kedlin88

I got the tie rod ends changed. It went pretty easy, popped right out. Haven't driven it yet, but I'll be rotating the tires tomorrow morning and will report back if the vibration is still there or not. Thanks,

I believe my drag link is wore out? The auto parts store website calls them the tie rod ends? There is some play in my steering wheel, but it doesn't wander around on the road. What I'm trying to figure out is if this is causing the vibration that I am having. It only happens between 30mph to 45mph. I don't really feel it in the steering wheel, just mainly in the floor board. The vibration is there weather I am braking, cruising, or accelerating. But like I said Its only between 30 and 45mph. Between 0-29mph and 46-above, its very smooth. Any ideas? I plan on going with moog parts. If I uploaded it right, I added a video of the drag link movement. tierod end.MOV

Well, found the problem. Not sure which one fixed it, but it's not leaking now. I took the line completely off, and noticed the line wanted to seat at the top of the feed tube. So I loosened all the line clamps and it fell right into place where it would seat in the middle of the feed tube. I went ahead and took the feed tube out and noticed a chunk missing from the o-ring. So I had to dig one of my old O-rings out of the trash and use it. Got her running again with no leaks this time!!

Chris, They are New Bosch Injectors. I was able to take the truck for a spin. WOW. Defiantly a noticeable power gain. Especially down low, coming onto the throttle from a stop. But I do got a problem. Injector line 3 is leaking. Not a big leak but it is seeping out. I tried to tighten it up a little but it is very snug now and I didn't want to crack it. Any ideas on what to do? Should I loosen it completely and try to torque it down again? Or am I going to be looking for a new set of lines? Thanks for all the help!

Yes, starts right up and no lines are leaking fuel. I will test drive it tomorrow afternoon and report back on how it drive and amount of smoke. If no adjustment is needed, Is there any disadvantage to installing the fooler and elbow and running at 25 or so? Will it actually help a noticeable difference in lower EGTs or mpg? Thanks,

I went and picked up a inch/lbs torque wrench from Oreilly's. It's made by Performance Tool, I think it did just fine. Got the injectors installed this afternoon. Went fairly easy. I had I tough time getting the injectors to seat. I think the new O-rings made it tough to push in there. The only other trouble was bleeding the air. Took a while but finally got it started. I just keep bump starting it to run the pump. I was only able to bleed 1,3,4,and 5,. I have only let it run in the drive way. I have not taken it out for a spin yet too see how it drives. Couple of questions. How do I know I got the injectors lines tight enough or not too tight without a crows foot? I don't mind buying a set but I don't even know if I could torque down cylinders 5 and 6 with them being so far behind the fire wall. And I doubt I could get in there to torque them on the injector pump. I'm just afraid that they might be too tight? I would assume there is nothing I can spray at each line to see if there sucking air in? Another question. Is my stock turbo psi of 19 good enough for these injectors? I have an adjustable boost elbow and a new BD Boost fooler sitting in my tool box that I have not installed. Just don't really know if I need it, or what psi to run it at with the RV275s. Thanks for all the replies.

All right, I ordered a new set of RV275 injectors and feed tube o-rings from DAP. They will be here tomorrow. I got all my old injectors pulled today. It was actually fairly easy, I had figured 5 and 6 were going to be a pain but they weren't. I can return my old injectors for a $100 refund but I was thinking about keeping them for a spare set. I decided to go ahead and take one apart tonight, and noticed there were two washers inside the injector above the spring? I've never taken one apart before, but isn't there only supposed to be one washer? Do you think the second washer has something to do with pop pressure? Injectors wore out? Also, just to make sure I have the install right, Apply clean oil to injector and feed tube o-rings Injector hold down clamp is 89 IN LBS = 7.5 FT LBS HP injectors lines are torqued to 28 FT LBS which I read is just tighter then snug with hand ( I don't have a crows foot) Does all this sound right so far? Any extra tips for the install? Thanks,

Ok, I my original transmission finally went out. So I replaced it with a Certified Transmission, the Road Ripper 2000. The uninstall and install of the new transmission went great. It shifts great and everything. The problem I am having is, I believe it is going into lock up too soon. When I am empty, and take off from a stop gentle, and gradually ease up to speed, sometimes it will lock up at 40 mph, which is no problem, but it dosent act like it wants to unlock when I give it a lot of gas. I have to put the pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there for about two seconds before it will finally unlock and I will have power. It unlocks fine when coming to a stop or slowing way down. Also, I can manually make it unlock when in 4th gear by taping the brakes, but I soon as I let up off the brake it immediately locks right back up. If I am at a stop, and take off really hard, it will lock up when I hit about 50mph while I am still in the throttle real hard. Another example: Getting on the hwy with an on ramp. As soon as I get to the top of the on ramp, at about 50 mph hard in the throttle, when I need the power to merge into traffic, it locks up and kinda lugs the power down. Is this normal for these trucks to lock up while still in the throttle hard? I would think it wouldn't lock up till the throttle is back down and steady. Could this be an issue with an APPS out of adjustment, or a TV cable out of adjustment? I have done the reset with no change. I have no codes with the code reader. The new transmission came with all new electronics. Sorry for the long post, Thanks guys,

You might also check out dodgepcmdirect.com They sell a PCM for $395 and a ECM for $895 both with lifetime warranty. They come already programmed to your vin, I have no problem going to a dealer, but if they no longer sell NEW only reman also, what the difference between buying from them and another company, especially if I can get it at a lower price and better warranty. Thanks, Kyle

Then if you click Buy It Now, it will take you to your shopping cart and it shows up there as ECM. Thanks, Kyle

https://www.partswebsite.com/dodgeparts/?i=2&make=120&model=600&year=1999&type=parts&act=new_subcategory_hp&section=3&catid=10046&subcatid=20111&fl_id=41 Yes I found it under the powertrain control, but it shows ECM's down the page a little bit. Look at it and let me know what you think, I may be seeing it wrong. Thanks, Kyle

Has anybody ever ordered parts from dodgeparts.com? They show them for $508 Thanks, Kyle

After I heard the price, I made it very clear I needed the ECM and not PCM. I was a bit surprised at the price also. Thanks, Kyle

I thought there was a ground for the ECM behind the starter? I did do the A/C check and was present. Replaced alternator and no longer have any A/C. I believe the pervious alternator fried the ECM before I knew about it. I didn't think the dealer price was that bad either. Thanks, Kyle

Got some questions about swapping an ECM. I am having issues with my WTS light and no pump prime at key on or bump start. All grounds and fuse's have been checked. Can a smarty reprogram the replacement ECM or does a dealer have to do it? Will any ECM work from a 1998.5-2002? I have heard the 01-02 wont work on a 1998-2000 because of the crank/cam sensor difference? Dose it matter if the replacement ECM is from a automatic or manual transmission? Some say it will work, some say they wont program? On the back of ECM's there are part numbers, serial numbers, and some other series of numbers that aren't labeled. Should I try to match a particular number on the ECM's? Lastly, anything special that should be done when swapping the ECM's? The local dealer can get a reman ECM for $729 plus 1/HR labor for reprogramming which is $110. Comes with 1yr 12,000 miles warranty. Reasonable? Thanks, Kyle

Ive seen some that have been welded and are still going strong. And then ive seen some that were welded and cracked again not to long after. You could weld it to buy some time, but like others have said, need to replace the block or engine. If your going to weld it, drill the ends of the crack and preheat around the area, Use a HI nickel rod and let it cool down real slow!

So with the Wastegate disconnected and plugged off you saw 32PSI Boost and 1100 EGT, but with Boost elbow hooked up you seen 32PSI and 1300-1500 EGTs?

I'm here in Basehor, KS.

Is there a way to tell if the VP has been replaced?

Truck runs great, It always starts right up. Only thing wrong with it is it only get 13mpg. I drive it very easy too, just cant get any better mpgs. I wasn't sure if the ECM is going bad which is causing problems with the vp44/timing which is the reason behind the bad gas mileage. Gonna try some RV275 to see if it helps any.

Is it possible the only sometimes the ECM will not boot up. Its only once and a while that the WTS light will not light up. most of the time it dose though, just dosent stay on for long.

Ok, I think I still might have some issues with my ECM. I if its really cold out, my WTS light will come on and stay on for about 10 seconds like normal. If I let the truck run for only a minutes, shut it off, then turn the key to the on position, the WTS light will come on, but only for a bout two seconds. I wouldn't think in one minutes of running it would warm up enough to only come on for two seconds. But then, if you just cycle the key on and off sometimes the WTS light doesn't even come on at all. If the WTS light dose not come on, the pump will not prime. I did the instrument cluster test, and the WTS light did not come on in the test. I gave it about an hour and tired the test again and the WTS light still did not come on. But it will come on and stay on if the truck is cold. Also, my grid heaters do cycle on. I'm at a loss.

Yeah I'm defiantly not going with a reman. I'll give them a call Monday and see what they say. Do they warranty the alternator even for a/c voltage? I still cant believe the brand new alt from NAPA was putting out a/c. The problem with them is it still passed there test in the store so they wouldn't warrantee it anyways.

See I called my local O'reilly's, and all they carried was reman DENSO. They did not even offer or list a NEW one.

Do you guys know If the LarryB Alternator is tested for ACVs before its sent out the door? I would hate to get a new one from him like NAPA and have it fail out the door. THanks,