santan40

The tilt wheel on my 2004 3500 is no longer working, it’s stuck in the all the way up position. I have watched a couple videos and know it’s the plastic part on the column that is broken. I can’t find the part anywhere? Can anyone shed some light on this?

gudge Than you so much for taking the time to let me know what you have found, I will be buying one of the sensors to carry with me! Just recently my truck started leaking fuel from on top of the tank. Luckily it continued to run and the fuel leak wasn’t to severe as we were on a trip with our fifth wheel. I hate climbing around under my truck, so rather than drop the tank, I pulled the bed off. It was the plastic line where the return from the injection pump hooked up, I ended up installing an Airdog fuel pump and gutted the old fuel pump from the sending canister and used the fuel feed line at the tank for the return. It’s a never ending fight! I am thankful that the Lord gave me the ability to repair stuff! Thanks again for your information!

The thing that sticks out to me, is the horn honking, it sounds like a theft deterrent malfunction.

Thanks MoparMan, I finally figured out that it was the pressure relief valve, I took the return line off at the CP3 and fuel came out, I temporarily blocked it off and it fired right up! Waiting on a new valve.

Purchased my 2004.5 3500 a year ago, it has 142,000 miles on the clock, it is stock accept for an Edge EZ. Ran flawlessly until last Sunday, I live in the Phoenix Arizona area so it was like 55 degrees out, the grid heater light came on so I waited to start the truck, it tried to start and failed, I tried again and it started, idled normally and ran great but the check engine light was on. Turned it off at a friends house for little while (10 mins) it started right up, we went to a car show, when we came out it was even harder to start, it ran great all the way home, turned it off and it fired right up. I tried to start it the next day and it would not start at all, finally got it to start today and got the codes read. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

This is good stuff! I have been thinking about putting in 4:10's and putting on a newer set of OEM wheels (17" or 18"). And thus taller tires. I currently have 3:55 and would like a little more power for the mountains. I have some mild power train upgrades but have gotten gun shy, my best friend had a second gen with Edge Juice with Attitude, he could smoke me on the hills.......but now he is pushing coolant out of the cylinder head! Maybe just install 3:73's and keep stock wheels/tires.

It's been a while since I visited the site, to answer the question about the Wicked Wheel, every day flat land performance seems about the same, however we went camping a couple weeks ago, I pull a 30' fifth wheel and a Kawasaki Teryx on a second trailer. We climbed some significant mountains, I really noticed that the boost was hitting 20 PSI and staying up there! I do not have a boost elbow or a boost fooler. I have owned this truck since it was new. Do not recall seeing the boost stay up there like that! Also the EGT's were a little better and it seemed to stay in lock up longer (At least I think it's lock up, right under 50 mph when I floor the go pedal it hits what seems like an passing gear, it's not overdrive or second gear) and was better in the hills. And while I had the turbo out it made replacing the heat exchanger hoses so much easier!

Lady's and Gentlemen, I have 2002 Cummins, 108,000 K miles, Superchips programmer, 4" Banks exhaust with the power elbow, Airdog fuel pump and a cold air system. I just installed a Wicked wheel. Purchased a boost elbow. Now for the question.......I have a boost gauge, it hits about 19 at max. Do not want to damage my engine but you know how we are.....I would like to squeeze a little extra out of her. What is a safe boost level? Thank you in advance!

Victory! Put straps around front axle ran them out under the bumper, picked it up ever so easy with a Case 580K backhoe, friend tugged on the back side with another truck. Bled fuel system and it started right up! So that's where the oil came from! Thanks again for the advice!

I do have an Airdog pump but it is above the skid plate, no codes, haven't had a chance to try and bleed the fuel system yet, to busy resurrecting the driveway! It is a blessing to have 4.5 acres in the desert but it does take work! Thanks to all

Once again the people on this forum have proved to be very helpful! This is a great forum, it is refreshing to get advice without all the trash talking! That was the result of A huricane Norbert, 4.5 inces of rain in about 5 hours, that road was a river. I did get it pulled out with a backhoe, fixed the driveway, will look into fuel I bet you all are correct and I am relieved! Thank you all again, will let you know what happens!

Drove my truck off the end of my drive way, got it stuck and got out to see what I could do. It just cut off and will not start. It did loose a little oil from a cooler line. Any ideas? Is there a extreme angle cut off?

The Grainger one looks interesting, my nephew says that a factory one is $1000.00

Thank you all very much! I agree with you and really wondered how many ever fail. Thanks again!

My nephew has a 2005, the heat exchanger leaked antifreeze into his transmission! He is getting the tranny rebuilt and wants to install a better cooler and delete the heat exchanger ($1000.00 for a new one) thoughts please!

Thanks for all the info! I was afraid we would be pulling the head. And your correct Tom right under the T stat housing. Thanks again!

A friend of mine has a 2001, the problem is that he developed a small coolant leak from the front of the head between the head and block. We re-torqued the bolts and it helped, but still seeps! Anyone ever just replaced the bolts and torqued them to factory specs? Can you get the rear ones out? Are studs a better way to go? Obviously he should remove the head do some work, we are hoping for something less stressful!

Sorry about that, had to learn how to resize pics on iPad. First pic is where they filmed final shoot out in John Wayne's True grit! Second is a lake at 11,500 feet called clear lake. Third is Red Mountain. Forth is looking out my front door. Sorry no pics of my rig.

We all need a good news story now and then! This spring I decided to update my interior and replaced my lower dash in my 2002 4X4 quad cab. After I was done it would not start! Long story short, took it to local Dodge dealer, they found a pulled pin in a connector, $760.00 later truck was home. We pulled our 30 foot fifth wheel and two quads to Silverton Colorado! Ole blue ran perfect! Got 10 mpg average, pulled all that stuff over a 11,000 foot pass, dry camped for two weeks along a beautiful creek. Love that truck! Gods creation is awesome!

Check out my post's in 2nd gen power train -----At the end of my rope, At the end of my rope (more) and the most interesting At the end of my rope Victory! I replaced the lower dash and the heater core. Would crank but would not start. Ended up being a wire that got pulled out over by the emergency brake that I had removed to drop the dash.

I actually did read the advice about pins and sockets being pushed back, took every plug apart several times looking for something. Really wanted to fix it myself. At 55 years old with 2 compressed disc's and bad eyes........I had enough, I was tired of laying under the dash and under the hood. Gave up pure and simple! I look at it this way......been married to my lovely wife for 23 years tomorrow! Have repaired every thing we own, my kids own, my mother owns and countless others. Can not total how much money I have saved, got to be in the high K's! If they had done the lower dash for me it would have been more like $1000.00 plus the parts. Thanks again for the advice!

6 hours, they asked me to sign for up to 3 hours when I dropped it off, the service adviser kept me well informed. When they new more about what was wrong they asked me for 3 more hours. All in all it went pretty well, do not feel ripped off in any way!

The good news my faithful old truck is back in the driveway! Hats off to Earnhardt Dodge in Gilbert AZ! I obviously caused the problem. A connector under the dash in the vacinity of the emergency brake pedal had a wire pulled either out or at least back far enough that it did not make connection. I am going to try and attach a picture of the techs description! Thank you to all of you who commented on my posts! Many thanks to Mopar Man for the forum! What can be learned from this? Hard to say, it cost me $760.00 to get this fixed. Am I sorry I installed my own dash and heater core? No, I can only guess what it would have cost me for the dealer to install the new lower dash and heater core. The wire harnes plugs are tender and need to be respected! Not even sure what I did, just thank God it's back and running, no new parts or computers.

Ya know I get the part that if we need fuel injection to work we need a processor. But we could have used the old tried and true wire to fuse to switch to light instead of another processor(s) Just sayin!

Thanks for the info mulcher812! At 55 years old this is the first time I have had to take a vehicle to the dealer! Will let everyone know what it turns out to be.