cbrew

Morning and thank you for the response, the lift pump is an Airdog 2 165 and i will be upgrading to the G4 motor and pump as part of the project, while the old motor and pump are running fine, they are pushing 7 years old and about 80k miles. so it will be replaced. that said, it has its own relay that is already drawing from the battery directly, but using the ECM to trigger the relay. after looking at the diagrams, this signal is triggered from the VP44 directly, likely turning the pump on fire fire-up (you know the 10 sec bump of the lift pump) and thinking back when the VP44 crapped out 6 years ago, the lift pump would not turn on until the reman vp44 was installed and connected. I picked up the harness from larry b for the solenoid i have for the p7100. while i still need to look, it has at least one relay. I already am planning on running relays to power the solenoid and lift pump, I just need a signal source that has power at run and start position. the ECM will remain for now, I just need to figure out where i can secure it,. the p7100 is long enough to require ECM relocation, the harness does not have enough wire to relocate to the fire wall or frame rail. I will hunt down that wire you called out. I will also probe the vp44 harness, Worst case, I can run a simple hot wire but i know that is the last resort.

Hi All, I have a question, I am in the home stretch of swapping my 24v i am needing to tap for key on power for the lift pump and fuel shutoff, those that have p pump swapped their trucks, where did you tap in for key on power? just looking for ideas before i get to that step Thanks.

the LarryB kit arrived, it was time, $35 and change to my door step and i have a starter the kicks like new

i just placed the order for the contact kit, if it needs more, i will order the rest of the parts and drive the First gen

ok Thanks

so you all just thinking the contact kit to start with? i see the contact kit, http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge-denso-starter-solenoid-kit-89-2006.html easy kit http://www.fostertruck.com/cummins-dodge-denso-starter-easy-rebuild-kit-94-06.html and the complete kit http://www.fostertruck.com/cummins-dodge-denso-starter-complete-rebuild-kit-94-06.html

I am ordering the kit tonight. I have new cables on the way so i will do the repair at the sametime, i looked over the starter and shes starting just fine. So i think the risk is low to continue until parts arrive

Ok great. Thanks i will get one ordered

That is an option. I just checked the starter. It is tight. I will start searching for a rebuild kit.

ok, well i am getting ready to inspect it, just so i know its not lossed up on me, i am looking at 200 bucks for a new starter and able 150 for a reman, I will budget it in. truck is at ~160k

Question, what is the normal or usual reasons for a starter to hang? I walked out of the office, fired the truck and it was the strangest damn noise, once i realized what it was, I shut it down, restarted normally, home now, tried to reproduce it and it seems to be fine now. I have the truck on ramps cooling at the moment and going to inspect the starter to make sure its not lose etc. it was the damnedest thing FYI, i just replaced the batteries and the truck has a very brisk start to it now. is the starter getting worn?? Thoughts?

have you run a continuity test on the field coil ? you should have 12v on one pin of the field connector (Blue wire IIRC) but its a 50 % chance if the two above are true, then i would look at the bridge again

your right, good, then i dont need to worry about my ECM. which makes more sense with the unit i linked from the autoparts house I stand corrected,

the built in regulator failed and instead of failing open (killing the alternator) , it started applying full power to the field and proceeded to cook it. it was funny, I was dropping my wife off, nothing seen out of wack, right after pulling away i started smelling burning/hot wire, and i saw a wave of smoke from that side of the hood, pulled over and the alternator was cooking pretty good by then, at idea the voltage stay around 15 volts, i decided to move truck and just off idle the voltage started climbing. so i had to sit for a few minutes to let the process complete, when the voltage dropped to 12.8 volts, i drove the ole girl home. just figuring / hoping something was screwy with the old alternator, I through the new one on and with in 30 to 45 second the voltage started climbing and once it pasted 15.5 volts i shut her down. looked everywhere for bad grounds broken wires, etc. nothing. the best i can think of is the circuit path with in the ecm for the reference voltage broke so as far as the regulator circuit knew, it was not charging to spec and kept increasing the output. so after taking the article i found here for the external conversion, I applied a few changes, shes been rock steady at 14.4 volts at the batteries with less then .020 ripple voltage not the best solution because i lost the battery temp system and i am sure that is what finally took out my 13 year old batteries. (over charging with the heat we have had this year. (not the hottest on record) )

yeah, very likely, I was searching when my ECM decided to burn up my alternator. i have been using the external regulator setup with great success. I would like to have mine rebuilt, but i want to find a local provider (unlikely) the ole 12 v is looking better and better LOL

any one know if an ECM relocation kit exists, you know the engine vibration is not good for it

hmm,, they can, in fact IIRC to take advantage of options like 3 cylinder warmup etc. some of the early ecms need to be flashed with the newest firmware. it sounds like you was speaking with what i call a windows licker. ;) that said, having your own ECM rebuilt is not a back idea, i know the ferd guys are doing with the 6 slows (we are not the only ones with weak ecms) LOL

yup yup yup,,, that first gen restore it looking better and better,, I did price an ecm from oreilly auto parts, they wanted a little under $500. but its still needs flashing with the Vin and current mileage (iirc) http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Computer/C0396/C0334.oap?keyword=ecm&year=1999&make=Dodge&model=Ram%2B2500&vi=1377569

if you do move forward, i would plan on replacing the frame, maybe even find a gasser (v10) from the states, they can be had for a song and swap in the frame. I completely agree, an unmolested 2nd gen is very rare.

cool, keep us posted, because these little gremlins these trucks have, I have decided to restore my ole 92 first gen, at least being straight mechanical , I know an ECM will not leave me on the side of the road and once complete, sell my 99 (install the ole 12v with the manual trans in it LOL)

just looking at the pictures of the frame, I also have the same concerns, the fact that fender etc was replaced, tells me either it was wrecked, or so much cancer that required replacing, if its the later, i would be be looking very closely at the frame superstructure.. beautiful truck from the outside, but it may just be lipstick on a pig.

I have seen this symtom before and disconnecting the batteries and letting the ecm reset fixed the issue. question, is your truck manual? if so you may have a noise electric system, in autos, this will cause funny shift patterns and random TC lockup drop ins and outs. if this was mine, I would disconnect all four battery clamps, clean, inspect and reinstall, re calibrate the apps (this is required any time the power is disconnected) and see if that addresses the issue Just my 2cents

in my picture, my cable ends are shot, too many times removing and cleaning them, the lead is breaking down. I am going to order the replacement ends that Genos sells, just going to cut the old ends off, clean and tin the cables an install. I believe i have put my finger in why our control mods have a fit with any noise in the system other they a bad design from the get go. in some cases the issue is caused by a bad diode bridge in the alternator. but in my case. that was not true, my condition existed with or without the alternator powered up and even when it was not hooked up to the system. after thinking about this, it dawned on me, what i was battling was a ground loop. when the connections was bad on one of the batteries, the ground reference was no longer on the same plane across the system. this causes all kinds of issues with noise, any one ever fight an alternator whine the stereo when an external amp was installed? it is normally caused bad a bad ground between the headunit and the down stream components. this is explains why the problem goes away with a good cleaning of the clamps. I am thinking of running a heavy ground cable across the radiator to cross connect the batteries just like the hot wire. this will guarantee the ground reference is at least on the same level at all the grounding points that connect directory to the secondary battery. even it the connection goes bad (lose or corrosion). I hope to be replacing the batteries this weekend. (had to wait for my non mortgage paycheck). i just wanted to share what i have found cause i did not see it covered else where. have a great day!

Update well since the time of the start of this thread, the issue returned. after doing more research. I have concluded that my batteries after 13 years are due for a replacing. but with as many times as i had to clean the posts, the lead clamps have seen better days. so far i have not found any off the self replacements for the cable. i keep getting (they will need to be custom made) I have found these, anyone using them ? at Genos my thought with using these is to cut the old end off, strip the wire back, tin it and this install and seal with shrink wrap i did some more trouble shooting and completely ruled out the alternator. there is only a 20mv difference at the battery's with and with out the alternator. the TC issue was present with and without the alternator in the system I cut the alternator by cutting the sample power and removing the 140amp fuse. this is what the primary ground clamped looked like after a few weeks. the issue went away with a complete cleaning and apps resetting. i also uploaded a picture of the tag on my batteries, if i am reading that right. they date back to 03/03/02 so new batteries are in order cause of the leaking and i want to address the clamp issue at the same time. so where is everyone buying new cables? or are they just replacing the clamps? Thanks again

correct something is causing the corrosion, I get that, the first time i cleaned them, I had to remove a black crust, there is something that causes that, as for noise, the alt was scoped and the peaks was less then 10 mvolts at idle. and 0 with cut on my fluke. it may just come down to needing to replace the batteries. you talk about an engineering failure.