kedlin88

Any ideas why the NEW alternator at NAPA read so high when tested?

Got it. Just could figure out why my pump would run when the alt. fuse was pulled. What is the extra connection at the fuel pump?

I got a 5/16" washer. Inner hole was perfect, but the OD of the washer was to big so I turned it down and it fit perfect. It bumped the idle to 19 and WOT to 17. Thanks guys. - - - Updated - - - Ok, truck is still running good, no codes, but I still got some stuff to figure out. When I remove the alternator fuse, and turn the key to on, the fuel pump runs all the time. This cant be normal. So I stated tracing some wires and this is what I found. There is two black boxes on my firewall, a small one and a bigger one. The small one has a 20amp fuse in it and the bigger one is a relay. So the red wire that goes into the small box is connected to the main stud at the alternator. The yellow wire coming out of the smaller box, goes into the relay box. Then there are two groups of wires coming out of the relay box. One group runs down and connects to wire connection coming out of the main harness at the back of the engine. The other group of wires runs down the frame to my fuel pump. There is an extra wire connection at the fuel pump. Did someone rewire the pump? Any reasons why someone would do this?

Ok, so I went to NAPA auto parts where they said they had a BRAND NEW alternator, I had them test it while I was there and hooked my meter to it and it was putting out 0.7 ACVs. Could this be with it being brand new. I also just looked at the LarryB alternator, Its only a 120 amp alternator. I believe stock was 136 amp. Only extra thing I have on my truck is a set a gauges. Will this be enough amps? THanks

I got a Borg Warner HD solenoid and new transducer order. I also was able to get my hands on a better volt meter. Battery is reading 0.3 ACVs, and drops down to 0.02 when the grid heaters kick on?? Looks like a new alt. for me. Has anyone had good luck with a specific alternator?? I would like to pick one up at a local parts store, so I can get it in tomorrow. I have a oriellys, autozone, napa, carquest, and advanced all near me, but if I can get a better one off the internet I would order one. Thanks,

Excellent, Thank you.

I think I'm going to do that. I would like to at least see 16-17 psi at idle. What size/thickness washer did you use? Thanks

Yes I was very surprised. I thought I was going to be replacing the ECM. I will no longer be sticking wires where they don't belong.:banghead: The fuse looked good on the first inspection, but I went through them a second time, and that's when I found it bad. I had to take off the little clear cover and that's when I seen a burn spot and the wire inside was broke. Also, I did finally get my fuel pressure gauge hooked up this morning and I am seeing 14.5 PSI at idle and it drops down to 13 PSI at WOT. Is this an acceptable pressure? I believe I seen somewhere that you installed a washer in your pump to raise the pressure?? Thanks

I did not try to start the truck. Was a little scared to while everything in the fuse box was going crazy - - - Updated - - - Ok, here is a video of what its doing. This happens as soon as I turn the key to the on position(engine off). http://s922.photobucket.com/user/kedlin88/media/1999Dodge2500_zpscf3cc753.mp4.html - - - Updated - - - UPDATE: Got her fixed. Thank the good lord above it wasn't the ECM. I went back over all the fuses and found the 40amp Engine Control fuse blown. I switched the fuse with the hazard lamps, turned the key over and pump primed, and no crazy noises out of the fuse box, and she started right up. Thanks guys!!!

Ok, so my fuel pump started not to kick on when the key is turned on or when the engine is bumped. So I went to the troubleshooting guide on the Airdogs website. It said to put a jumper wire where the fuse goes to see if it will kick on. Well I jumped the fuse and all of a sudden the fuel pump started clicking on and off repeatedly. So I turned the key off. Replaced the fuse and it keeps doing it. Everytime I turn the key to the on position, the fuel pump kicks on and off and there is a bunch of clicking noises in the fuse box in the engine compartment. It's like I'm turning the key on and off, on and off, on and offVery confused and don't know what to do. I tried scanning for codes, but the reader couldn't read anything, I assume because the fuse box was going crazy. Is it possible I jumped the wrong wires in the fuel relay and fried something? Thanks

Another thought is could this be related to a TPS problem? There are no codes?

I keep hearing the same thing. "I flushed my tranny, now its broke??". Personally I don't see how that could happen. I am going to do the procedure you listed above and see what happens. The truck has 266,700 miles on it. It had two owners before me, The guy I bought it from said he never touched it. SO, there is a possibility that it is the original tranny. It wont be till thanksgiving break that I get a chance to change the fluid, so ill update on what happens then. Also, just as a side question as posted above, when I removed the 140amp alternator fuse to see if that changed anything, my airdog 150 was running all the time?? We I installed the fuse back, the pump went to normal(primed after key was turned over, then shut off) Is this just how its wired up?

I have done some reading after I posted this and seeing a lot of people are getting 30ACVs with a cheap volt meter, (which is what mine is) I do not have access to a good one or a fluke. I am defiantly leaning towards a TC issue and not electrical. I am going to drain tranny fluid again and take off the lines to get more out and see what happens. Can I remove the valve body and give it a good cleaning? What should I be looking for? Is there any way to perform a pressure test? Can I up the pressure by an adjustment screw? Thanks guys

Valvoline ATF-4. This is kinda what I'm leaning towards. With only dropping the pan and not doing a full flush there is still a higher ratio of old fluid vs new fluid?? Thanks,

Ok, first off I bought this truck about 1.5 months ago and before I bought it, it had two brand new batteries and a brand new alternator installed. To be honest when I test drove it I don't believe the TC ever locked up(didn't know what TC lockup was when I bought it.) The transmission fluid was real brown and smelt really burnt, so I dropped the pan and changed the fluid and filter and adjusted bands(about 6 qts is all i got changed out. I didn't do I complete flush.) So now when the truck is cold, the TC will lock up at about 45-55mph, and the transmission starts to shudder until I get up to speed. After I get on the hwy it will stay locked in for about 4-5 miles then it starts to unlock and lock a couple of times till it finally stays unlocked and wont relock the rest of the drive into work. So I think I am starting to have the a/c noise issues. I first checked the codes and I get no codes. When I got home I checked the DC voltage at the battery and get 14.3 or so. I then switched my meter to ACVs and it reads 30.8???? I believe I have the meter set right for AC but not sure. I included a picture with the setting to make sure its right. I then remove the alternator fuse and check again on ACVs and it drops down to 26.3?? Are these readings right? When I check the ACVs at the fuse I get nothing, I just get the readings at the battery?? - - - Updated - - - I'm not sure if my volt meter is on a low enough setting for the ACVs. I also don't know if the fluid change had something to do with it? Fluid is burnt and brown in color. Then I replace 6 qts of new fluid and it starts this? Maybe it needs a complete flush? - - - Updated - - - Im not sure if this had anything to do with my bad gas mileage also. I got 12.5 mpg when I bought the truck completely stock. Then I added 4" straight pipe and a BHAF and I have ran two tanks and it only brought it up to 13mpg. - - - Updated - - - Alrighty, I removed the alt fuse again and took for a test drive. And still the same, not locking up on the hwy. Also, when I removed the alt fuse, my airdog 150 ran all the time??

Excellent!! Thanks guys!!

Alright guys, one last question. I got my tv cable adjusted and it shifting fine. But while I was in there I noticed the top cable had a lot of slack in it. It runs from the throttle bracket to something mounted underneath the drivers side batter. What is this cable and should it have this much slack? Can it be/should it be adjusted tighter? Thanks,

I have 265/75/16s. The Sticker on the door says stock is 245/75/16. Is there a equation that will tell me the difference? Thanks.

I filled the truck up full. Ran it till there was only 1/4 tank of diesel left according to the fuel gauge. Filled it back up, took my mileage that was on the odometer and divided it by how many gallons the Gas station pump read.

That's what I'm after. A little more power for towing, but mainly mileage. 13 just still seems low for a stock truck. I'm in Eastern Kansas so its mostly flat, not many hills.

I believe I read somewhere on the door tag or core support tag it has 3:72 but I'm going to double check that tomorrow. IBMobile, I see you have the edge EZ. I was looking into getting one. How do you like it? Did it improve you mpg any? Thanks,

Sorry if this is brought up a lot. I did some searching but came up with nothing. I just bought a 1999 2500 24valve cummins, 266,500 miles, Ext cab, long bed, 4x4, Auto. It was all stock except the owner before me put a Airdog 150 pump on it. Since I bought it, I have put 4" straight pipe, BHAF, and have done all fluid and filter changes.(engine oil, engine oil filter, tranny fluid/filter, fuel filter, water separator,) I got through 3/4 tank of diesel and hand calculated my mileage, and it only came out to 13.1 mpg. This is probably 60% highway and 40% in town driving. I have tried my hardest to take is easy on the throttle, but every now and then the pedal dose get away from me . This seem kinda low to me?? I don't have any aftermarket gauges on it as of now, but I will have them by next week. Fuel Pressure, Boost, EGT Temp. The owner before me did put a low fuel pressure light in, but that don't tell me nothing. Where should I start from here? Low fuel pressure? vacuums leaks? Out of spec intake and exhaust valve lash? It has stock tires and im not sure on the gear ratio. Thanks guys!

I got it adjusted! Thanks though moparman and mopartechnician I keep thinking the steel cable needed adjusting, but you actually adjust the cable housing inside the cable lock housing piece(not sure what its called) Thanks again

Thanks!!! I'll look tomorrow and see what I find!

oh. So I took out the wrong sensor?:banghead: I thought I read somewhere the the IAT sensor was up closer to the map but I cant find that dang thing if I had too...so I figured that was it.