mark402001

Hey anybody happen to be in the Billings Montana area that could get me to an auto parts. Called them and short of staff. Can not bring me a fuel filter. I pulled my filter to check for trash. Looks good but now have a no start. Hope it's not the lift pump. I have almost half a tank of fuel. Just put this lift pump in last year. Thanks

I have not gotten any check engine light or anything like that. Ok I will see about trying to find a way to get the codes. Kinda hard getting around with a big trailer. Just hope it doesn't quite again

2008 6.7 I have no way to check fuel pressure. I have always used howes diesel additive. I opened the drain on the fuel filter and got good clean fuel. No water or trash that I can tell. I seen on another board to set back to stock. Disconnect both batteries then touch positive and negative together to discharge capisitors in the ecu and wait 5 minutes then connect batteries back and drive for a ways then reinstall the smarty. Has anyone heard of this. I will be heading into the mountains when I leave here and don't want to get stranded. I am on an iPhone and I don't know what the signature is and don't see anything about signature.

Hello all! I am from Texas. I am in Billings Montana at the pilot truck stop near the I90-94 split. Last night in North Dakota about 20 miles from the state line I got the message service required see dealer now and lost a lot of power. I stopped for the night at beach. I plugged in my smarty race me pro and did not have any codes. I went ahead and cleared it twice. I increased the power to level 3. I was at 0. I fueled up and got about 20 miles from billings and it started again. This time it shut down on me. I again check for codes and had none. I went ahead and cleared them twice and then did the break pedal twice accelerateor twice. I finally got it started and about 9 miles out it started up again. I got into the pilot and opened the drain on the fuel filter and got good diesel out. I have 465000 miles on it and have been deleted for a couple years now. I got this once before and cleared it and it went away for about a yr. I am pulling a 35 foot 5th wheel to Seattle for delivery. Any suggestions as to what it could be. I don't want to leave here and get stuck out in the middle of nowhere. Thanks

Well I broke out the cutting torch and cut the bolts off. Orelliey,s had a set of camber bolts. Got everything done except the top one next to the exhaust pipe. That one looks like it's gonna be a challenge. I guess I'll have to drop the cross members. To drop the exhaust low enough to get that last bolt out. Bigger project than expected.

Napa had the control arms in stock so I just got them to save time. Still trying to get the camber bolt out. Tried one of those cheap harbour freight ball joint presses. All I was able to do with it was bend it. Lol! Sawsall I just ruined a few blades. Fixing to try the cut off wheel then the cutting torch as a last resort. Right now gonna take a break and drink a beer.

Thanks for all the advice. Now a silly question. How do you get the cam bolt out? Seems to be seized in there good. I would guess a sawsall with a metal blade?

I have an 08 2500 4X4 standard shift with 455000 miles on it. This is a work truck so no mods other than the deletes with the smarty sr. The front control arm bushings are shot. I am wondering if I should stick with oem or go to some kind of after market control arms? If I go after market what brand and where to purchase them? I just started to remove the drivers side lower and found the cam bolt froze up. I am fixing to invest in an air hammer to see if that will push it on out. When that back one just slid right out I thought this is going to be a piece of cake. Lol! Anyway if anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate them.

My balancer does not have a rubber in it. Mine is the solid type. I did all the deletes. I do not have any pressure guages or egt temp guage. I apologize for not getting back sooner. What type of 2 cycle and how much should I use? Thanks

Hello all who read this. Sorry for it being such a long read. I have an 08 6.7 2500 4X4 at 448,000 miles standard shift. I am almost stock as in I did a cal delete with the smarty race me pro. I keep it set at the 0 setting for fuel economy and that has worked out well. I went with a dual disc clutch when the stocker failed and started to slip under load. I also am using a K&N air filter in the stock airbox. I use my truck for moving travel trailers and a daily driver. The truck developed a vibration some time ago. First thought it was the drive shafts had them rebuilt tires balanced. Used to it would only vibrate on the road now it vibrates sitting still. I can look at the engine running and see it shaking just a little and as I increase the engine speed I can feel it in the whole truck sitting still. The vibration was there long before the new clutch so that is not the issue. I have been told maybe a harmonic balancer or motor mounts. However looking at the cost of those items I don't want to just throw parts at it. The injectors are quiet but I guess they could be going out with this many miles. I run the Howes fuel additive on almost every tank of fuel. On occasion when I have neglected to use Howes the injectors would rattle a little. Sounds kinda like lifters tapping. When that happens I just crank up the smarty to 3 for a little while to increase the fuel pressure along with some Howes and that seems to silence them. I keep up with the maintenance myself as in I do all my own work. The oil and filter is changed every 7-10,000 miles I don't use the dealer for anything other than warranty or recalls. This is my first diesel so I am new at learning about them. I am a very good mechanic as far as gasoline engines. Not real sure as to where to begin researching the vibration on a diesel. The motor has never been broken into other than front and rear main seals, valve adjustments along with a couple water pumps and one of them was under the 100,000 mile warranty. I am hoping to make a million miles before rebuild (fingers crossed). I understand that stock injectors have a specific number that has to be programed into the computer of the truck for it to run properly and the dealer is the only one with the ability to do that (not positive on that). I have read many post on here about 2 cycle oil and aftermarket injectors. I just want to clear up the vibration. I know if I take it into a dealer for diagnostics they are going to look at the miles and tell me a set of injectors or possible valve job. I know there are good dealerships and bad ones. A few yrs back I kept getting a check engine light so I stopped into a dealer ship while I was on the road and they told me they thought it was the turbo. I could see the tech guy pecking on his computer and ever so often look over his shoulder at my truck. Dead give away he did not have a clue. LOL Anyway I passed on the new turbo. Turns out the map sensor was bad and was throwing the turbo code. As far as the 2 cycle oil what flavor and how much per gallon of fuel? What about the aftermarket injectors? Which ones would you use? Sorry about rambling on. Any suggestions as to where to start on the engine vibration? Thanks.

I managed to get it cranked on Break cleaner. Got it off the incline and it cleared up. It is still running rough with a little smoke. I guess it is time to put in a new lift pump. When I got the truck turned around my fuel level is about 1/8th over a 1/4 tank.

Yes original injectors and pump.

I did. I put in another 5 gal. Yes gauges accurate best I can tell. Still no start. Just turn over. Sometimes will act like trying to start but not always.

I am stuck in Edwardsburg Mi. I have an 08 2500 4x4 standard with 420,000 miles on it. I been using the smarty sr with cal delete for about a yr now with no issues. It is set at the lowest possible setting for fuel economy. The other night I pulled in my buddies drive way and backed up on a small incline. The truck began running really rough like it was hitting on about 3 cylinders. I turned it off and waited a few minutes it fired up still running rough. I was a little low on fuel about 1/8 of a tank. The next morning I tried to start it but it would not start. It turned over fine but would not fire. I changed the fuel filter since I had a spare in the tool box. That did not help. It attempted to crank a couple times but would not catch. I checked the codes with the smarty but it is not showing any codes. I tried the spare key with no success. It now just turns over but no start. I am from Tx and would like to get back down there. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. This is the first time the motor has failed to start or given me any issues at all. I just need a starting point. I did open the drain on the fuel filter and turned the key on to see if the lift pump was working and fuel sprayed out. So I know the lift pump is working. I opened a line just a little coming off the rail to the injector and got some fuel on the intake manifold while attempting to crank it. I have read about cam sensor and crank sensor possibly being bad. How do you check them? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I would hate to have to drag it to a shop since I don't know of any here. My buddy is not sure about the local shops and how they are with a diesel and a dealer is out of the question for the prices. Thanks again for any in put or suggestions.