Nates1999

So I've got 4th gear hunt on my truck. It is intermittent. I've had the alternator tested every which way and it always comes out good, be it bench testing, on car etc. It's also pretty new. I've gone ahead and done that ATS fix to bypass the ECM, but immediately threw a p0123. I did an apps reset, tried to clear the code and still there. Truck runs ok, but I'm at a loss. I'm supposed to roll out for my trip on Sunday. Any thoughts?

Picked up the updated bracket from the local Cummins graveyard. 35 bucks was a bargain. Even came with a bonus bunch of bolts that had nothing at all to do with the bracket (they were sitting in all the holes like they belonged there... But didnt). Should have it buttoned up tomorrow.

Here's the silicone.

pulled it out. It was snug, but glued it. Now should be good. My rear support bracket was actually missing, and there was a bunch of silicone around the solonoid of my old pump. So glad I'm doing this.

So I'm getting ready to put in my new pump and really don't want to screw up the keyway. I know putting superglue on the key is recommended, and I'm wanting to do that, but my key is really on the pump shaft pretty firmly. Should I yank it out to superglue it or dab glue on the corner where the key and shaft meet?

Checked the valves again and found 3 of them tightened up after driving around after the initial adjustment. I readjusted and buttoned up. No real change, but at least now they are good. Took it to a local diesel shop today for inspection and peace of mind, and they gave it the all clear.

Hmm... the factory wire doesn't appear to be 4 gauge (per chart specs). Looks like time for a bit of an upgrade.

So my alternator wire is pretty ragged. I'm talking about the one that runs from the fuse to the alternator. I would really like to replace it, or at least fix it up a bit, but I'm wondering if anyone knows if it is actual straight wire, or a fusible link. I'm thinking it's straight wire as it has a fuse in line too. My thought is to have a new run made up with new ends, and either cut out the old wire from the harness or simply route new alongside. Thoughts? I'm thinking it's either 6 or 4 ga wire. Anyone know?

Still seems to be holding up ok. One item of concern was that the upper radiator hose (which I changed during the job), was leaking a tiny bit at either end. I used the factory spring clamps when I put the new hose on, so I'm hoping they were just tired and needing to be changed. I put on new worm style clamps and it seems to be doing ok. However.... I'm a bit of a worrier by nature automotively (despite a really good track record). More so for this particular trip that is coming up (we leave in a week). I'm really paranoid that there is a chance that I've got small a combustion leak into my cooling system. No evidence other than the leaking clamps, and rock hard hoses, but I'm still concerned. What could I do to set my mind at ease a bit. Only smoke of any color I get is a tiny black puff on start up (same as always). Temp gauge holds steady in the middle even when pushing it unloaded (haven't loaded up yet) Anything else I should check? As for injectors: Oil level is holding solid. a tiny bit of diesel is appearing on my intake when I drive I definitely hear a very slight, but new, noise when driving at low throttle that sounds like pinging, and the truck is ever-so-slightly less smooth at idle and very low throttle power is still strong.

I'm wondering if there would be any issue with replacing the whole "T" line assembly with 2 barbed banjo fittings (maintaining the stock check valve bolt at the VP44) and 3/8 3 way barbed T fitting and some 3/8 fuel hose. I bent my assembly pretty good when I pulled the head (forgot to unbolt the line bracket at the head when I pulled it), and I think I'm getting air in the system, as it now takes about 15 seconds to start in the morning. This is different from the barely touching the key I had before pulling the head. To replace the whole assembly from Cummins appears to be about $130, and you are still dealing with the crummy hard-line and rubber washer setup.

Well... It lives. New head went on ok. Got everything hooked up. Fired it up and all seems to be holding on ok. I guess time will tell. Should I go easy for a while? If so, for how long. I kind of want to beat the snot out of it for a bit before we head out on our trip to make sure it's all shook out. How long should I wait? I'm paranoid about people saying they get diesel in their oil after mucking around with their injection systems. This was my first time with mechanical injectors (yes I changed the o-rings and copper washers), what indicators should I look for? Smell? Rising oil level? If it happens is it catastrophic?

1350 is a good price. All I will say on the general board is mine was a unique deal at a time of much needed providence, and one I'm VERY grateful for.

To update my progress Got the head over to the machine shop without issue. Got a call from them yesterday that the head is pretty seriously cracked in lots of places, and is unsalvageable. Made up lots of new and terrible swear words to voice my feelings to the world. Explored options, and managed to work out a deal on a brand new factory assembled head, for not a whole heck of a lot more than it would have been to do my head originally. All in all a huge bummer, but not as bad as it could have been I guess. Head will be in today, and hopefully I can start buttoning everything up. Still waiting on my injection pump, which will be here friday, and a new IAT sensor, as I forgot to unbolt mine when I pulled the head and it broke the connector (new harness pigtail is coming Friday too). Really hoping for no more surprises.

Turned out that the specialty shop was not going to be able to see me for 3 weeks, and he was squeezing me in even at that timeline. Ultimately, a couple of the more solid mechanics in town (along with the specialty guy) brainstormed until they managed to get me into a shop they all felt would be able to do it. That shop was able to get it sorted out (don't actually know what they did as the owner was gone when I picked up), but they took care of it all, along with new brakes for not nearly what they could have charged. Whew.

Head is finally unbolted. Just need to lift it out. Hope to get the hoist tomorrow AM and get it to the machine shop. Just discovered that the rear lift bracket is missing though. Do you think I can just use a bolt run through a chain, or should I run out to the Cummins Ram Junkyard (yes... we actually have one about 20 mins away, they only do 2nd gen Rams and 7.3 Powerstroke Fords) and get one for $10. If I can just bolt it, does anyone know what size bolt it is? Ran my Headbolts through the ultrasonic cleaner a couple of cycles with some degreaser, and they look pretty much new (no pitting or corrosion). They all ring pretty good. They all eyeball the same length. Starting to warm up to the notion of reusing them (as I've been hit with a number of other big expenses on the truck recently). Only problem is that the Genuine Cummins top end kits no longer come with a stretch gauge for the bolts. Anyone know if there is anything else I can check on them. Might just take them in to the local Cummins folks and see what they think.

Not sure what you mean about the crossover tube reference. Tubes were fine. These are the end of the lines. I think I might try a tiny brass wire wheel on my Dremel.

Alright... Got the last fuel nut off, and had a couple of lines with some corrosion on them where they go into the tubes. What should I do to clean this off? Scotchbrite? Nothing? Is there anything I should do to clean them out?

Honestly that's the size of bucket I used, and I'm pretty sure they are only 3 gallons.

No... It's on there tight. No rounded corners. I just want to keep it that way. Cranked pretty hard with open ended wrench, will pick up a flare nut wrench tomorrow.

Is 3 gallons enough coolant to drop to take off the head? I don't want to waste any, as my coolant is only 5 months old, and was expensive. I drained 3 gallons into a covered bucket to reuse. Stupid #3 injector nut wont come off at the head... Not going to mess with the open end wrench I have. Off to get a line wrench.

Rental yard down the road has a towable hoist that should be long enough. I think I'm going to manage

Just went and measured. Looks like the actual usable length of the 2 ton hoist is only 43" from the Ram to the hook. Unfortunately due to my Ranch Hand bumper I'm going to need more like 50". May have to look into alternative removal techniques.

Scratch that.... UPS lost the package. Guess I get to do it old school.

REALLY? I heard it was 200.

I have to pull my head, and the hoist I had lined up fell through. I can either a new or used 1 ton HF hoist, and am wondering if it will reach our motors. I'm only using it to pull the head, as it's just me, and there are no handy trees around me to help.