evans.mikey

I have the opportunity to buy a Rear Fuel Tank from a '95 Ford F350. Anyone seen a good write up that details installation for use as a transfer tank into the main tank? I don't want to run the truck straight from this auxiliary tank in order to protect the VP44.

I know they're expensive, but after 30K and two Moog Bars I have installed the BD. It is worth it. Fully adjustable, rebuildable, and greasable. And, the folks at BD are absolutely the best. Any issues with their product and they send you a replacement immediately with no questions asked. Ask for Hector in Sales if you have questions. Note: The nice thing about the adjustable 3rd Gen style bars is that they actually eliminate the tapered collar on the frame end which you cannot get tight with a Moog Bar. Also, the Moog Bar isn't compatible with a Luke's Link. If you're running any kind of lift this is the only way I am a aware of to get your steering geometry set up correctly.

Installed new rear sensor and no speedo abs/brake light still on. Thoughts?

Thanks guys. I'll try the new sensor and get back to the group.

Thank you Michael for the ABS wiring diagram. My buddy's 2001 with A/T has the ABS and Brake light on and his speedometer does not work. So is the rear sensor the problem? We pulled each of the connections apart to check for connectivity and have it until we get to the plug end that goes into the sensor at the differential. We even spliced in a fresh wire at the connection at the differential and guess what? No connectivity at the other end of the wire!:banghead: Is it time to just try a new sensor and see if that fixes the problem?

Anyone had this problem? I'm thinking it's the micro switch. -If so, has anyone replaced it?-Location on truck?-Part number?-Heads Ups so I don't screw something else up in the process?

Mopar, Before you buy all new Track Bar and Tie Rods you may want to consider going with products from Luke's Link. The advantage here is that replacing the ends of the track bar and tie rods (where they wear out) with these products makes them both adjustable and re-buildable. If you replace with a Moog Track bar and that doesn't fix the problem then you are out of luck as the Luke's Link is not compatible with other than OEM. As for diagnosis, have someone sit behind the wheel with the truck on the ground and gently wiggle the steering wheel back and forth from 11 O'clock to 1 O'clock. While they are doing this you inspect each joint in the front end and look for any up and down movement at the joint. The ones moving up and down need to be replaced. Also, if you haven't already installed a BD Steering Stabilizer (or similar product) you may want to consider that down the road. Another excellent and inexpensive steeing upgrade is the Rock Solid Ram Steering Fix. A simple delrin bushing that replaces the factory garbage in the upper steering column and drastically improves steering response. Let me know if you have questions or want to see pics of any of these installed on my rig. Happy to help.

I have the wires connected. The only possible explanation that I can come up with is a change in resistance due to the cut. So, at this point, replacing the clock spring is the solution. Hence, the "yard" this weekend.

Thanks for all of the feedback. After some diagnosis, I have narrowed it down to the clock spring. Excellent points about the steering wheel movement during R&R. I isolated it with static rope so that it didn't rotate while it was off the truck. However, my truck is equipped with an aftermarket anti-theft system and all of the wires behind the dash are a CF! So, during removal, I cut two wires in order to remove the column thinking I would just re-connect them during re-installation. And what did I do, cut the Clock Spring wires going to the yellow connection for Air Bags!! What a born loser!! Anyway, if you plug in a DRBIII the info you will get is... "Driver Squib circuit open" a.k.a. Clock Spring. I'm heading to the "yard" this weekend to find a replacement, otherwise NAPA stocks them. Thanks again.

Hey guys, anyone have their Air Bag Light illuminate after R/R Steering Column? I've had it out twice making finer adjustments on the Rock Solid Ram Steering Column Fix (awesome upgrade by the way, totally improves steering response) and after the second time my Air Bag Light stays on. 1. Have I damaged a wire and if so which one?2. Have I damaged the clock spring? If so, how do you diagnose this? I look forward to your responses, and thank you Michael for running such an awesome site. P.S. This is on a 2002 and prior to the install no dash lights and no DTCs.

I just replaced my ball joints on driver side only and now my abs/brake light is on. Did I damage the sensor during removal/re-installation? How do you verify the sensor is functioning?