Nekkedbob

A simplistic way that it was explained to me 40 some years ago is torque gets you started from a stop, horsepower gets you up to speed and torque holds you there.

Thanks guys. I will be testing #9 fuse tomorrow. As I see it if the ECM doesn't start that should be good enough to keep it from starting even if they jump the starter or destroy the ignition lock.

I will be on the road for the next couple weeks and will be parking my truck in some undesirable spots and wanted some ideas as how to disable my truck so if someone was to get in it and broke the ignition they could not start it. I did try pulling the AOD relay but it still started but had no dash power. Is there any other relay or fuse that I could pull quick and easy even under the hood that will keep it from starting that would not be so obvious that a thief would notice. This is a emergency trip and I may not be able to respond but I will be able to read what was posted so don't be offended if you don't hear from me. Thank you ahead of time for any new ideas. Bob

I know that the high idle has been enabled because it does work . I do think that MOPAR1973MAN has it right in that I think that it is seeing a momentary open thinking that that was a colder temp and starting 3 cyl. mode. I hate to say it but I could not find a place that I liked for MOPAR1973MANs unit so I built one of my own. I will be redesigning the IAT circuit to eliminate the possibility of it seeing a open this winter but I don't have a garage is it wont get installed until next spring. I have been to two dealers and they don't know anything about 2nd gen 24v or earlier , all young guys that were only taught CRs.

Yes I am sure it is a 24v-motor has it on the valve cover-label on doors-has a vp44 IP. I went out this morning and set the high idle then started it, waited 6 min. and no high idle (45 degrees outside). Shut down engine and restarted after 5 min with switch off then turned on high idle and waited, after 10 min no luck. I don't question the unit as per my scangage2 all parameters are correct. I will be out of town later today and will try a different dealer to see if they know what is going on. Sadly the last dealers cummins tech had never heard of the high idle/3 cyl. and he said that he owns a 2000 with a cummins in it and he lives and works in WI.

I built a mpg/high idle for my truck a month or so back and I am having a problem and hope that I can get some insight. When I turn on the high idle I get a temp reading on my Scangage 2 of 137 water temp and 31 iat temp. If and when it starts the high idle as soon as it hits 1200RPM it goes to 3 cylinder. I have a 3 cylinder switch that will make the iat read 13 degrees but it makes no difference. This has worked this way except once when the outside temp was below 32 degrees. I tried to have a dodge dealer check this and they said that I have a 12v ( manufacture date is Feb 1998 ). I know that it has been flashed for the high idle buy the PO but he didn't know that it had been working incorrectly. What the big question is if I just needs the high idle reflashed or a complete reprogramming and what I can do about dodge thinking that it has a 12v in it After 3 weeks and 5k miles I can tell that the mpg setting is working and am satisfied with it.

Thanks, that is what I thought. I plan on taking one on my trip just incase.

I have a 1998 qcsb 4x4 5 speed and I noticed a slight movement in the tach needle at all rpms. It has done it since I bought it back in april and was wondering if it might be a warning sign of a sensor on its way out. It only moves about the width of the needle and I cant feel and change in speed or engine noise. I am going on a 3 week trip at the end of the month and thought that I might bring a spare but I don't know if it would be, the crank or cam sensor. All of my other trucks seem to have a rock solid tach needle but this has me bugged.

thanks!!

Thank s mopar1973man for the schematic. Is the 1999 fsm download close enough to use on a 1998.5 or was it changed to much.

I cant make any sense of the schematics in my manual but I went to a local shop and they looked it up on ALLDATA and it shows that the oil pressure signal from the sending unit goes to the PCM so I would think that the scangage should be able to see it. Has anybody found a web sit that lists these numbers that I can try.

I have a scangage II that I use as a monitor and want it to display my oil pressure. Has anybody been able to get it to read the oil pressure from the pcm. I haven't been able to figure how to get my truck to show at the bottom of my posts so any help would be appreciated so here it is 1998.5 stock except BHAF , ISSPRO A pillar gauges , 4" exhaust , BD boost fooler waste gate line plugged

If you pull trailers that are only 6' wide the standard mirrors are fine but if you hook to a 7' or 8' wide trailer you will notice the difference. With my old v10 a 7' trailer was bad to see around and a 8' was scary but with the wide mirrors you can see everything that you need.

I had 290 ,335 and 380 ( special build by a shop in Fremont Ca. ) and I think I liked the 335 the best. I still fight the urge to shift at 2100 but with the horrible spacing in the 5 speed I force myself to shift at 2400 ( like driving a Detroit ) so I don't pull it below 1500. Your last statement has sold me now for the $$$ . The first thing that I bought and installed was a set of gauges , BHAF and have a Fass on order. The PO replaced the IP 50k ago ( the stock lift pump went out and he didn't have a FP gauge ) and put a stock lift pump with a cheap fuel pressure gauge in it so now it has an A pillar set by ISSPRO. As it sets now I get as low as 18 and on a 400 mile trip I got 21.4 but I haven't pulled my trailer that is only 2700lbs , that will happen at the end of sept.

Thanks guys. Back when I was a owner operator in the late 70s early 80s we never ran a waste gate but very few Cummins that I knew of would hit 20 pounds of boost. We used to run the 855 CI engines and the were very touchy and you could blow one up if you pulled one outside of the 300 rpm operating range. This truck has been a learning experience and from what I have read and seen they really are almost indestructible compared to what I learned on. The reason that I bought the 24v was so if I decided I needed more power I could just put a box on it but if I don't need one I was not going to put one on because if I had one I know I would be using it even when I didn't need it ( might enjoy it to much and kill my mileage). I bought mine because I had a 95 v10 that I really liked the power and torque but the feds have been messing with the gasoline and I watched my mileage drop from 15 MPG down to 8.5 MPG empty or loaded.

I have a 98.5 4x4 5 speed that is box stock truck with 200k miles and was wondering what the max boost would be if I put a boost fooler and a boost elbow or just capped of the waste gate line. I am not looking to make goobs of power but wondered if I will see any power increase or if it will hurt my engine in any way . From what I learned many years ago as a owner operator the more air with the same fuel rate would drop the EGTs. I have installed a full set of gauges and will be ordering a Fass DDRP in a week or so. I can get a max of 20 PSI at wot before it defuels or opens the waste gate or both and if there is any more power to be had I would to be able to use it if needed. I don't want to by a comp if I don't need one. I will be going on a trip in Sept with a small trailer and it will be the determining factor. My trip will be at least 3 weeks and cover close to 6k miles so the truck needs to be rock solid reliable

On my 98.5 it is in the front of the timing cover right in front of the IP.

I had a 95 v10 that I ran 10w30 when I bought it (2008 with 175k miles) and it used about 2 quarts every 1500 miles. I decided to try Rotella 15w40 and the consumption went down to about 2 quarts in 3000 miles and never increased before I sold it this year at 230k miles. It did not help the mileage and it did make crank slower when it was below freezing. As a old mechanic I was always told if a engine used to much oil to go to a heavier weight oil will help.