panzerq

Well sent the pcm to the place in Florida to get it fixed, said charging circuit was bad and fixed it. Had my alternator tested and it's good. Still getting no bus message after plugging pcm in. Tried jumping the asd relay again and it will start and run but pegs the volt meter off now when running. With it jumped and key on the fuel guage will work, volt guage comes up then falls to zero and check gauges light comes on. In the notes from the repair shop they said to replace crank sensor. Guess I'll try that and see what happens. Any other thoughts? Did ground mods and all that jazz

Just got done with the wt mod, doing the same thing. Was going to do the passenger side tomorrow

Hi, long time lurker first time posting. Gotta say have read alot on this site has some good Info. Had a issue the other day with my 2000 24v auto. Drove it around all day fine, parked it in the drive way and changed my brake light switch since the brake lights stopped working. After that they still didn't work so I swapped my multi switch with another one, still nothing. Went to fire it up and got a no bus message on the dash, will crank but no start, fuel pump won't prime gauges dont work for volts or fuel level when not running. After messing around checking all the grounds which are tight and clean. Truck has 76k miles on it. Did some more testing, have 5 volts coming from orange wire down at the trans plug. Found if I put a jumper wire in the asd relay, it will start and run fine no codes. Charging was seeming a little funny after running idling for awhile, cooler here so grid heaters ran for awhile. Was charging at 15 volts and he needle was dancing a little in the cab. Planning on doing the ground mods, and see if that helps. Any other thoughts? Thanks

i did a redneck repair on my alternator, the contacts wore out so i pulled the little holder off and drilled the holes out bigger so i could slide it around to make them connect untill the new part showed up. works like a champ haha

dont need to pull the inter-cooler and condenser. I was already changing my radiator when i did mine so i cant say if you have to pull it or not, but it would be pretty tight to get it all on and off with the radiator in. while the front timing cover is off you can check the kdp too. also when you buy the seal, buy one that has the little plastic installing tool on it. otherwise you will probably mess up the seal. i bought mine at Napa and it had the install tool with it. fairly easy job to do, i used RTV to seal the case back up and its working just fine now.

well when i had mine pulled out, i left the bellhouse and clutch attatched to the engine, sliding the trans in with that attatched was a piece of cake. could try doing that

hard to beat the truck you already have, they are stout and simple. if it were me I would maybe spend a little money on the truck you have you have to make it nicer/more comfortable than buying a 60 thousand dollar new one. maybe do some sound deadening and have the seats refoamed or something.... alot cheaper than buying a new one too. plus the new ones have all the emission junk on them which really needs to be deleted, which will add on to the cost of the new truck. I also prefer having the stick for 4x4, less electronics to break and cost money.

wow shes done for haha

Yeah Ive noticed ammo showing back up in alot of places too. Where are you at in Nebraska? im around omaha.

ok so i was poking around at the wiring for the gauge under the dash, and a wire on the diagram that shuold be connected to a "good engine ground" is connected to a piece of metal under the dash, im guessing i should connect that one to the negative o the battery?

thanks for the replies, finally got a chance to test it with a multimeter, its a cheapo cen tec one from harbor freight, and it was on the 200k setting in ohms. there are 3 wires coming out of the sensor, i had the key on but the truck off and I tested the wires purple- when i would touch the purple one the guage would go from pegged out to hovering at 3 psi grey- it read 78.5(read that after being blank for a few seconds of holding it to ground, when i would take it off it would read 78.5) black- it read .4 also how where would i tap the wire to check for the voltage between the guage and sender? unplug the harness from the back of the guage and the sender then use the volt meter or something on the wires? Thanks

Hey everyone, Ive got a 99 2500 24v cummins, nv4500 tranny, edge comp box, 125 injectors, and a fass 150 fuel system. Ive got a few questions about my gauges, they are all autometer cobalts. the EGT and boost ones work fine. the fuel pressure one has not worked since I bought the truck. Ive been messing with it lately to see whats wrong, and heres what ive tried to do. When I first turn the key on, the gauge goes a little below the zero mark and dose the calibration. I unplugged the harness from the sender,(the sender is ~2 months old and has a snubber before it), when I unplugged it the gauge slowly pegged its self out. I think I read that it means its grounding out somewhere? Sender is plugged in on the outlet on the fass pump I tried grounding the body of the send to the frame using a jumper cable but it didnt work. Also the harness with the 3 wires was cut and extended so it could reach up to the gauges, all of the spots where it was cut are tapped up and no wires are showing. Any ideas on what I should check next? Thanks!