Nathan Croxton

I left the smarty settings on default when I last put it on 4. I never really cared for the torque management being high. All it seemed to do for me was boost throttle sensitivity. I thought about trying sw8 and 5x1 on the comp. I wasn't sure if I was going the wrong way and needed slightly less fuel from the smarty.

It must be sw4 then. I can't ever remember which ones add timing. Good thing they provide a paper that tells me.

I know the smarty and edge stock aren't optimal for top end power but I love the low end grunt the smarty adds. I was wondering if any one was running anything close and what would be good for my set up. I don't think I can adjust the timing since the edge does that. Also I know i can only run the fuel only tunes. I think the TM only boosts throttle sensitivity on my year. I understand what duration does but I don't know if the Comp does that. I am currently running on SW5 and am seeing a little over 18mpg with the comp on 5x5. I'm only one week on my new set up.

Geno's garage should have everything

I'm asking $200. If you want to message me a number I can send pictures via phone. if not I can post some on here for you.

I have an HX 35 I want to sell.. No shaft play

The 150 hp injectors and the BD killer B turbo

I ended up getting the injector and turbo combination from DAP. So far I have been very happy with it

I would prefer a single that I could grow into and keep around 45 psi until I need a head gasket. I figured my truck will need one soon then I would do head studs. My hx35 will peg my 35 psi guage at 2200 rpm so I'm not sure where it is actually at. That has been my set up for almost two years. So im not really sure how much longer it will last

It had right at a half tank and fired right away. I still think there might be an air leak somewhere. I wanted to replace the cross tube o rings I just haven't had much time

I could go with injectors first, I just figured it would be a smokey mess. Other than shaft play and exhaust leaks on the turbo is there anything else to look for. When I change the oil in a week or so I am going to check my turbo out. I don't want to buy injectors if the turbo is on its way out

The crank sensor fixed the tach, it just took a day for some reason... all the other codes were fixed with a map sensor.

So I guess The super B single is the way to go. I had looked at it. I just don't know much about BD turbos

I'm sure with a Cheetah you are paying for a name. A cheetah seemed high at almost $1800. A 63/68/12 sounds nice, what are my options in that size? I don't tow very much and if I do it's not heavy.

what about a fleece cheetah? They are 15 min from me

How much of an MPG loss? Just 1-2 or more? I am not really concerned about max MPG. I am getting 23-24 now with my current set up. I would like more performance out of it . That's why I was thinking turbo and injecors . I just don't know which turbo since I guess the AFE is junk.

I was planning on adding some 150 hp injectors as well. I drive the truck everyday to work. So I don't anything horribly smokey but I do want better performance out of it.

I was just wondering. I haven't heard much about them and I can't really find any info on them. What about an Aurora 4000?

Well this weekend I got on mopar1973mann's database and checked my codes. Since I had the p1488 I did the test procedure that he recommends, and I came up with my MAP sensor being bad. I should have it in a few days. I will let everyone know what happens.

I was thinking of getting a new turbo to run on my truck. Has anyone ran one the Bladerunners. here is the website link for the turbo I was looking at. http://www.xtremediesel.com/afebladerunnerturbocharger46-60061.aspx

no everything worked as normal. I checked the oil when I got to work and it was good. nothing weird happened other than the gauges

I had the heat on and radio... It was 6 degrees today.

Well on my way to work today the rpm issue went away. However All at once I got a check engine light, water in fuel light , and check gauges light. My oil pressure dropped down to zero for five seconds or so then went back to normal. It did this about five more times. The water in fuel light went off after I opened the drain valve on the fuel filter housing and hasn't come back on. On my way home oil pressure never dropped and the water light never came on and the tach worked fine. I pulled these codes once I got home P1488, P0236, P0382, P0238, P0522, P0177. Not sure why all that happened at once

Any ideas about my tach?

I guess it could be bad. wouldn't it throw a code though.... I never had a code before though