Nates1999

Thanks all. Looks like we will take the highlander.

Hey all. I could use some advice regarding snow chains for my 2wd. We are going up to mammoth over Christmas and can either take my truck or my wife's highlander hybrid (also 2wd) which is front wheel drive. Both cars have highway tires, as we live in southern California. We will need to get chains one way or the other and was wondering which you guys think would be the smarter choice,so I can go ahead and order up. My truck is certainly more durable with my ranch hand bumper etc, but the highlander will have its weight over the front drive wheels vs the pickup bed, and it seems that having the chains in front might help a tad with steering and control. Thoughts?

So for someone who lives in Southern California with winter morning temps from 40-55 degrees and pretty short (8 mile) hops to and from work most of the time, is this something that is going to be of significant benefit?

So my truck has always had an intermittent problem with throwing code p1291, especially when its wet out (rare these days in California). PO told me when I bought it that if I ever had the CEL come on it was almost certainly a loose post connection sleeve at the relay (skinny wire press on sleeve) working loose. Ive generally found that to be the case, but im getting tired of it happening and am wanting to fix it for good. Ive already tried to pinch them slightly for better connectivity with limited success. Any issue with clipping them off and replacing with ring terminals to screw down? Anyone know the size off hand?

Back on the road. Thanks all.

Thanks. Now i just have to track down a stud. Local Cummins doesn't have it in stock. Hopefully my local NAPA can scare one up.

So.... What should i put on the threads where it screws into the cover? Final count was 1 missing stud w/ nut, 2 missing nuts, 1 hand tight nut holding the pump.

looks like I'm missing the bottom stud too. Red Loctite to screw into the front cover?

Turns out it was the injection pump. Just had a chance to check it out. Doesn't move a whole ton, but enough. Think I need to worry about the gear/keyway or just cinch the pump up to the cover? Thanks

So I noticed yesterday that I had a decent little puddle of oil under my motor yesterday when I went outside. Nothing huge, but more than the nothing I usually see. I'm having a hard time figuring what it might be though. I kind of figured it was the vacuum pump leaking, but I don't see an actual leak from the junction point between the power steering and vacuum pump. It might be coming from further forward. I'm getting most of the leakage down onto my pitman arm, then blowing over my front suspension etc. What I've Noticed: -Oil dripping down the driver's side near the frontish part of the motor, definitely somewhere behind the timing cover. Most drips down onto the pitman arm. -No leaking evident from tappet cover, and I think I can see it pretty good. -Power steering is down a little (between hot and add, when the engine is hot), but that's not surprising, as I know the hydroboost is leaking a tiny bit at the brake pedal, but I suppose it could be power steering fluid. -Oil might be down a hair (maybe half a quart), but it could be just from being on uneven ground. My Question: Is there anything I can do to pinpoint the leak? Anything I should be doing that might make it more evident? Maybe have someone turn the wheel while I'm under there with it running?

unfortunately mine is flush, otherwise it would be a breeze to get something under it

Finally got a good bit of time to spend on this today. REALLY having a hard time. Anyone have any insight. I unbolted the main harness which is the most in the way of everything. This gives me about 4-5 good inches of clearance, but I can't seem to figure out any way to get a screw started. Heck I cant even figure out how to punch a hole in this thing. It's a small plug on the left hand side of the pan between bolts 4 and 5. Kind of like a freeze plug as far as I can tell, but VERY small.

Well. I put on a new cap (again) and new clamps (used constant torque types) and it appears that the issue is gone... Yay! Clamps I was originally sold were way too big for the hoses. They "wormed" down nice and tight, but the new ones are MUCH higher quality. Hopefully all good now.

I just did all this with military clamps and am very happy with the result.

I don't know if anyone is running an enviroguard breather out there, but I just picked one up, and I need to figure out how to get the unused dipstick plug out to install the oil return line. I understand that different plugs were used over the years. Mine appears not to have a lip on it at all, and is just a cylindrical plug pressed in. Any ideas how I should remove it?

I believe our caps are set at 16psi. I replaced my old leaking cap with a factory dodge cap (which still leaked a little), and then a NAPA cap, which didn't leak at all before I changed the gasket. I never had any coolant seepage at the hoses before the gasket Hoses are rock hard most of the time now. Problem seems most noticeable right after cold startup. I think it seals itself up when it gets to temp.

Not sure about MLS. Yes I think I have combustion pressure in the coolant.

Coolant temps stayed pretty solid near the middle of my gauge. Never pushed high. Egts never got worrisome. Stayed under 1100 the whole trip. I never pushed boost over 25psi

Well... We are now back from our 2000 mile camping trip. All went safe and well. Pulled some serious (by California standards) mountain grades towing the 7k trailer, and was never let down. HOWEVER... There does seem to be some coolant over-pressurization happening, which I am guessing is the gasket. My hoses are weeping coolant out the ends with fresh worm clamps and the cap is leaking a little bit of coolant. By "a little" I mean an amount that has yet to make any difference in the catch can or the radiator, but it is definitely leaking out and leaving wet white trails all over. My cap is only 4 months old. The upper hose (where I'm noticing the leaks) is brand new, as are the worm clamps. I suspect I used too much oil on the bolts when I put them in (dipped with 5w30 when I should have brushed), which might have made the gasket swell, as there was a little oil coming out the side of the block/head seam when I was getting ready to torque them down after dropping them in. Problem seemed to be a little worse at altitude and somewhat intermittent. SO.... What do you think I should attempt next? I don't think I've got it in me to redo the gasket right now. It was WAY too much stress on the family last time around to have my daily driver down that long (even though I think I could get it done faster now). I'm thinking either a retorque of the new head bolts that I put in, or possibly bumping up to studs (which I think I should have done in the first place). If a retorque is in order what's the best process?

WOW! Right now in my area of California diesel can be had for about $1.20 less. 87 UL is around 3.85 and #2 is about 2.65 from our local truck stop

After tpping the correct wire all seems to be working well. Thanks all. Sorry for the chicken little moment.

WAIT!!! Just noticed I tapped the wrong blue wire. Crossing Fingers

I did it exactly like the ATS rewire, cutting the orange/blue wire and running another wire to apps blue wire and tapped in there without cutting. Previous owner had cut the black with yellow wire and run both cut ends back to the battery, like the suncoast version of the fix. Should operate the same as what ATS does as both wires reconnect at the battery. I appreciate the help and brainpower guys.

I'm going out of my mind here. We are supposed to get on the road Sunday, and now I've got the code that won't go away, and now it wont shift into 4th or lock up. Wife's going to KILL me if this isn't sorted out ASAP. Mike I might give you a buzz if that's ok a bit later after I try and undo what I did today. I DID replace all my battery cables etc. I'll check the PCM cable.

Well the alternator is only 6 months old. I've never had any reason to suspect it. Per your usual recommendation, I've had it bench tested twice, once at a chain store, and once at a old school alternator shop, both said it was good. Tested it on the car for AC and got .025v. The shop actually disassembled it and checked all components on it too. ATS is already done. Really just hoping to figure out why I'm throwing the code now.