gradymayhem

This gets me thinking... I should really do a shift kit. Sounds like you baby your trans and are still developing issues. Hope they clear up for ya with a simple addition of fluid.

That's strictly highway mpg though, any amount of stop and go and I'm right back down to 17ish. But she does well if I can set cruise right at the very bottom of OD and go for a few miles on flat, straight ground.

I'm surprised, I figured the 3rd setting would start to cause 47re problems. But if it doesn't that's great news for me. Although I'll basically still just use economy mode, I have the option for a bit more power next time I'm dragging a tree or something. Found a used edge ez from a guy in Montana, I'm gonna get it as soon as I get paypal set up (they're making me jump through all these hoops). Thanks for the input everyone, I really like this forum. Smaller with some real knowledge and no grief for helping a relative newbie like me. And 1973man, that is some truly impressive mpg! I'm at 22.9 ish after my new, less aggressive tires. But man are they easy to spin in the wet and I miss the look of the Coopers. If I can save enough money, the next set will be Dynapro ATMs. I've had good luck with efficiency and grip with those, not to mention my one set has lasted 3 years on the half tons I've had them on. I hope to hit 25 (maybe ambitious) after the edge, exhaust, and after I swap out my S&B CAI for a BHAF, cause despite my good luck and diligent care of the S&B, I've heard a lot of bad talk about them.

Jumper vs in cab switch? Is one preferable? And I should have the hx35 because the hy was for automatics in 01 and 02 right? So I could do a boost elbow?

I'm looking to get a used programmer for my 00 24v 47RE. I'm not looking for much horsepower and can't afford stacking chips, so I'm looking for one cheapo/used one to give me fuel economy. I wouldn't mind a bit of horse or a bit of smoke or whatever, but I'm really just looking for mileage, as trans improvements have yet to come. So far, been looking at Edge EZ, Diablo Powerpuck (with which I'll need a boost fooler, I guess), Superchips Flashpaq, or a Quazilla even though they're discontinued. So I guess my question is: I don't want to endanger anything with a "pressure box" but on economy setting, am I really doing any harm? If not, which of these is best for modest power gains and some fuel mileage? I've read the manufacturer-stated gains but don't put much stock in what they say, or the reviews on amazon, ebay, etc. If I could get timing and duration in combination with fueling, that'd be great but I guess that's in the next price bracket and more worryingly, in the next power level where I could damage the trans. Not to mention finding these used is near impossible. Might just go with whatever I can find.

Thanks mopartechnician. Yeah that's what I meant when I said "flush". I don't wanna go stirring up sediment and messing anything up. And thanks yabbadoo, it's my dream truck... Except for the short bed and 47re. Fortunately, the trans has been problem free but I've heard so many horror stories that I want an nv4500. But I'll skip big expenses til I get the long bed version of my truck lol.

Just saw an extensive writeup on Cumminsforum http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/434957-47re-nv4500-swap-writeup-pics.html

Makes sense, I always assumed the asd relay tied into the fuel pump to starve the vp ijn order to defuel. Thanks for the info guys

Thank you! I've used your articles and some wiring diagrams from the site before. I really appreciate you taking the time to share your passion. It makes learning much easier for noobs like me. And as far as HP gains go, do I need to be concerned about my stock 47RE just from the power gained from efficiency mods? I'd like to do a valve body and stuff eventually, but for now, replacing the filter and making sure the bands are good is my primary concern.

So for those of you who saw my previous thread about my pump issues, you know that my fule pump is now hard wired into the battery. Because of this, the engine can't mandate defueling if I exceed the set boost level. So I'm planning on just getting a boost elbow since a boost fooler isn't really needed to trick my computer into thinking I'm at lower boost since it can't defuel. Anyone see a flaw in this? I feel like if this method worked, nobody would buy boost foolers.

No, I didn't. Maybe a 15 amp inline fuse?

Hey guys, didn't see this introduction area or I would've posted here before. Lifelong cummins fan, and fairly new cummins owner here. Guess I'll share a bit about my truck. Last may, a friend of a friend was putting his 00 24v up for sale. The dealership would only give him 4 grand, so I paid him 4300 and got the truck, despite him suspecting Vp44 issues. I figured out that the vp was just fine (he had put in a new upgraded one) it was just a weak lift pump. So my first project was installing a Raptor 150 with 1/2" line and pulling the stock pump from the tank. Since then, I've redone the body, gotten another set of tires and wheels, put on an s&b intake I got from a buddy for helping him stud his 01 twin turbo, installed a fuel pressure gauge, removed the silencer ring, and done some much needed maintenance. I'm not much of a horsepower junky, I'm all about durability and low end torque. So I don't plan on extensive mods, just stuff that will give me fuel economy and help me make it from the 190000 mark to the 1000000 mile mark. As money allows I'm going to add: boost elbow and boost gauge, exhaust (4" diamond eye unless I can find a used stacks kit for around the same price), a cheap tuner with economy mode, shift kit and other parts when I do a tranny flush this spring, and 50-100 hp injectors when my stock original ones eventually fail (started getting grey smoke on startup recently but some cleaner brought it back to a healthy black so I'm not sure how long these injectors have). I'd post a picture of my truck as my profile pic, but it won't let me because "maximum file size is 0kb". I'd also change my signature to include my truck description but can't figure that one out either lol.

So here's what I did: just the most basic solution imaginable. Wired it into the battery with a switch that I mounted in the little dash cubby. Actually doesn't look all too bad, got a light up blue switch that matches my truck. But everything has worked great so far with this setup, so on to more fun truck projects. Next up is a boost elbow, boost gauge, and just maybe some injectors.

I apologize for bumping this again but grounding it did nothing but simply hooking it up to the battery did nothing. So I can't really isolate hot or neutral side as the problem. Guess I'll just wire it into the battery with a switch although that's less than ideal.

Update: grounded it to body and that didn't fix anything. So either a brand new bad pump or an issue on the hot side. Is the starter relay a potential problem here? The truck wants to turn over and did with the fuel pump unplugged so I doubt that.

Thank you all so much for the replies! But I gotta be honest, this is a bit technical for me. I'm pretty solid with mechanical stuff, but electrical has always been a challenge for me. Anyone want to explain what I should do like you're explaining to someone who only knows the basics of electrical? If I'm reading this right, I should ground the pump's neutral to the body and leave the hot side as it is through the stock harness with the stock relays in line, right? Wiring it into the wiper circuit seems a bit beyond my knowledge, unless it's really easy. And if, after grounding to block or body, the pump still won't turn on, I should just buy a switch from the electrical supply store and run directly from battery? That seems less than ideal but if it is what I have to do to avoid any more down time , I'll do it.

I took the reading from the wire harness thing that plugs into the pump without the pump connected.

Hey all, I've tried everything I can think of and I can't resolve this issue. My 2000 automatic won't start because the lift pump (raptor 150) won't turn on. I had only 3000 miles on it before it suddenly stopped working. So I checked my ASD relay and my fuel system relay, both were fine. So I unplugged the pump and bumped the starter and checked voltage with my multimeter. Got a healthy 12.3-12.7 volts. So I figued the pump was bad and got a new one under warranty. When the new one came in, the same issue continued. I figured maybe there was some glitch and the ECM was telling the motor to defuel because the check engine light with p1693 came on when it stopped wanting to start. I suspect 1689 because I used to get that once in a while during hard starts. So I unplugged my battery terminals and let everything reset. Plugged everything back in, issue is still there. So what's up? Should I just hard wire the pump in to the battery? Is there another relay that could be bad? How do I go about testing the ground for the pump? Oddly, the truck started without the pump plugged in and ran long enough for me to limp it 2 miles home, but turning it on and then plugging in the pump caused it to die immediately.