Duwammer

dripley,My pads still look like new. The left caliper was sticking and left rotor metal on the pads for that side.If not for the caliper I wouldn't need need a new rotor,caliper, and pads. That's the luxury of owning something when chit happens and a $150 later.

Well, I just checked my records and I've only got 13,500 (11/12/09) on my last brake job.New left rotorTurn right rotorNew padsNew synthetic fluidNew right caliperSo......it looks like I'll end up with 1 new rotor and hopefully just turn the other and a new caliper and new pads.I guess I'll have to check into the rebuild kit for the calipers but not this time, I need it up and running by Monday.

Ok, the truck pulled hard to the left twice in a 2 week period. I pulled the drivers side caliper today and it has rotor metal on the pads and the rotor is slightly screwed because of it. So apparently the caliper was sticking. I may need a new rotor but not sure yet. It's possible a place in town can just turn the rotor.I can get new ones for $65 plus new pads.So........my question is what do you do about the passenger side. I've already pulled the caliper and rotor and all looks well on this side.

Well, I ran up to the local station (2 mi) to fill the truck up last night. It was 23* I left the truck running and it high Idled while I was filling it up. It was nice to have a warmer ride home.Not sure about the brake switch, but I did check the NAPA site and it's only $11 if I need to change it out.I'm pretty sure all other conditions are being met.I'm going to monitor the auto starter / manual starting of the truck and see if it differs. This is the 3rd starter I've had put on by the same place, but the first diesel so it's possible that's a problem. But they are very knowledgeable and have been in business for many many years.Now that I know the high Idle is enabled for sure I just need to talk the wife into a "fooler" I'm telling her it would be sooooo much better when she's driving it when it's cold outside.

Well, when the high Idle was "first" enabled by the dealer it seemed like it came on with in a couple of minutes.Now, the "second" time high Idle was enabled by the dealer I've let the truck run 5 to 10 minutes (remote start) and manual start before leaving work and nothing. This is why I figured that the high Idle wasn't possibly "turned on" properly by the dealer.I guess I'm going to decide about putting a "fooler" on it I think.My next question is, with the "fooler" can you leave the switches on after shutting the truck down and use a remote starter and have the high Idle kick in when started. Or do you need to start the truck first then turn the "fooler" switches on.Thanks again guys

OK, I’m totally confused now. I had decided to call the Dealer today and see about taking my truck back for them to make sure that the high Idle had indeed been turned on properly. The wife called me last night to tell me that when leaving her friends house she went out to get in the truck and the high Idle was working. I had her leave the truck outside last night. When I got home this morning I tried it again it was 8* outside. Once again nothing it wouldn’t high Idle again. I don’t get it. At least now I know that it is enabled (turned on) properly from the Dealer. So now I’m wondering if the truck will not high Idle properly on its own now……. how in the heck would the high Idle "fooler" make it work. I hope that I’m not beating you guys to death on this.

Ok, It's cold enough here in Michigan, it's currently 12* for the high idle to kick in and still nothing. Is it possible that when I went to the Dealer last week that they didn't enable the high idle properly.Or do I need to go back to the Dealer because of some other issue. :banghead:

OK, I took the truck to the dealer with my TSB for the high idle flash yesterday. Explained that I had already had the high idle flashed and that it had previously worked. That I had used a “Superchip Programmer” on the truck and now the high idle no longer works and I think the programmer left bad traces on the ECM. I asked them to do a complete ECM reprogramming with the high idle TSB included. The service advisor explains that you cannot “reprogram” the ECM you can only update it with the newest update that Dodge has available. He explains that they had “recall” on certain Dodge truck and when the ECM was updated it made it so that when backing up the truck with the door open the horn blew until the door was closed. People hated it and wanted it turned off. Unfortunately he says you cannot just take the part of the update out that you don’t like. That you cannot just go back to what you originally had on the ECM and you’re stuck with the newest update until a newer one comes out. You can never go backwards on the ECM that you can only go forward when programming, updating, flashing the ECM. So unless Dodge had a newer update for my truck he could do nothing for me and until he “hooked” up to the truck he wouldn’t know if a newer update was available. I told him for $40 hook up to it and see what he could do. The mechanic comes out 10 minutes later and tells me that the truck has the latest update already on it but the high idle flash was “not enabled” and he merely enabled it “turned it on”. They only charged me $20 It’s only 27 degrees here in Michigan today and the truck didn’t high idle for me so I guess I’m going to have to wait until it’s a little colder before getting overly excited about the whole ordeal and calling it a success.

Well,I just made another appointment for the truck, this time to get a complete ecm reprogram. I called a different dealer and explained what had happened and he understood completely and knew exactly what needed to be done without hesitation.Both dealers are almost the same distance from my house. The good thing about the 1st one was it was on the way home. Hopefully now I'll get it straightened out.The only better news was he's only charging $40 instead of the normal $90

OK.......... I have a Superchip Programmer, it came with the truck. I put the truck back in stock mode and had the high idle turned on at the dealer it worked fine while in stock mode. I put the tuner back on the truck and the high idle didn't work. Figuring that the tuner screwed something up and already paying $90 for the dealer I just gave up on the high idle.Fast forward to this winter. I decide to just go and have the dealer re turn the high idle on. I make an appointment for this morning and head to the dealer.The service manager comes back and gets me to show me the "flash" has already been done. I tell him yea I know it has, I had it done here. I also tell him that the High idle isn't working.The mechanic says he thinks that he can just flash it again and see if that works, but the service manager over rules him and says NO it may screw something up by re flashing it again and not to do it. He's not sure why it isn't working if the flash is already on the truck.I finally tell him look, you're the Dodge Dealer if you can't tell me why it's not working or what you're going to do to fix it just give me my keys and I'm outta here.

Well,I'm glad to hear that it's normal.The truck did heat right back up once I started moving again.I'm pretty sure it's not the thermostat as I bought a NAPA one and I've only got 12000 miles on it and it does go right to 190* and holds when running down the road.I got the winter fronts made and installed, and I'm stopping at the Dodge Dealer today to see when I can get the high idle turned back on.

I had some errands to run today and drove the truck. As normal the temperature came up and held steady at 190*. I stopped at the local station to top off the fuel and left the truck running.It was in the low teens here in Michigan today. I know it's colder in other states but.............By the time I had topped off and went in to pay the temperature had dropped to about 160*Why..........

I saw the price was going up to $3.38 when coming home yesterday. I got lucky the station closest to my house was still $3.23 so I filled up.

Well, my issue is that I had the dealer turn the high idle on. Then after putting the Superchip back on the high idle doesn't work.So I'm thinking about taking it back and have them turn it back on for me again. I'm sure the dealer is going to be wondering why I'm back and why it isn't working. At $90 a pop I guess it's either the high idle or the Superchip, so yes I'm not going to be using the Superchip anymore............

Can the dealer tell if you've had a Superchip programmer on the truck if you put it back in stock mode before going to them.

On my 2002 I made some Plexiglas fronts for the top two openings. Do you think that I should have made them for the bottom ones and covered them also.

Ok........... Long story here. I had to order the cooling fan blade from the Dodge dealer $87.03 I went to the local Applied Industrial dealer (bearing distributor) about the bearing. The original bearing was a NSK #BD35-12DU and they didn't have it. The sales clerk checked with the manufacturer and came back and said that they were not going to make that particular bearing the rest of this year. Fortunately I had a cross number from the internet NTN #DF07766LLUACS32 he checked on this number and said he could have the next day $79.31 Dumb mistake, but when I had the bearing and the thing that the belt pulley bolts to pressed out of the bearing housing I didn't take any measurements. But I knew that the bearing was flush with the outside edge of the housing facing the front toward the radiator. So depending on how deep the bearing was pressed into the bearing housing it could/would throw off how the belt pulley would line up when bolted back on and the belt would not ride straight. Anyway Mine worked out. I also found the same bearing afterwords while doing some checking online at this link. I didn't get mine their and don't know how reputable they are but the same bearing was considerably cheaper $33.03 http://www.finditparts.com/products/ntn-df0766lluacs32-slash-5c?phid=1

On my 2002 dodge diesel while swapping out my power steering fluid to synthetic today I noticed that 4 of the 7 blades on my fan clutch were cracked. Then while checking that out I noticed that the whole unit has some wobble to it where the belt goes around it. The clutch part has resistance when turning the fan either way so I'm thinking that may not be bad, but the rest of it has me concerned. So I'm wondering do you just replace the blades and I'm guessing a bearing on the pulley part that the belt goes around or do you buy the whole thing as a complete unit. Thanks Dwayne

I got the repair kit from LarryB's installed and the truck starts like a champ.The contact that connects to the positive cable was worn down to .050 and the opposite side was only worn down to .112 they were both .120 thick start with. So..... I'm wondering why is it that the positive cable side was worn down so bad, and why didn't both contacts wear even.Thanks Dwayne

Unfortunately no second set of hands when I need them. I ordered the starter contact repair kit from Larry B's it should be here in a few days.Hopefully by the weekend I'll be able to pull the starter and see if that's the problem.Thanks Dwayne

Ok...... I cleaned both battery cables tried starting it and it still did it. Then I cleaned the cable connection at the fuse box tried starting it and it started every time. I thought cool..........This worked for 1 1/2 days about six starts, then it started acting up again.I just checked my batteries with a meter. Both are at 12.52 before doing anything after the wait to start light goes out they drop down to 12.40/12.41 tried two times to start it and no go........ checked the batteries again and both dropped down to 11.99. Went back and tried starting it again and it started 4 times in a row.

I have a 2002 Dodge 2500 that a couple of days ago started giving me trouble.When you go to start the truck after the "wait to start" light goes out you get nothing, no clicking noise or anything, just dead like the lights were left on and drained the batteries. Try and start it 3 or 4 times and bingo it starts up like nothing was ever wrong.The bad thing is it doesn't do it every time.Both batteries were new 3/14/08The truck has no codesI'm going to clean the battery and starter connections, but I'm wondering if anyone else has had this issue before.Thanks Dwayne

I've got sort of the same problem as Rapiscrap144. I actually had the Dodge dealer flash the high idle. The truck Idled up like it was supposed to. Then I changed tuner modes with my superchip and it quit working. So, I changed it back to stock mode and it didn't work. I called Superchips and they say if the high idle was on the truck it would save it and it would still be on it. So, I just did the resistor trick in both stock mode and with the superchip installed and neither one works. Any ideas........