Duwammer

Well, when it rains it pours I guess. After almost a week of still having the same coolant smell that I took the truck to the 1st place for. I took the truck to the dodge dealer. Told them the same thing. I smell coolant inside and outside the truck, and it's not fogging the windows up. Their diagnostics was a leaking freeze plug. They say 4 hours to fix it. Something about having to drop the trans cooler. They couldn't even get a replacement plug until next week. Apparently coming directly from Cummins. The only good thing so far is that I can still drive it hunting.

Thanks for all the replies My daily driver is a 2014 Chevy Cruse. Having a 4wd truck in the winter to drive is a nice option. But I seriously don't remember the weather being that bad that I may only need to drive it a hand full of times each winter. I need it to haul some wood, haul the trailer to deer camp, and a few other times a year. Unfortunately I can't be without one. I don't mind working on some repairs but, sometimes I just find it easier to drop it off and pick it up fixed. I put new tires on it in Oct 2013 I think I've got 8000 miles on it since then. It's not like I'm driving it every day and wearing it out. So, with me not putting hardly any miles on it makes it somewhat harder to swallow having these trouble issues with it. Anyway, I dropped the truck off at the radiator shop and picked it up Friday $690

I bought this truck from my brother in 2007 with 80,000 miles on it. It now has 138,500 It seems like lately every time I turn around I'm putting money into this truck. I use it mainly during hunting season and a handful of times throughout the year after that. I've flushed the radiator and changed the coolant twice while I've owned it. I haven't had it checked out yet but I have a coolant smell coming from it. I'm guessing it's the heater core so I called the dealer, OEM parts $950 and a local radiator shop unknown parts $750 It's got rust from living here in Michigan and I was thinking about getting rid of it 2 years ago but I was told the steering wheel had some play and was off center a little. I didn't think it was bad but took it to the dealer and had it checked out and fixed. new steering box, steering damper, and track bar. That cost me almost $1000 I went from the service area to the sales area and they offered me $9500 for it and I didn't even need to buy from them Now a coolant smell and probably another $1000 and I'm gonna need it for hunting soon. I'm bummed. Damn I wish I would have sold it when I had the chance......

Ok, if I disconnect all the lines from the calipers and pump the brake pedal to empty the reservoir. It's not going to hurt anything by running it dry is it.

I don't regularly check my brakes out because to be honest, I don't put hardly any miles on my truck. I rotate my tires every 5000 miles yet I’ve only put 4000 miles on it in the last 2 years. I drive it basically only during the fall for hunting season and if it snows bad during the winter. 2 weeks ago a stop light changed and when I hit the brakes the antilock kicked in. I could tell something was wrong immediately. When I got home I found that the front rotor broke apart. It had rusted through at vents. After fixing that a few days later I could hear a squeak coming from the rear brakes. I took those apart yesterday. The caliper side has full pad wear. Yet the backside has only a spot with about 1/2 inch wear. Why such different in wear on the backside. Also is the drum portion simply for the emergency brake only.

That worked........ Thanks a ton I really appreciate it.

Ok, the other day I changed the oil and filter and every other oil change I change the fuel filter. This time I notice a litte dirt inside the housing so I drain the housing and clean out the dirt. It was cold out so I left the fuel bowl empty. In the past I've just filled it up to the top of fuel stem and rolled the key a couple of times and it would start. I forgot to fill the fuel bowl back up today and just rolled the key, and now it won't start. Pulled the filter and the bowl has fuel but it won't fire. I seen an article on here before about loosening fuel lines in a certain order but cannot find it. A little help would be appreciated.........

In 9/2012 my tail pipe rusted out so I had a new tailpipe put on. Now the muffler has rusted out in the front where the resonator connects. The the muffler going in is 4" and coming out is 3"My truck is completely stock and I've only put 4000 miles on it in since 10/2011 So my questions are.What if any advantage is their to delete the muffler and just go 4" from the resonator back.What if any advantage is their to delete the muffler and neck down from 4" at the resonator to 3" that is the stock size of the tailpipe.The muffler shop wants around $250 for the new muffler. Money isn't really the issue here. It's just the fact that I really don't drive the truck that much.

Took a run up to deer camp today and when I slowed down my truck sounded like a bunch of tree frogs chirping.I popped the hood but couldn't really tell where the noise was coming from. When I left a few hours later and the truck had cooled down it sounded normal.When I turned down my road it was chirping again, must just be when it heats up it chirps.After it cooled down at home I took the belt off and checked everything out. Everything seemed tight and felt good when spinning it around except the water pump.It doesn't leak nor am I loosing fluid but it has a little "wiggle" to it when moving it up or down. When you spin it doesn't have any drag or noise to it.What do you think a bad water pump.

Before I did the puke bottle conversion I would wipe clean my fan blades when I did an oil change.In 9/2010 with 118900 miles on my truck I noticed the fan had a wobble to it, upon further inspection I noticed that most of the fan blades had about 1/4 inch cracks where the blade met the hub.I replaced the fan with a only available at the Dodge dealer one for $87.03 The bearing from a local bearing company for $79.31 the Dodge dealer wanted $240.00 Not one time do I remember hearing any noise from the fan because of the bad bearing. Just very glad the thing didn't come apart while driving.

If the tail pipe is 3" I'm wondering then why the 4" tip.

My tailpipe is rusted out. So I crawl under the truck to check it out closer and see that the pipe is 4" out of the resonator going into the muffler then going out of the muffler it's back down to 3" where it connects to the tip. Then the tip is 4" at the end.Is this right. Why didn't they just make it 4" out the back of the muffler and be done with it.

I'm wondering where did you get your inside / outside temp gauge. Could use one in my truck.Also where did you run the probe to so that you get an accurate reading.

My Dell monitor went black today. If I shut it down and re start it the short cut icons show up for about 3 seconds and then the screen goes black again.Is it fixable or time for a new one.................

Forgot to say that I "DID" look the codes up and knew what they were.I was more wondering why I couldn't erase them as I have used the Superchip to do this before.I guess I'll have to stop somewhere and get erased.Thanks...............

Well………….I hadn’t drove my truck in over a month so yesterday I thought I would head up to my hunting spot and check it out. I was going to back in so I wouldn’t have to slow down too much when leaving. The snow was pretty piled up at the road bank and looked a little deep in the parking spot so I gave it a little extra to get all the way in. Now I’ve got the following codes that I think are a result of me throwing snow to get the truck parked. I rolled the key 3 times to get them. 1693, 0500, 0234 I have Superchip controller but I keep the truck in “STOCK” mode all the time. The Superchip says I only have 1 DTC the 0234 I tried to clear the code / codes with the Superchip but all I get is an error and they don’t clear. I’ve used it before and cleared codes. So why can’t I now. Any ideas

Well..................Flagmanruss was right.I just pulled the truck in the garage to work on it and thought I'll crank it up (the blower) one more time before I start pulling it apart.I sounded like acorns fly around inside. So I drop the blower motor and sure enough 3 pieces of acorn stuck in between the fins on the squirrel cage and 17 whole ones sitting inside.It must have been the pieces of acorn in the fins originally because it just sounded out of balance. Must be a whole family dumping them in since.The truck used to be a garage ornament but I bought a new gas economy work car in May so now it sits outside. Didn't drive it for 5 months until hunting season. Now I gotta keep the dang mice out of it..................

Hopped in the truck to go hunting tonight cranked the blower up on high and just about crapped. This thing vibrated so bad I thought the dash was going to come apart.Everything sounds ok on the lower two speeds but when I put it on the third or fourth speeds I think I need safety glasses and a helmet.

I figured it would cost more than it's worth to hassle with...............Thanks

The LED readout on the radio stays lit only sometimes. If I push the LED screen it sometimes stays lit or if I hit the dash/radio with my hand it stays on for a pretty good time before it goes off again.It's kinda annoying. Anyone have this trouble with before.

Well.......If I use the ground pin on the plug I get no voltage at all at any pin. If I ground to the hitch frame I've got voltage at all pins except the one that should be power.So I'm pretty sure that it's truck related.Thanks for the help.

I borrowed my brothers enclosed trailer and all the lights fine work except the interior lights.He says they worked the last time he used it. I'm going to try and check it out in the daylight so I haven't really dug into it yet.Any ideas...............

Thanks, I guess I'll have to check it out.

Does anyone have any idea if the rims off a 2010 3500 1 ton will fit my 2002 2500 3/4 ton without any problems.

Ok it’s getting to be that time of the year again (COLD) and It won't be long before it's snowing and blowing. So…………. can someone fill me in. Apparently Prowelder has 2 versions of the High Idle Fooler. The Original High Idle Fooler and now the High Idle/MPG Fooler. What’s the difference?