Greenlee

I told my brother the same exact thing, almost word for word this afternoon. He has my 99 now and is learning how to deal with diesels. I will know in the morning if he followed this advice. I'm going to copy and send to him so he can see I'm not the only one that has come up with the same conclusion. I appreciate your advice, makes me feel pretty good. I'm a little lost on this since it's been a while since I have worked on the 24v. Help me remember please, the threaded end of the tube threads directly into the female nut on the injector line, is this right or wrong. I have spent an hour or two looking at tubes to see if I could spot any noticeable difference. So in my thinking or what I remember is the tube seats into the injector at a tapered point on the injector, at the same time the O-ring seats and the threads at the other end are showing so you can thread the 3/4" or 19mm nut to the tube??????????? Is there something I am not remembering? Thank you MoparMan, I'll pass this on as well. Just as "driply" mentioned about removing the valve cover and take the hold down tab at the injector loose then push the tube in and retighten. The leak which is not high pressure but began to leak worse after the new tube was put in. I'll get more info in the morning. Hope MoparMom is doing good. Thank you I need to read things better, I agreed with "driply" on the injector seal also that I it might have to have the hold down tab untightened. But you are saying if it was leaking at the injector and tube where they connect and the O-ring is not leaking then it would simply be part of the excessive fuel returning to the tank and not showing at the high pressure line nut. If it was leaking at the injector would you notice a big difference in mileage or performance? Good advice, and I agree on the tightening, I torqued the nuts before but a couple needed a little more, so I just tightened them all the same with a little extra, it happens just like you said. Thanks

I searched the past 45 pages of articles looking before asking. 1999 Dodge Cummins 2500 with fuel leak at #5 cylinder at injection connector tube and injection line nut. The tube had a cracked O-ring so it was replaced with a new tube. On start up no leak, 1 mile down the road no leak, up on the interstate for 6 miles and it's leaking again. Retightened but still leaking. Pulled the line off to check the mating surfaces with also looked good. Still leaking, any ideas? Part 2: This is for me to understand. The tubes pops out easy, no problem getting the removal tool on the tubes. Once in place how does it stay in place and not turn when tightening? First time I changed my VP44 I had to double wrench the 3/4" or 19mm nuts to break them. Way past the recommended 26 or so ft/lbs. Does the slight taper fitting in the injector help keep the tube from turning? Just curious. Thank you for your time.

Best source of actual informative information you can find any where. You read a lot of articles and explanations on the different generations of Dodge Cummins but adding pictures to see how it is all laid out piece by piece and then understand how it all works assembled is the beginning of knowledge needed to keep them running. I appreciate all the hard work that goes into this Forum, Thank you.

This question is not for me but I am not far from having my pads changed. Someone I know is thinking of putting Ceramic pads on his truck. I used to think a middle of the road set of disc pads always worked great, not the cheapest or the most expensive, At times when things were tight the cheapest. Do ceramic work better or last longer?

Beautiful Dodge, If someone is driving your 95 it should stick out like a sore thumb. I'm in the Mobile Alabama area. If it comes my way, and I hope it doesn't, rather see this rotten thief caught, I'll be sure to let you know. I'll send this to my friend across the bay to keep an eye open for it.

For old school AC/DC Transformer with No Electronics you can't beat it. This is my third 330, very low hours since it was new. I'll bet your a certified welder that compliments all of the other great skills you have. Your AIRCO 250 Amp AC/DC High Frequency is also a excellent, and smooth as you can get welding machine. I have used the AIRCO model that you currently own and many of the Miller identical twins. I owned several of the Miller 250 amp machines with all the bells and whistles decades ago. I considered buying a pulse setup but my concern was the boards and when they fail your looking at $1,500 plus depending on which one blows. Oh, by the way, it is a beast that weighs in at 870 LBS. Better have a set of wheels on it!!!

One of the last years Miller made the 330 A/BP AC/DC High Frequency Welding Machine. Hey you ever use one of these?

Pretty Cool Mr. Programmer, and Cowboy, you might have been a government utility farmer at one time or another. The kind that have no address nor name, just a handle like, let's see here, Oh this one fits, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Cowboy???? Maybe you all are in the same company of folks that ID's don't show up about, or fingerprints for that matter!! Who knows. I'm pretty dense at times, hate to admit but it's true. I am the type that needs to be involved hands on or Video. What I have learned from this site to me is priceless. Between here and YouTube there isn't much you can't get first hand info about. The clarity comes from the finale of discussed subjects here by the knowledge of the members willing to help. The latest on my 12v transmission. It took a while for everything to sink in. NO voltage lead at all. Isolated the alternator and drove around to see how it would shift. Didn't take long and it was going back and forth between 30mph and 45mph then when you got by 45mph it smoothed out. Did it almost every time I got inside those limits with one exception, around 50mph and 55mph the OD or TC was shifting in and out. Ok, at the end of the day I hooked the 140 amp fuse link up using an 8mm socket, without my glasses and enough light it looked like Phillips head only. Thank you all for pointing that out. I continued to drive it the next day. It went crazy 3 different times. The next day it did it again briefly and now it's not doing the shifting back and forth routine at all?????????? I have continued to drive it daily a few miles at a time everyday that I could, no glitches. The only thing that has changed a little is once it makes a shift into 3rd gear between 28mph and 35mph the TC or OD (confused again) won't change until you get to 55mph. Doesn't stay consistent holding in gear but it does it with 3rd gear too, waiting to shift around 45 to 50mph range. Is it time to leave it alone or let my transmission guy figure it out? Thanks for the advice everyone.

The correct shift sequence is; 1st - 2nd - 3rd - 4th (OD), TC Lockup. If you push the "OD/OFF" button on the dash, it will lock you out of 4th but give you lockup in 3rd. So that becomes; 1st - 2nd - 3rd - TC Lockup. Forgot to ask about the test on the Alternator. Since I don't appear to have any noise leakage then it is something mechanically somewhere in the shift sequence that is failing? Way past my basic Rainman mentality. All of you are pretty darn smart and I enjoy seeing the conversations and subjects being discussed. When you say controller are you talking about building your own PCM computer for the transmission? I'm not going to go any futher with all of this because I don't know anything about the subject being discussed. One thing, when did the computer controlled 47re come to life and would it make any difference to swap out an old school non-computerized transmission in place of what I have? any suggestions on what to check next after eliminating AC voltage noise leaks? Are you a programmer Cowboy and what about MExxxx9, does he also program or am I making the controller too complicated?

This all a learning curve for me. The number of times I have turned the OD/OFF and never given consideration that it would change the order of shifting. One more question on this please, Does the Converter Lockup always fall at the end of the shifting sequence? I have looked at articles where a manual Lockup toggle switch is installed. Is this a way to Lockup the converter after shifting to 2nd or ahead of 4th? On the 47re can you explain 4th gear? What I mean is it a mechanical gear like 1st 2nd 3rd or electrical same as the Torque Converter. What happens at lockup and how does the switch work at or inside the Converter? Thanks Cowboy Forgot to ask about the test on the Alternator. Since I don't appear to have any noise leakage then it is something mechanically somewhere in the shift sequence that is failing?

I was all wrong on the values I submitted on voltage from the batteries while being isolated. The passenger battery showed 13.13 DC volts and the drivers side battery showed 13.14 DC volts. The reading for AC volts was identical on each side with the engine running, 0.001 AC volts. I bought a new set of batteries and had them installed when I bought my 12 valve. No need to change any filters for another 5K miles. The more I have driven the better increase in fuel mileage. Prior to the hick-up with the shifting on my last fill up I averaged 21.7 mpg. With the hick-up it has dropped down to 17.7 mpg. I don't know the shift sequence after reading several articles, one Cummins owner said his went from 1, 2, 3, TC-Lock, OD. Another Cummins owner said the opposite going 1 2 3 OD TC-Lock. Marice is going to take a ride and let me show him the shift points it's going back and forth in. If you drive slowly and reach 35mph it will begin, especially up any grade. Returns to normal after passing 45mph. If you drive a little faster but not crazy in acceleration it will shift in and out one quick time maybe 8 out of 10 times. I'll update when I can.

Quote: CMS You are looking for AC, not DC. The AC setting should show a lot smaller than 14v. I was checking both but did not have the alternator isolated. I will double check the two Phillips Head and see if they are a 1/4" nut. I don't know how I missed it if they are. I was checking AC voltage to see what it showed on the meter when running. Drivers Side was 4.3 to 4.5 and the drivers side battery showed 1.4 to 1.5 AC voltage but I'm sure it doesn't mean anything. It's no wonder the selling price is tripled after it's fixed. In the morning I'm getting those Phillips Head Screws out and drive it. Measure the AC voltage and go from there. Thanks again CMS and Dripley

Just to show you I'm in left field on this I never put 2 and 2 together on why it's called a TV cable. I thought to my self how in the world can a TV cable help it **** instead of using a cable like the accelerator cable. Man O Man, I need to find the name of the plant I'm on and get a ticket home. I don't get what to do check for on AC with a multi meter. I found my Fluke and it's a 77 model Fluke77. I need more explanation on checking the 0.01 from the batteries. Also I looked at the 140 amp fuse link for the alternator, it looks like it's held down by two Phillips Head Screws but they are so tight I can't break them loose. My muscles are extremely week from nerve damage but I can't believe they are that tight unless they have lock tight or some thread lock on them. Does the fuse link come out any other way? I can't seem to find anything using the search field. What happened to all the help aids for the threads, following searching within the post you are going to read? I haven't got a single thing done today trying to find simple explanations or diagrams. Maybe I need to give it a rest until they find a donor brain that matches mine!!!!!!!!!! When ever the magic moment hits and I get the alternator isolated do I check for AC stray voltage right off the batteries when running? Are there other positive and negative connections that I should be looking at? Of course my batteries are putting out 14.7 or 14.8 volts when running. I don't remember what it was but within .010 difference from left side to right side. What if I removed the two nuts for the positive cable and ground attached to the backside of the 140 amp alt. fuse link, will that work? I can see why folks have $4,000.00 or more in a built transmission with the cost of parts and components to beef it up. I thought a new Torque Converter would help until I saw the prices, as much or more that pressure plates, clutches, and the rest of the package.

Great article Hammer. Your explanations were easy to follow. It's sad to see crooks in business stealing from folks that don't know better. I'm not one to cause issues but I don't run from them either, can't run that fast, In the old days before there was a lawyer on every corner you could have pulled this guy in the back or out to the rock pile and whip him like his father should have. Not taking away from anything you pointing out, where did you find a book or reference on the 47re and the pressures, understanding the hydraulic system and the flow and so on.?? I'm trying to learn as much as I can about the transmission too, if it wasn't for all the great members of this forum that take the time to read and answer back with suggestions I wouldn't be learning anything about my truck and how to maintain it. Great report Hammer, God bless all of you.

I'm going to have to look the TV cable up but from what you are describing it sounds like This is where I dozed off and didn't finish, sorry. I didn't know I had stopped until I went up to check all the conversations. It makes sense what you are saying. The O/D and lockup both work off current???that works a switch or switches. I don't think I have ever learned much about converters with the exception to a stall converter. I should add this to my bucket list before it's too late lol. I always thought shift points changed according to amount of fluid pressure from the pump while accelerating, if so something is not adding up how no matter how it is driven it hits 3rd at 28mph, that's a little low to me. I found the accelerator cable and below it must be the TV cable. I couldn't see full movement, not enough light. I know I'm long winded and take the longest path to explain anything but this does help me understand what it takes to have a reliable automatic. In the same sense you can spend thousands on a manual with clutch, pressure plate and so one including input and output shaft which I'm not positive if both or just one that is changed out. Maybe this is ignorant to ask but what is the difficulty building a good transmission? People are trained and certified rebuilding companies builds thousands every year, they have all the tools, test stands, and training to put a well built, reliable transmission out for the customers. Is there something going on from the factory that the re-builders have never learned? Engines can be built all day long and when rebuilt continue to give great service. So why do automatics fail all the time even when supposedly built by an expert? trying to isolate the alternator in the morning to see the results you told me about. Thanks for the info, I'll give you a report of what happened and how it shifts or doesn't shift with it not connected.

Great link to the transmission build and what you should do. It's still shifting back and forth not as bad as before and I know where it does it all the time. I called Marice yesterday and told him how it's shifting. I also suggested I drive it around for several more days to pin it down so I could show him what's going on. I need some input on shift points. Driving it did help out. The only time I can get it to mess up is at low speeds. From a dead stop going slow it shifts from 1st to 2nd somewhere around 10 to12 mph. 3rd shifts at 18 to 19 mph every time. You can floor it from a dead stop and it shifts at these same points every time fast or slow. When I drive it slow and get past 30 mph it starts shifting back and forth between O/D and Lockout. Once I hit 43 it stops shifting this way. But going slow and after shifting to 3rd it picks up speed but below driving it hard, and won't shift to O/D until 55 to 60 mph. Same thing if you floor it. Is this normal for this transmission being hooked up to a diesel? Is this how your truck(s) shift out? And Dripley, what should I be looking for if I disconnect the alternator and drive it. Will it still get voltage to the transmission from the batteries only? Should it **** at different points with the alternator disconnected? I guess i need to look at a manual that would tell me how every thing electrically works on the transmission to better understand how it ties together. Can't help it if I sound like a rattling idiot on this, I don't know anything about transmissions, never did except it was expensive in my younger days when I was tearing up everything. Are there any books that tell you how to tear the transmission down in detail and reassemble? Believe me when I say I am completely in the dark on transmissions. one other point, when you turn O/D off, it still shifts into 3rd around 18mph and holds it up to any speed you want to drive. It sounds like a 1968 Z28 4-Speed with 4.56 gears wound up so tight that 45mph is tops. Any thing you can share is welcomed.

Last night I couldn't remember sending unit or the A/C system parts that were mentioned. You all were right on the money with this. I think Marice did a better job than I would because he already knows where all the hook ups are. When I take off extremely slow it shifts into 2nd at about 15mph and 3rd at about 25mph and OD around 35 which is not close before. Normal driving the range is farther apart and lock-out about 50mph. It all depends on how hard you are pushing the pedal. The shifts are hardly noticeable very fast and smooth. I wish I had another truck to compare it to. I am not sure what is the normal shift range is. I am thinking there could be a short in the wires between the fuel gauge and plugin on the tank. I can't imagine a brand new sending unit is sticking from the way it was working prior to being stuck on full. The gauge drops to empty (MT) with the key off and to full with it on. It's not a big deal as much as convenient to know when to fill up. I'll keep looking at miles between fill ups until I can trust the gauge again once fixed. I'll post the cure for the gauge and results of driving for a few days with the transmission. I have looked at shift kits so I can find out exactly what type was used. Should the Torque Converter be replaced with an after market? what kind of difference would it make on the transmission as far as what kind of HP it could handle if it changes at all? I guess what I am trying to ask is there any benefit to replace the Torque Converter because it now has a shift kit?

A little update, picked my truck up today and Marice (The Owner) told me to drive it around for a few days to see if it would jump between gears like it was doing. If no issues then bring me $65 and we are good. I also got some history on what was done to the truck while he owned it. Before I bring that up I want to say it was running great and was nothing like it was before. Marice said he cleaned every connection, ground that had anything to do with the electrical side of the transmission. No problems so far driving it, shifts great and drives great. Marice built the transmission 4 years ago, everything is stock except for a shift kit and I'm not sure what that would involve. He also stated the torque converter was stock and it had been driven 25K when he sold it to me. Prior to me buying the truck he had the dash pulled, new A/C compressor and new back to the heater core under the dash. New water pump, brakes, good set of tires, water pump, top radiator hose, and replaced the fuel and oil filter with a oil change. There was a couple of other items that I can't remember but will write it all down when I go back to pay him. I need to put a log together on mileage and parts that were replaced when I see him again. I guess there was more to the deal than he told me about when I bought it. A lot of bases have already been covered that I don't have to worry with to my surprise. I had even considered selling it to pick one out that was cosmetically in better shape and go back to the 5 speed. I believe the transmission was acting up since I took it over because it is totally different now. He said it sat for months at a time until he needed to pull his RV around and it's taken 4 years to put the low amount of miles on it. Marice said it needed the connectors cleaned and ground with some connections to the computer. I feel like I got off pretty good on this one and I feel better about driving the truck as well. I mentioned the fuel gauge didn't work and he told me they had put a brand new float assembly in the tank. I was getting ready to get some help lined up and drop the tank to do the same thing. Well this is enough to think about right now, I'm going to drive it and see how it does.

Hey fellows, I was caught up with appointments so it took a little longer to respond. I called my transmission builder to get some history on the transmission. He drove that truck for several years putting about 50K on it. Said it was built right to pull, besides being a daily driven truck it towed his RV part time as well. He ask me to bring it to him before I got into it and let him take a look. When I get all the details I'll write them down and post it. Thanks for all the suggestions, I just found out there is a computer for the transmission....I had no idea on the 12v, thought it was old school like the engine. I got a couple of more questions for tomorrow, I might have to start a new post for the subject I have, hope you all have a blessed weekend.

Hey everyone I appreciate all the help and suggestions. I had another doctors appointment across the bay from where I live so I can give you a more accurate description of what the transmission is doing. At low speeds of 25 to 45 in OD it would shift back and forth, back and forth what seemed like O/D to Lock-Out. I thought it was going to kill it so I took it out of O/D and it felt like it was shifting back in forth between 3rd and Lock-Out. It really acted out on any small grade I was driving up. At several points it did good with the cruise control on and set. Didn't shift nearly as much and didn't shift at all driving normal speeds from 60 mph to 80 mph. For me driving home today the interstate was better than city or county roads with posted slower speed limits. My radiator temperature didn't change any. I also checked the fluid level and it was correct. If I removed a fuse to isolate the alternator like suggested it wouldn't shift into O/D or Lock-Out, right? Or what should I look for? And on the TPS which I know nothing about, well I guess I could go to the links you left me to find out. I have new injectors, DVs, and the AFC Live II with new gauges. I didn't get any of it installed yet and now I'm wondering if the truck is worth it or not. I'm probably over thinking things now because of the transmission acting up. I'll do my best to check it out like you and Dripley suggested. I'm going to go look at the link you left me CMS, and thank you for the great offer on the injectors. It starts off rough blowing black and grey smoke but after a couple of minutes it idles fine, it just blows black and grey smoke in a haze when accelerating. I hate to waste these new injectors on this truck and I guess I don't want poor more money into this 12v like the 24v and not be able to recoup it. That's why I'm a little conservative right now. it's late for me so I'll get back on tomorrow.

I'll have to get some pictures of my little baby tomorrow and post them for you. I think I mentioned before that I went to automatic on my 12v for various reasons that I am sorry for bringing up all the time. One thing about this life that I always share is you can't change one Iota of the past but you can make everyday count that you are dealing with to be a victory when you look back the next time. I'm in that boat now...the past is the past so why bring it up? A day with a loved one, your spouse, one of your kids, or grand-kids, or friends that are loyal to you is again worth everything especially when you look back, these are the little things you don't want to ever change in the past. Amen. Back to the automatic in my 12v, it's going in and out of lock out or OD every time I go up a slight grade completely unloaded and I have lost weight so don't blame me lol. The guy I bought it from has a transmission shop and built this one beefed up more than a stock transmission. Fluid level is good, he told me regardless of what anybody has told me about checking the fluid level only check it running with the emergency brake on in Drive. Could it be something simple like a filter change or band adjustments? Or should I start looking for a replacement or a change over back to a NV4500? I knew if this happened I would be down for a while until I could budget the funds for it. My truck needs paint to be in better shape. The engine smokes pretty good starting up cold or if I wait a few days before I go anywhere. I have to confess that I miss my 24v now that I understand a little more why the VP44 fails. I Don't Believe a re-builder can be in the same class as Bosch when they were new. I do believe if you buy a 24v and the in tank pump has been replaced with an after market set up under or on the frame side rails running the correct pressure to keep it alive will go the miles for you and give you good dependable service. In the mean time I need to figure this one out. An automatic is great for me but I would rather endure some difficulty with a 5 Speed that will last than to start going through repairs on a automatic that needs to be built in order to last. Any Suggestions????????????????

Yes I Have...it is a great machine. Years ago and I don't know the complete story but maybe I will investigate a little but Miller and Airco were the same except for the paint color. I guess in the long run Airco was bought out or blended in with Miller, who owns the majority of names still selling welding equipment. You have a nice machine CMS, I thought it would be a little, bitty, machine held together with bailing wire or something. Clean that baby up and get your cables rolled up nice and tight and a 10 perimeter painted with a good gloss 2 part paint of any design you think would scare all others away.

I seem to always start out on the wrong foot when it comes to buying something. It always works out in the long run thank God, His mercy is all I have at times. When I first saw the Miller 330 A/BP I knew it was going to be mine. Personally I have owned about around 12 to 14 machines, all top of the line except for the first electric AC. This is one field that I am an expert in. No I have welded everything but I have welded more than most will every get a chance to put their hands on in my lifetime. Am I the best in the land, absolutely not. I try to be good at what I know and how hard I have applied it to my work. I listen to anyone in the business, young or old, that has knowledge to share and I am thankful for it. Never stop trying to learn, age has nothing to do with it. If I can ever be of assistance Cowboy let me know, you have helped me out plenty already. Your camera buying is the way I need to go, that's a great way to find what you want cheap but still does a good job. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks? Thanks again, I looked at the links on the fuel tanks but I thought you sent me another on the transmission, maybe I'm mistaken.

Well Cowboy you always seem to have just the right link(s) for an old Diesel Head Retired like me. I looked at both links. Both are good ways to correct the issue and if they don't something else will show up. The only thing I hate about the last link is dropping the tank which I have done before with the help of a friend. It was half full at the time. I had just replaced the VP44, didn't know anything about a Cummins engine. Pretty big task to take on a newbie, but guess what? All the information I needed was on this Forum including a video. I also discovered that the Diesel Part/Repair business was going full blast and also had plenty of videos too. Found that information as well right here because when you don't know a darn thing about what your working on you look and use any key words to begin on. So I was destined to be successful from the get go. So, support this Forum with yearly dues, and then what ever I can each month. Cummins Forum is the other site I use but I don't remember the amount that was required to be a paying member. I think you would agree with me that out of all the Diesel Forums you can find, Mopar1973Man.com is more family orientated. These folks call and check on their members from time to time and leave the bragging rights at home, it makes the learning better and the terminology starts to hit home. I know that is strange coming from a member that has NO FRIENDS to be found listed, I have to laugh at that with the rest of the pack lol. I'm honestly still learning how to navigate throughout the Forum. After the tank was dropped and the old electric motor was removed I engineered what I needed in order to make it all work and no more dropping fuel tanks. I didn't know about the critical fuel pressure setting so it was a blessing I didn't drive more than 40 miles before it completely failed which forced me to put the Raptor in place on the block. I never put a temporary fuel pressure gauge in place to check the fuel pressure. I assumed it would be great and no worries with the Raptor in place. I was shocked when I finally put a pressure gauge on the top of the fuel filter, 12 PSI, Yikes. Now it was time to stop calling my stupid over and over again and turn the pressure using a 9/16 open end wrench and a long flat blade screwdriver. A simple task. I learned a big lesson on that one. It hopefully didn't do any damage for the little time I ran it that way 35K miles back. I know I'm a little long winded but I have been sitting around for a long time and needed some suggestions and just like anyone else I go to the Forum. Hey I'll share with you for a moment and tell you what I want to start getting involved with. I bought a new/old welding machine before Christmas. A Miller 330 A/BP, AC DC High Frequency Welding Machine. I knew it was mine when I laid eyes on it. 1983 machine that looks new and has barely been used. What I am saying is I want to make some videos to post on You Tube about welding. Getting started and learning how the real world is, not a clean piece of steel. I want to start taking pictures of everything I do working on my truck, I have a camera for that but I don't have a Camcorder nor do I know what to look for that won't break the bank or my back. I know we must have members that know how to do all of this and what works and what doesn't, so throw some suggestions at me God Bless, Paul Greenlee