gradymayhem

125s are probably more my speed then. Not going for big numbers really, just want her to be peppy. Not looking for huge boost cause headstuds are out of my price range. Maybe 125s and a decent turbo that can supply nice cfm without starting to warp things.

Trans is warrantied to 450 hp or so, that was before I added billet anchors and better bands... not that those small upgrades will make it or break it lol. But yeah, I'm concerned she'll be pretty smoky if I do the injectors without a real turbo on there. I don't mind a puff of smoke or so, but I'm not exactly looking to black out an intersection when I get on it. And the banjo bolt on the back of the head links to the vp return? Ok, good info, thank you.

2000 with Raptor 150, Edge JWA, full 1/2" line from tank to VP, S&B intake. After sitting, she cranks and cranks (5-12 seconds) before starting, and then billows white smoke. I haven't noticed missing coolant so I don't think I'm losing compression via a bad headgasket. Had a bad starter that I replaced and oddly enough a bad vp ground at the same time but this didn't fix the issue. So this leads me to believe I'm losing prime since vp issues typically manifest when hot, not when cold. But my lift pump is tied into a toggle switch on the dash. I can turn on the pump and instantly be at 20 psi right before the vp, so even if I had a small leak, i'd push any air out of the system by turning on the pump. This leads me to think that if prime is in fact the issue, its after VP, maybe crossover tube o rings. Had the air bled professionally in may after the transmission guy ran her dry on accident and the problem didn't surface until recently. Planning on going into 7x10.5 or so ducky injectors, should I just do that now and kill 2 birds with 1 stone?

Cracked 47re case, internals are good. Will a 47rh case work if we modify the plug to accept the new plug instead of the old 3 prong?

Alright, I've got a few things to investigate. Thanks a lot guys, helped me sort through the issues.

Yeah, I know the solenoids are new, a broken wire or something sure would make sense. I don't really know where to start tracing though... Basically from the PCM I'm guessing.

Yeah, I've only driven it to see if adjustments have helped and to bring it home form the barn where I was working on it. We've been in touch.

But no free rev during the slip at all. Rpms stay consistent.

No, he's about 4-5 hours away. I went up and got the new transmission from him personally. The squealing is sometimes accompanied by the transmission jerking, like I can feel it buck. When the old transmission was doing this, I took it to a local shop and they said I needed a full rebuild due to chips in the VB and when the guy who rebuilt my trans took it apart, he showed me the extreme wear on the internals. I'm at 35mph or so around 2000 rpm, 45mph around 2500 rpm or so. I don't like pushing the rpms up that high so I only did it once to test. Once in a while I'll get this halfass shift kind of feeling around 15mph/1800rpm, but it isn't an actual 1-2 shift. Unfortunately, I can't bring it back to him since he's so far. I simply can't pull the trans again, drive it up again, and reinstall it again while balancing school and work.

Oh, and it was built by Black Sky Racing. Place came extremely highly recommended from people all over the midwest and the owner/main guy seems like a straight shooter and very knowledgeable.

It slips when I put it in drive and then again sporadically while driving making that awful squeal noise. I only have one gear and it doesn't seem like 3rd since I don't really labor to take off, its just slow. I might try the resistor in line trick and see if that fixes it. Could be the computer telling the trans to limp I guess. Cheap thing to try.

The only one I've heard good things about in my area can't seem to call me back. Or I would've just given in and done that by now.

I just think it has to be more than coincidence that this new transmission is giving me the exact same issues as the old transmission. It seems like it has to be something with the truck more than the transmission itself.

Good point, it's a 2000 2500 4x4. The pressure in the lines were said to be 80 psi by the guy who built it, so I'm assuming that's at idle. I know the gov pressure solenoid is aftermarket, as are all the electronics in the new trans I believe, I don't think he used the older style stock ones. The torque converter is a low stall single disc billet one, I don't know the brand but I know it is a decent one, sorry I don't know much about transmissions at all. I'm not getting a temp light, but it seems as though the truck may actually be starting in 2nd gear since takeoff is slow and I can get up to 40 mph around 2000 rpm. I'm not sure if this could be limp mode, since limp mode starts in 3rd gear, or so I hear. Our issues seem similar. Everything I'm hearing is pointing to pressure, which makes sense. I'm just terrible at diagnosing what is causing it lol.

I blew everything out with air, all the liquid I got out was quite clean.

Hey all, just pulled my old trans that was slipping and not wanting to shift out of first a few weeks back. Got a brand new rebuild with a shift kit, raised pressure, redone VB, the works (not a full race trans but warrantied to as much power as I could add on a single turbo) and put it in. At first, it wouldn't run well, so I figured "what the heck, I'll replace output speed sensor and try." After that, It ran fine for about 5 miles until suddenly, it started slipping and wouldn't shift out of first. Same exact issue I had with the old one. The other day, it started up and went through the gears no issue but the problem has since come back. Now I've got the fluid level perfectly dialed in, adjusted the TV cable all around, cleaned all contacts, and put in a brand new output speed sensor. The issue is still there. Any common issues? I know it could possibly be TPS related, but I don't have any dead spots on the pedal and none of the other weird tps issues. I was told it could be an internal harness, but I have one that was tested before installation and was found to be good so I doubt that. Could it be TCM or a bad ground or something? It seems like it must not be making enough pressure because of the slipping and no shift, but I'm not sure what would cause that. Not enough power to the pump maybe? Air in the system somehow? Any wires/grounds I need to check before bringing it in for pressure testing?\ I installed it myself so I know it was done right, the one mistake I made was overfilling it at first, but I never turned the truck on or even connected the battery until I had drained out the excess fluid. I've got all sorts of time and money tied up in this now and it still won't work right, starting to get super worried. Thanks.

And I can't figure out how to change my signature lol. The ones I'm looking at are updated stock models with better valve bodies and billet torque converters and updated internals. Nothing fancy, just a bit better than stock.

All stock. I'm not big on power, just have intake and exhaust. Eventually I will get a tuner for economy mode. Don't plan on adding power ever really, beyond maybe maybe a few simple things like 50 over injectors if these stock ones ever go bad.

Well, got my diagnosis from the trans shop today, the 47re needs a full rebuild. They want to charge me 1500-2000 for a stock rebuild and 2500-3000 for an updated rebuild. Considering I could buy a waranteed reman for that or do a 5 spd swap, I think I'll be going elsewhere. I'm looking at Shift Rite (out of Kankakee IL) or Smart Parts. Both have warantees and seem comparable. Any words on which is better? Shift Rite is a couple hour drive away so I can bring my broken trans in and make sure it passes core inspection, then leave with my new trans and save shipping cost, so I like that idea. Any other brands out there in the $1500 range I should look at? 5 speed swap would be optimal but I think that puts me in the next price bracket up.

That would cause a 2-3 no shift? It will not shift at all now. I figured it was a valve body issue but TC could certainly be it, and is probably cheaper than a new valve body or serious valve body work. The fluid is smelling a bit gurnt now all of a sudden too, so that could make sense. Yeah, if I pull it and do new bands, new TC, or new valve body I'll definitely do that stuff. I'm just scared I won't be able to diagnose it correctly and will end up throwing a bunch of money at it. And no, I'm certainly not doing big mods. I'm all about dependability and some low end torque, not big power and smoke and tire squealing haha. When/if I eventually have to do injectors, I'll do like 50 hp over or something modest and may eventually get fuel economy tunes if I can find a used tuner cheap.

I've gotten hard starts due to too high of fuel pressure after installing my aftermarket lift pump. Hardwiring the pump to the battery with a switch made the problem go away. Not sure if you have the stock lift pump but if not, that could be your issue.

I checked fluid level warm in neutral and added just a tiny bit to bring the level up to where it should be. It still won't shift into 3rd right, in fact it does nothing but get harder to get it into 3rd.

Hey all, I've been looking for info on the issues my 47re is starting to have and I can't seem to find a set of issues that is the same as what my truck is having, so I need some help troubleshooting. I'm a broke college kid and I need my truck up and going strong for winter snow removal but can't afford to have the trans professionally done. Starting about a week ago, the trans started slipping from a dead stop. This didn't happen often (maybe 5% of the time) and still isn't happening often, but now I get this whooshing/whistling noise once in a while and the truck won't shift cleanly into 3rd. I have to be going over 2000 rpm and then drop below 2000 while maintaining speed and it'l shift as I drop below 2000. I was told on a Cummins facebook group that it is my output shaft starting to shear. I replaced the output speed sensor about 3 months ago and when that was bad, it wouldn't even get out of first, so I don't think that's the issue. When I figure out what's wrong, I plan on doing a transgo shift kit at the same I fix the issue along with a fluid and filter change. Another symptom I'm having is just slightly low trans fluid level and I noticed just a bit of smoke coming out when I pulled the trans dipstick, but the fluid does not appear burnt at all and does not smell funny. There is a tiny, tiny leak on the t case but it is never enough for any fluid to ever drip to the ground, and the fluid level is only slightly low, so I don't think lack of fluid is the issue as much as a symptom of something else. This isn't a high power application, my truck is all stock minus lift pump and cold air intake, and soon to be exhaust once I get my flex pipe in for stacks. Really want to get this resolved before downtime starts costing me money. Thanks. 2000 24v basically stock.

Wow, the shop where I had the new tires mounted just put mine to 60 psi since the tires are rated at 80. Sounded good to me so I just put a bit more in for mpgs and left it. I'll try the formula once I get my axle weights.

Mine does this at idle. I hear a change in idle speed and the pressure drops from 17 to 15 and then the idle changes again and psi comes back to 17. I know it isn't the gauge because it is brand new. I've also had this happen maybe twice that I've seen while driving but have no clue as to the cause.