JOHNFAK

Well I think I have two options on the breather side. 1) - add a breather to oil cap on valve cover - and put a splash plate underneath to allow gases in but no oil. 2) Route both breathers via a 3way tee to something like this placed higher than the breathers (to allow oil drain back) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003C0173E/ref=s9_simh_gw_p263_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_r=13TNXZCQY6DKNM14A7GX&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1630083502&pf_rd_i=507846 Then For anything that goes into the catch can - route it back into the side of the block - probably in the oil drain return line for twins on passenger side of block. Im not convinced I don't also have a vaccum pump issue ........ how do you block it off and is it safe to do so (to test) ? I might rebuild it anyway with the goulds or similar cummins rebuild to feel better about it.

ok - kinda makes more sense. Still dont think its the issue based on history of truck - but I guess I wont know until I do compression test. Been talking with a couple higher HP ppump truck guys and the consensus is its pretty common. Baffled breathers or a catch can seem to be the route of choice .......... think I'll go that route to keep it under control until I get time to chase teh vacuum and validate/rebuild ...... and get my hands on a compression tester and validate.

Dont think your gelled up. Need to deal with the codes first - especially if one is vehicle speed sensor and your getting irregular throttle response. Pull it and check for continuity and clean etc .......

No what I mean on compression check is if the cylinders were bad - wouldn't I have blowby when engines warm at idle ? Vacuum pump was a separate deal based on some threads of vacuum leak causing raised crank pressure Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

I get that ...... but it seems to ignore a few different/key things 1) Its a 100k mile engine 2) It has no blowby under normal operation <== where did it go if it was a bad seal/engine ? 3) Its highly modified pushing 50-70psi boost Not your typical hauler. Now having said that - at some point I will. But right now looking to see if anyone knows about the vacuum issue I was talkign about or about adding extra breathers. Heres a link http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/pressures-been-building-and-ive-got-vent-t199914.html?t=199914

Lost me. What Im trying to say is under normal driving I see now blowby. So doesn't indicated an engine wear problem as then I would have it under normal driving conditions - I will try and get a video. When it does happen is under large acceleration under boost. This is a 600HP truck. So Im *guessing* there is enough crank pressure at that power to push past the rings and create this scenario - thats my assumption. Other would be a turbo oil seal leak or a vacuum seal leak - just from what I have read. Kinda makes sense but not fully aware of how that would create extra pressure in the crank apart from its no longer sealed correctly as those both have oil feeds for cooling/lubrication.

Even though this only happens under high boost (greater than 50 psi) and I have no blowby ?

X2 Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Id go the mechanical pump. Its just cool and works. Sump would be neat too as long as you dont 4x4 and have inspections.

Not sure yet there's so much oil and hard to track down exact source even after cleaning 3x. Im starting to lean to the the oil leak is comming out of one of the two rear breathers due to excessive crankpressure (higher HP truck with ppump) . However I'm not sure what to do about it. Already have the 2 breathers. http://blogs.dieselpowermag.com/6817455/whats-new/cummins-vs-crank-case-pressure/ I've heard that a vacuum leak or turbo seal leak can cause that. Doubt its turbo as its new ...... Any ideas of input into this one. How to test vacuum leak/drawdown ...... and what do do about reducing oil leak. There is 0 blowby from the front oil collector at front, 0 blowby from the oil fill cap and I cant see any blowby at the source of the leak (tappet cover vents) whilst idle. Dont know if thats a clue or not ...... but engine seems real strong and healthy.

I had 2-3 on my old truck - never had an issue. New truck doesnt have one. The guy who built it says he was told by one of the main aftermarket builders not to worry with cooling down the turbo oil return ...... pure heresay right now ....... but Im pretty sure he had that conversation. Im actually going to PM the builder sometime next couple days ..... I'll post back.

Tested fine at the bench ..... - - - Updated - - - I jumped between the main battery cable attached to starter and the solenoid terminal where the two wires are - using a screwdriver. I'll take a regular gauge wire with alligator clip and do a direct bridge from the red wire of solenoid to positive of battery with key on start position (guess this is what your saying) ...... - - - Updated - - - Think its the relay ....... I swapped relays around ...... no difference - - - Updated - - - Well 1 new battery and 1 new fuse and she's alive. Dont know what the cause was. Leaning towards fuse ..... but I cant for the life of me remember if I checked it prior or not ...... :banghead: Either way - good to have it out and gave me a better look at the tappet cover leak I have deal with soon .... thx guys - - - Updated - - - BTW - how to test if there is an "overdraw" on the batteries with ignition off ??? Want to see if there is something drawing down on the batteries (or not).

I'll do that in morning :)2000 4x4 3500 srw built auto ppump. Two wires to starter solenoid one red and one black guessing you mean check if the red one is getting power ..... Can't think neutral safety switch is bad as truck was working fine until parked whilst went away for 9 days holidays ..... came back and voltage low and no crank Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Kinda what I thought too but unsure what else to look for except start chasing ignition or wiring issue Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Possible if one battery was bad wouldn't crank at all ? Also .... how to find out what was drawing battery down Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Couple pics Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

I jumped it and nothing happened but sparks Pulled starter and batteries to auto parts warehouse Starter and driver side checked OK Passenger side with low voltage bad cell Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Might need to find a keyless alarm and entry system .........

New to me 2000 dodge ram with ppump conversion. Let the games begin. :lol:Got home from holidays. Truck wouldn't turn. Noticed batteries seemed dead . 10.6 V. Charged them up .... primary is holding 12.6 and secondary 11.8 (might have to replace). However truck will not turn at all.Checked the starter was getting 12V at the main terminal (large wire).Switched relays for starter around ....... no difference.Don't think it can be the fuel shutoff solenoid - as it would still crank wouldnt it just not start.So thinking I bumped something on the starter or something around that ........ideas ??

But I'm thinking you need to have a keyless receiver from factory right ? Not as simple as just adding a fob Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Such as ? (Link ? ) Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Sorry guys - figured you all understood my spanglish .......... I mean central door FOB locking .......... for locking the doors via FOB

How do you enable/add central locking to a 2nd gen that didnt come from factory ?

Don't disagree - except all after market builders supply one But yes haven't seen any data. I have two trans coolers and a deep pan and I generally run 150 degrees or less on my new 2000 truck. I like the pans for service - but a $30 tap and plug will do same on that front.

Thx !!!Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk