🏆 What You Win:The winner will have their truck featured on the front page of the Mopar1973Man Gallery starting July 1st, 2025. 👥 Not a Member Yet?Join the community! It’s a great place to share your build, ask questions, and learn from fellow diesel/truck enthusiasts. Let’s see those builds—good luck!

Thank you for the opportunity! Happy to be here and be a part of this ever growing community!

I appreciate the phone call as well. Good to chat with someone that actually knows what they're talking about! I hope to update this next week with a solution! This has been an ongoing thing for years now!

Hey! Thank you for the kind words and thank you for replying! I believe you're right. I'm sure disabling the injectors causes it to temporarily not read from sensor data, therefore causing the knocking to go away. I did forget to add that I did check the tone ring - partially. I removed the crank sensor 2 days ago to inspect it again. I took a photo inside of the crank sensor hole and tried to budge it with a flat head. No movement. What I DIDN'T do is rotate the crank around to verify each tooth. I suppose I could do that this evening and see. I would like to think if it was missing a tooth that there would be a CEL for CAM/Crank sync, but who knows! When I get home I'll whip out the inspection camera and see what I see! Thank you again!

LINK TO THE VIDEO Hey everyone, sorry for the long read but please God read it and help me!! I've been dealing with a persistent and frustrating issue on my truck for years, and it's seriously driving me crazy. As a mechanic, it really eats at me that I haven’t been able to solve it. I'm absolutely racking my brain here, and I'm hoping someone can offer some insight I haven’t considered. The Problem:My truck has a terrible knock at idle that’s so harsh it literally shakes the inside of the cab. It’s loud and clearly audible, especially in person. The knock doesn’t seem to increase with RPM—it’s primarily noticeable at idle—but it does affect the exhaust note, making it sound choppy (you can hear this clearly in the video I’ll link). What Makes It Go Away (Temporarily):Here’s the strange part: If I unplug the VP44 connector and supply 12V power directly to the pump, bypassing the ECU entirely, the knock disappears completely. This made me suspect it’s related to ECU inputs or sensor feedback. Using my scan tool, I can disable ANY injector and then re-enable it. The knock then goes away for about 10 seconds before coming back. During those 10 seconds, the engine runs smooth as butter—no shake, clean exhaust note. Watch the video and you’ll see what I mean. When I cycle an injector, the knock vanishes for a moment and returns sharply—you’ll especially hear it in the exhaust. Parts I've Replaced / Things I've Checked:Here’s what I’ve done so far (this issue predates many of these replacements): Replaced VP44 with a known good used unit from a running truck Replaced crank sensor and verified wiring from ECU to sensor Replaced MAP sensor and verified wiring to ECU Installed brand-new injectors (again, issue existed before this) New alternator (unrelated, but noting for completeness) Installed AirDog Raptor and Beans Diesel sump – fuel pressure is spot on Swapped ECUs from a known good truck – no change Verified APPS wiring and voltage – originally low (~0.34V), adjusted to 0.5V as per MoparMan's advice Checked IAT sensor and verified voltage/wiring to ECU Physically checked the timing marks on the timing gears - all good there. None of these changes have made a dent in the issue. Final Thoughts:This truck is driving me insane. I know the signs are pointing to some sort of input/communication issue, but I’ve tested and replaced so much already that I’m at a loss. If anyone out there has run into something similar or has suggestions for what to check next, please let me know. I’m open to trying anything at this point. Thanks in advance! Note:I did find a guy on the 2nd gen Facebook page that had the exact same knocking sound and his issue was resolved by replacing the crank sensor. I've done this already, but he did say he replaced his with a cheap amazon one and the issue wasn't fixed, but he tried a name brand one from the part store and it went away.. I'm hesitant to try a new sensor again, but I will buy the Cummins one if y'all think this would fix it!