JOHNFAK

Hey jimWhat were the mileage results with the diff injectors ?Stock+80HPRV275Did you end up getting any of them pop tested.

yeah sorry man - this sucks - we all been here. There were even guys talking about class actions they were so upset with it. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-repairs-replacements/16046-vp-44-pump-lift-pump-failures-explained-article.html http://ezinearticles.com/?1998.5-2002-Dodge-Cummins-VP44-Injection-Pump&id=794753 http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/ISB/vp44_reliability.html Basically - your looking at around $1k for a new one ....... *ouch* Like everyone mentioned - depending on existing lift pump - you need a high pressure lift pump LP and some gauges to monitor. LP is around $500 I think- FASS or AIRDOG , gauges as cheap as $50 but probably $150 for good one. Installations is not too bad (although I didn't do mine to be honest) as it happend straight after I got my truck and hadn't gotten my hands dirty on it yet ........ jkidd or one of the vendors here can help you out. good luck:thumbup2: --- Update to the previous post... INSTALL VP44 http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-replace.htm INSTALL AIRDOG http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm

FYI - I just had my highpressure line replaced, my heatercore/evaporator replaced behind dash and all charged back up .......... leak - same as you . The place I had it done said it was a bolt on the rear of the compressor. I didn't see it as wife took it in - but she says she saw the die. So another place to check ....... soap /die etc. friggin frustrating .........

parachutes - thats what you need ISX crazy stuff - imagine the fuel bill on that sucker and the $100k build.

eeek :P

Yeh - going in circles on this one. Good news is its not stalling - it is under load (rpm drop) though when she starts though. I changed the config on my edge to montor ECM voltage and basically sat a consistent 13.6-13.8V during startup and into 'D'. I just find it weird the sequence of events Injectors->Truck then starts to hard start about week later (feels like battery not fuel/load etc where it ticks for more cycles before it engages engine ) -> Truck then starts stalling. Replace batteries - no more stalling. If my gauges are ok (I think they are) my fuel doesn't jump around, 14PSI a WOT at 16-17 normal. My idle is good around 800-850 rpm. Just the shifting of gears. Might have to get the alternator checked if I can before leaving on my trip. Else I guess could be a fuel issue - SASQAUCH had that for a little while - new fuel 1 time fixed it and also additive 1 time fixed it. will keep monitoring - trying to pick up pattern or other ideas. --- Update to the previous post... hmm - who's got an auto similar to mine - wonder how much the RPM drops from idle when they move into gear ...........whats a normal drop

yeah thx guys - great info - but starting to sink Sure - I'll drink a beer and watch/listen ISX THAT I CAN DO !!! lmao

Can you turn the a/c off ( i have had it on a lot lately) to prevent clutch from engaging - and disconnect the alternator to see if any difference in drawdown of RPM/voltage. ISX - my edge juice does have a volatage display for ECM - will keep a look out on that http://www.edgeproducts.com/product.php?pk=52&pvk=142 * Engine Control Module Voltage

hmm - that would be intersting ................... but along with the voltage side we still have the drop of around 400rpm ?? Is it possible to increase the idle rpm say +100rpm without too much issue ? I know thats not fixing the issue - but would potentially prevent the stall right ?

Yeah - I posted and then realized I don't have a pic of the completed job - as I had to finish off my tranny cooler and make a 300 mile trip home - and now she has bugs comming out of all ears !! Will spray her off and post pics next day or two. With regard to the clips ... man what a PITA --- I tried various epoxy/gorilla glue with old clips and new clips - juts not strong enough when you try and put in back in. So my dad said try some bolts .... I thought that was a dumb idea- but I put one in on side and sprayed it balck - and looks friggin awesome - kinda like a studded fender flare. So thats what I used - flush and looks great. Will post pics soon

ok - so this morning after its obviously sat for ~ 10-12 hours it did draw down more than yesterday afternoon. But it didn't stall ....... felt like it was somewhere inbetween. It had been consistently stalling prior to the battery change (for about 5 days). So - I need to think/monitor this a little to see if I can pick up/validate its related to electrical/other ? Is there anyway a faulty/damaged component such as alternator/ac compressor could put a LOAD on the engine when moving from 'P' to 'D' ?? I dunno - didn't think so but if it was electrical ?? ......... Also cause I never paid attention before ....... when I drive - the Voltage in cabometer is dead centre 14V. When I start her up its anywhere between 11-12V ....... thinking thats normal ........ but if its not wondering if that could tie to a bad alternator or ac compressor ?? Still not sure how that would pu a load on engine .... could be clutching at straws here .... Can oreilly's etc do a test on alternator without pulling it ? Or do you have to take it off truck ?

__need to update with a pic of all done and cleaned back together ___

BasicallyRemoved bull bar - painted MATT BLACK rather than gloss.Removed all bumpers (upper and lower trimPainted grey lower bumper BLACK (sandpaper first).Painted upper trim.Struggled for ages with epoxy and plastic tabs - gave up - used carriage bolts instead and sprayed Cleaned my lights from dull brown to sparking white - restoration/sanding kitPut it all back together.Shows cleaned leans with lens restoration and gray bumper before I painted black - had lots scratches alsoShows upper trim which I resprayed blackShows back bumper panel - 1 resprayed (after) and one as off trauck (before) Shows before image of back of truckShows all my gear off for sanding and sprayingShows truck with bumpers and bullbar off

Hey guysok - here is my tranny cooler setup. Brief as possible with pics. Thanks to jim (SASQUACH).Built frame with screws/bolts and square metal tubing lowes.Purchased metal mesh from lowes also and cut to match inside of frame. Allow air in - no rocks.Drilled Angle Iron into frame with tapping screws.Used threaded metal with lock nuts in cross member so I could adjust and lock height of frame (and for removal if I need later).Attached Cooler Frame to Angle iron bolted on truck frame and threaded metal on crossmember skid plate.Cut COLD (INLET) lnlet line at front of truck directly out of OE cooler.Ran 1/2" tranny rubber hose to cooler now bolted in frame behind transfer case. Connected all up with tapered connections.Bought a sealant and 8AN fitting from lowes to go direct into tranny.Installed wiring from battery to switch in cab to tranny and grounded off frame.JBWELDED the angle iron on frame for temporary support. Will get flat bar physically welded on one non-supported corner as soon as I can.

GUESS WHAT ?? I replaced the battery's - well wife did (see other thread) - NO MORE STALL !! I need to check in morning as this is when I normally start it up - but it doesn't even feel like stalling after sitting for 4 hours !!! WOO HOOSo ??? What the heck ???

ok ...... so by using a relay do you mean a relay like what we have for some of our existing circuitry - like our horn, lights whatever ? eg buy a xAmp relay and use that in spare slot ? Or do you build the relay from ground up ? Might need isx to show me this one when I see him next

Man - well that all makes sense except the part if I need to replace or not Well rang the wife - and she decided to replace them - so I guess thats that - hope its not the starter and just wasted $250. When will this crap end ...... thanks guys --- Update to the previous post... At least you could jump start a freighliner if they were stuck ........ or run some floodlights for football practice

ok - thanks guys So - if one is 550 and the other is 650 - then thats 1200 CA across the board right ? So do our starters require 600 - then seems should be enough ?? Just seems to be starting harder than before ......... but does start

My primary is 650 cranking Amps and the secondary is 550 cranking amps. I can get new ones from midas for around $120 each - rated with 750 cranking amps Should I just replace the right one (550 cranking amps) .......... ??

ok - don't laugh How do you tell a battery really requires changing and won't hold a charge anymore. To be honest - I don't know Along with my stalling issue - my starting seems to be harder - and it seems like a battery. I added 2 stroke (for general reasons) and drove for like 20 miles to let the alternator charge her up. Got back ..... and turned engine off with lights still on. Saw the voltage needle drop pretty quick from 14V to around 10V. The battery says 10/07 .......... no other indicators If I need a battery - how to tell if 1 or 2 ? - and any recommendations on where what to buy ? --- Update to the previous post... Found this http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/001227.html There is actually 3 different ways to test the battery. One would be a voltmeter to check voltage. This requires a some what reliable voltmeter or multimeter. I think the full charge voltage is 12.7 to 12.9 volts. If the voltage is only 10 volts or so, that is an easy indication of a bad cell in the battery. That checks voltage but it really doesn't mean that the battery can handle a heavy load. It may handle electronics(Radio, GPS or VHF radio) but may fail to start an outboard or run a trolling motor for very long. The second method is with the load tester. The load tester can be used even if it still installed in the boat or vehicle. It is as simple as connecting the clamps to the positive and negative posts. A spring loaded toggle switch is actuated for 5 seconds and a reading is displayed on the meter. It places a dummy load of close to 100 amps on the battery. You do this while watching the meter on the load tester. It is calibrated in voltage and if voltage readings scare you, it has a scale which reads BAD, WEAK or OK. 5 seconds is long enough time to be engaging the starter motor on an outboard or vehicle. If you boat motor takes longer or if it takes multiple tries to start the motor, that can be simulated with the tester also. Just actuate the switch on the tester to mimic what your starting procedure is on your boat. I like this test. It comes as close to what your battery actually needs to do, to produce the CURRENT(not voltage) to turn the starter. The third way is by measuring the specific gravity of the electrolyte. This is the most accurate way to test a battery, but most people don't want the extra work involved to accomplish accurate results. You need a temperature compensating hydrometer to do this. They are available at some auto parts stores for $20-40. Guessing then its not something I can do at home to well without some load tester

thanks man !! good stuff Someone exaplain relays ??? In a very basic way., I have NO IDEA. I bought a 120V 10A switch from home depot - thats the one I am using http://www.lowes.com/pd_75666-1071-161U_0__?productId=1100285&Ntt=toggle+switch&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dtoggle%2Bswitch does that mean I only need a 10A as the switch itself is 10A ? I guess I still need to confirm the 'A' of the fan Any drawback to using a 30A fuse when all you need is a 10 A ?? Guessing something to do with it won't break the circuit early enough if their is an issue and result in the thing your trying to protect breaking ?

k - thanksyeah only line I cut was where the soft line fitting comming form the OE cooler up front joined to the hardline that goes into tranny. Didn't think there was a check valve there - but wasn;'t sure. Going to try and tee up with ISX and replace the injectors to stock and see what happens - plus I can learn to do that part right - and he can play with a realtruck (24v) hahah ........ inbetween then I am going to disconnect my edge, add 2 stroke, and add some fuel additive. Need to recheck my fluid levels - but doubt thats it .................. don't think I am in TC lockup - as when I do move - its not as strong as when I am locked up ....... but still acts like it wants to die.

Hey guys.Thanks for the info. Unsure about bearings,seal for TC or TC pump. Not saying its not that - as obviously I have no idea - but basically how would you check it without just replacing the TC and pump and seals ?? The check valve - interesting - but again not sure. I thought the check valve for the cooler (OE) was in the cooler itself on these trucks - or very close to it. Only thing I could think of here - is I did cut out that line I show in my TOP pic - is it possible there was a check valve there ?? Beyond that - my issue is starting to sound more and more like Jims (SASQUACH). I haven't had the hard starting - although yesterday it did start to happen ........... but it felt more like a battery issue rather than a 'hard' start. I need to keep an eye on this and update. I guess I am leaning to something with a connection or the injectors themselves. Only reason being is that it only started when the injectors were put in. It always drew down on the engine when it went into 'D' - but never to the point it felt like it would stall. Since injectors - now it does. I think jim fixed his with soldering connections and new injectors. So - gonna try the things I have an ability to fix ...... like connections, fuel additive, 2 stroke and see if anything changes. After that - I think I might have to try and get my stock injectors back into the truck ....... but injectors make me a bit nervous - so not sure. Need to check on that check valve - make sure it wasn;t cut out of the tube I cut ......... would be only other thing - anyone know where the 47RE check valve (s) are ?? thx

thx guys

Thanks man Any links to these adapters you mention to pierce the wire to get voltage etc ? Fuses - but what determines if you use a 5/10/15A or a 30A ? ....... I wasn';t sure what the rating was on my fan so just went with a 30A as its seems to be around the highest for 12v.