lcattin

It was easy to rebuild. I used a Weller gun to solder the brush leads in.

Got the starter kit with contacts and brushes today and got it rebuilt and installed. This truck has never cranked over this fast in the 4 years I have owned it. Thanks to everyone who offered advice and guidance to help me get this done. Now all I have to do is change the heater core. That's for another day.?

Thanks for the tips. I have it removed and torn down. It is really dirty inside and I think the brushes are sticking a bit so I ordered the Larry B kit with brush kit included. I don't think this starter has ever been apart in 365K miles. Should take of things. I'll update when I get it done.

Ok. Re-tightened the connections and not much help. Also found the tag that showed that it is a Denso. Time for rebuild.

If I remove the starter how can I tell if it is original Denso or Cummins?

Thanks for the help guys. I ran across the Larry B website the other day so now I know that is the way to go.

I have a 1999 Dodge 1 ton Cummins with 2002 engine showing 365K on the ODO. The starter seems to be spinning too slow. Voltage regulator was out on the alternator so that was replaced. Batteries were 4 years old and store checked them failing their testing so they were replaced. The starter speed hasn't changed with the new alternator and batteries. The question is, do I get a reman starter from O'Reilly or AZ, or rebuild the starter that I have? The rebuild kit would be a little cheaper but more labor intensive. Please weigh in with you opinions on the best way to go. Thanks, Les

I have replaced the rear sensor. I have not done the fronts due to the fact that they are a bit expensive and the brakes do work so it hasn't been a priority. I certainly get tired of looking the red and amber light all the time on the dash though. I have been through the relay harness twice and have not found anything wrong with the wiring. I will look again.

Alternator charging voltage is 14.2 and with my meter the AC voltage showed .02 and less. Positive leads are directly to the battery. Negative lead on drivers side is directly to the battery and on the passenger side to one of the fender bolts. Grounds from motor to body seem to be solid. Didn't touch the glass on the bulbs. I cannot say that they didn't touch the truck though while installing them in the housings. (didn't want to take the housings out of the truck to change) I wish there was a way to log the voltage off the alternator while driving to see if the regulator is letting voltage spikes through the system. The reason I wonder is that since February I have replaced several headlight bulbs, a lift pump, and since I have owned this truck the ABS light will come on when it is warmer outside. When the temp stays under 45 degrees the ABS is fine and works. Also if I remove the harness and hook the headlight up to factory setup I don't have any problem with blowing bulbs.

No, they are solid in the housings and housings are tight as well. Although the Interstate I have to drive to work is rougher from the winter than most dirt roads around here in Arizona.

Last time I checked charging was a bit over 14 and they are lasting a week or less. I will check charging again this weekend.

I picked up a set of aftermarket sport headlights and built the harness from the info on this site. They work great except for the fact that I have started blowing headlight bulbs. I have been using Sylvania and Wagner bulbs. Are these brands just not heavy duty enough for the voltages directly off the battery's? Last week the low beam elements in the 9007 bulbs both burned out. I replaced them both and this week both high beam elements in the 9007 and 9004 on the passenger side went. I am about ready to go back to the OEM housings and just the 9004 bulb on each side. Only problem is that I tossed the old housings as they were in real bad shape. Anyone have any ideas?

Great discussion on brakes. Looks like I will have to get the rotor that is running out, trued back up. I just need to find some place in my area that has a machine heavy enough to do the job. Most places just have the lightweight machines and can't handle the larger hubs.

I just picked up a new set of pads from my local Oreilly's tonight. They are a good bunch of guys there and several are mechanics so I seem to get some good info. They told me tonight that the ceramic pads do not work well on the 1 ton trucks and definitely cause hot spots on the rotors. My rotors are not cheap. It is 2wd and it has the large cast hub and rotor combo about $185 each so I don't want to tear them up. I had another set of stiffer front shocks here and installed them. Seems to have more front end stability now and not as much bounce when breaking. I am going to try the new pads first and if I still feel the problem then I may have the one rotor that is running out .007" turned. Hopefully I can put this to bed so I can get back on my Troopers head gasket project. I've never run across head bolts that were so hard to remove. Thanks for the help guys.

Yes, slightly.