socal

update . the problem went away i stuck the key in and out 4 or 5 times turned it on and the wts light came on it does take a little longer to shut off but i have no problems since. thanks for your help guys

so heres a update turns out the problem wasn't my ecm or crank sensor. installed a timbo apps on my truck when i first got it. and when i set the idle screw i never put some loctite so after awhile it threaded in more and was making it idle high in park if i remember i think the timbo instructions dont tell you to put some loctite on the screw. such a simple thing to think of first to check on a old carb engine but when you think of engine that has a ecm and all that electrical **** its the last thing i thought of. hope this helps another member out.

thanks guys . i think im gonna go with the murray from o'reilly its a 2 row and comes with lifetime warrenty. i travel back and forth from ca to az so if it does give me grief i know there is a o'reilly in every town. there was a place making copper ones but after searching for them i found out they went under

Well I have leak on my drivers side tank. Who makes a good radiator. Is the original a 2 row or 3

I tried moving the key in the ignition and the WTS light turned on. Gonna try replacing the switch before I move to the ecm

are you saying you had the same WTS problem and using the spare key stopped it?

I replaced the alternator already with a new not a rebuilt one some time ago when I was getting the jumping back and forth problem with the trans. And no huck ups since then. If it's the ecm. Can I send in a different one or does it have to be the one off my truck . I just picked up another 24 v with its ecm on it. I would rather send it in to get rebuilt. I also get a random check engine light. I use my obd which Inova and I get no codes in the system

im starting to get this problem and when it doesnt turn on an cycle its hard to start even if the engine is warm. its kinda like when i turn the key on its not turning on the power to it cause if i turn it off and turn it on then it will click on or if i bump start it and turn the key off then turn it on the WTS light turns on and as soon as it turn off the it fires right up. i can pull my ignition key out while the truck is running, it came that way when i bought it used. do you think the ignition switch needs to be replaced or a fuse or relay?

I changed the crank sensor back to the old one and it still shoots up to 2100 rpm. So I would say it's not the sensor

Alright thanks. I just tried starting it and now the wts light wont come on. And I get a check engine light. But no codes My truck is a 1999 so it would be the crank sensor? Is the cam sensor behind the vp pump? I remember changing a sensor there when I first bought it

Can you tell me what exactly does the cam sensor and crank sensor do?

well its been awhile since i have had to come on her fro help. but here i am. i noticed about a month ago my truck was idling a little high every now and then when i would have it in park. yesterday it got worse. i came to a stop on the off ramp and it liked loped. it went from 700 down to like 300 rpm a couple times at stop. i looked at my fuel pressure gauge and it was steady so it was getting fuel . i put it in N and it was idling at 900 to 1000. i drove to my bank and tried resetting my throttle by turning it the engine off and turning the key back on and pushing the gas peddle down slow and letting it back up slow. it didn't lope anymore but it was still idling at 1000 rpm in park . i put it in drive and it would show 700 on rpm. i did some searching last night and most part i kept seeing its a bad crank sensor that is the cause. i replaced it about 30 thousand miles ago with a napa one. this morning i went to cummins to buy a new one and i noticed it was idling high to the point while driving it was like i had cruise control on . and when i came to a stop it was like i had one foot on the brake and the other foot on the gas peddle still giving it a little gas. i let the engine cool down and i washed the engine before i started changing the sensor. i pulled the old one out and installed the new one from cummins. got to start it and now it goes strait to 2100 rpms and it wont come down . i dont get any check engine light i hooked up my scanner and theres no codes. im gonna try putting the old sensor back in tomorrow to see if it drops the rpm so i can move it. any ideals what is the problem? i replaced the cam sensor around the same time i replaced the old crank sensor. i replaced the sensor on the trans also some time back. i started getting the tranny shift back and forth problem some time back and i replaced the alternator with a brand new one and that took care of that problem. the engine has been rebuilt about 20 thousand miles ago, i replaced the vp pump and lift pump and the apps sensor around the same time also. as a matter a fact the fass pump died just before the warranty ended and fass gave me a new that was about 2,000 miles ago. could it be my ecm taking a dump?

Well I've been lucky but now I think my luck is running out. The last time I had a problem I just charged up the batteries and cleaned the connections and it quit but now it doesn't want to leave this time. I haven't done the test yet. Like remove fuse or volt test. I am looking to order a brand new alternator not refurb. Can I use a denso if I have a Bosch . Also when I start it the gauge sits between 10 and 14 then slowly goes up to 14.

thanks i'll do that . i changed the sensor today and the old one had grey stuff on the tip that looked like metal dust or shaving like on a magnet.

i had a weird one today. i came down the off ramp and made my stop. went to take off and as i am taking off truck died. rolled to a stop and put it in park and it fired right back up but i got a CIL and the code was PO720 which is output shaft speed sensor could it cause it to die like that . it sucked cause i had on coming traffic as it died .

no i didnt get the injectors pop tested they are brand new from bosch. not rebuilts so i am just gonna run them. the mod vb is next after i take care of the oil leaks

well here is a update. the engine runs like a champ ! i do have a front main seal leak, my fault should of took my time. and my vacuum pump has a leak so i have to pull it and put a new seal in it again, already rebuilt it before i did the engine. i ended up putting a goreand TC in at the same time. pretty pricey but it works great. was heading to tucson, az lat week and was checking to see if a spare dually rim i had fit and ended up finding out my Driver side hub bearing is worn out so now i have to replace it. just got a timkin from rockauto for 189 with abs so i will change tomorrow. just wanted to say thanks for helping me guys.

i have a quick question. before i install my injectors do you think i should have them pop tested? there brand new bosch rv injectors with no more then a thousand miles on them. and can you tell me how many quarts of tranny fluid it takes to fill up a TQ ?

yeah i lucked out. the cam and crank were in great condition. so no work there. i bought complete cummins so all new bearings even if they didn't need them. would of been cheaper if i went aftermarket. only had to replace one piston though. and if i would of assembled it it would of saved me $700 too

well my engine is finally done. gonna try to pick it up tomorrow. he had to get a engine done before mine. i went ahead and ordered the Goerend TQ it came with a limited life time warranty so far i'm into this engine $2,800 to get it rebuilt, parts and labor. i still have to order a rebuild kit for the turbo. and a pyrometer gauge. later on i'll do VB swap, pretty much tapped out. thanks for your help guys and i will keep you posted.

well i went to the shop today he ran down everything to me that he was gonna do and i met his guy who does the assembly i seen a engine block that he was working on and he looks like he knows all the ins and outs so that put my worry's at ease. turns out the owner does the head work and he has this old timer come in who does all his assembly work, kinda of retired part timer. pretty picky guy too, compared to some other shops i seen. the owner said he is gonna check the head and see how much was shaved and the assembly guy was gonna do the same on the block, to see if he needed to really go 20 over or 10. the old head gasket was ,20 over already. i was kinda worried he was just gonna slap it together cause i never used him before. thanks for all the info guys

heres something to throw at you guys to see what you think. is there such a thing as a good machine shop that is not as good for putting a engine together as they are for doing the machine work? the reason i ask is i met a guy once who was a insurance agent. he worked for a auto parts store when he was a young man doing the machine work. he told me he was a good machinest but he never put the engines together, another guy did it.i always thought how the hell can that be. then when i was looking for a machine shop to do this engine i went to a shop and talked to the guy he said he could do all the machine work. then i asked how much to assemble it he said he just does the machine work his partner does the assembly. that kinda through me for a loop cause i always thought a good machinest should be able to assemble a good motor. but the more i read my dodge shop manual and read on here it seems that there is a lot to know and do rather then just put it together.

is it true you loose compression and HP when you use a thicker head gasket.

that's just it i don't know how much has been shaved already is there a way to check to see if there will still be proper clearance with a standard head gasket ?

well i finally got time to go to cummins and get everything i needed. total cost was $1,200 and some change. would of been close to $1400 but i joined their power club and save 10% . talked to the machinist today and he finished up the engine that was before me so he's gonna get back on mine tomorrow. as for seeing the blow-by. if i drove for a long period of time say over 70 i would check my front suspension and it would be dripping with oil and i would see it on my rear end and all over the driver side of the engine. and if i pulled my dump trailer with a load i would see oil spots on my tailgate at the bottom. every time i wash my truck i would degrease my chassi. and thats when i noticed if i kept it under 70 say 65 my chassi wasnt dripping as bad and now oily film on my rear end. it was all coming from my tappet cover. i had replaced it hoping it would quit leaking but it just blew it off the cover at the top. now for the turbo part he to said to rebuild it just like you guys. he told me he had rebuilt one for his ford and thats how the conversation got started on my oil film in the cooler tube. i wanted to ask you guys what kind of head gasket you use from cummins when you need it over sized, say 10 over? the cummins guy could not find one for my year and said i would have to go off another serial # to get one i wanted. or should i just go with a aftermarket