Botlebruiser

I'll give this a try. Rotating with each hammer. I read something along those lines on cumminsforum too

Ok, so I've had a bad shake/wobble on the highway for a few weeks now. I had a third gen adjustable track bar with drop bracket, Carli Coils, Bilstein 5100s, TGC tubular upper and lower control arms and some nice tie rod ends and so I had my buddy install them.You really need a pretty nice spring compressor to install these springs right because they are so much longer than the oem springs. I had the rear u-join on the driveshaft replaced as well while it was sitting. It was the only bad one. So I've tried two different pickle forks, and a small press so far. I flipped the castle nut over and hit the top of the nut with a small sledge. They aren't even budging. The small one on the driver side, which is more like an edge isn't even very old and it's giving me problems too. So I'm curious if there is a trick to this. My truck has the HD steering which is the good stuff. Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm running an errand so I'll take some pictures and upload them when I get back in an hour or so.

Ok. So I'm going to go through everything I can today. I'm going to double check and make sure I have fuel and change filters and bleed the fuel system. I'm going to replace the cam sensor and the MAF and IAT sensor if I need to. Can anyone think of an issue that would cause me to have an engine light for those two sensors? Like something else being unplugged or a relay being bad? My buddy owns a shop up the street and I let him go through my vacuum lines and put a new 4wd actuator in. I'm curious if he didn't "unplug something" or loosen something up while he was digging around in there. Let me know if anything comes to mind. I'll always post what the issue is when I figure it out. I appreciate everyone's help.

I updated the description. Wrong issue.

Ok. I need to get it straigtened out asap then. See if that fixes my issue before I buy a new VP for no reason

Yea, I need to replace it. I'm just curious if that could cause this issue.

UPDATE: Ok, when the head went on my truck for some reason the key was turned on a few times with a bunch of the sensors unplugged. When I had them cleared the check engine light wouldn't go out. Most of the codes went away but I still had one or two. I've had to fix so much on this truck I've been a little overwhelmed on what to do first. Everything seemed fine with that stuff so I've tackled a bunch of other things. But now I have a P0113 and P0382. The truck stalled at a stop light the other night and wouldn't start. I don't have any codes for the VP. So I don't think its that but I know its always hard to tell. This is one of those weird problems. But I don't actually have the Camshaft sensor code anymore like I did.

Ok, after I installed 2 brake switches from O"Reilley's that didn't fix it I finally went to the Dodge dealership and bought an "OEM" brake swtich and it fixed the issue. It actually looks like the exact same part but the other two didn't fix the issue. So it's resolved.

So I definetly need to replace the lines that run from the hard lines in the engine bay to the cooler up front on the radiator. Right now they are old rubber lines. But I want to use steel braided hose and some nice fittings. The guy at the trans shop recommended 8am fittings. My question is are their fittings on the hard lines that are in the engine bay by the crank case vent or are they just like barbed on the end? That's the only thing I can't figure out. Thanks guys

Ok, so I got it figured out. I had two bad fuses. The brake light fuse and the trailer lights fuse were both blown. But that didn't fix the problem. I had to replace the multi switch. I read where a few guys "fixed" the flasher button on their multi switch because I guess they get "stuck"? But they had the EXACT same issue. I didn't try to fix it. I looked at all the wiring and everything seemed to be ok so I went and bought a new flasher switch and the multi switch thats on the column. It's a whole new assembly. It was easy to install and it fixed the issue. My brake switch does need to be replaced because it sticks but the reason they wouldn't light up at all is because the flasher switch was bad. I don't like it when guys don't post the solution to their issues so I wanted to be sure to let everyone know who tried to help what the solution was. I appreciate everyone's help!

I've pulled some other trailers and it did it exactly when I plugged the trailer in. I was checking the lights afterwards and I had nothing in the truck. Then, afterwards the guys dad tells me it did the same thing to his F150 lol. I'm sittin there thinkin "Why the hell would you let me use it then...." But oh well, all I can do is fix it. The filament in my brake light bulbs are not blown on either light. The filament in my brake light bulbs are not blown on either light. Where I think people are getting confused is I don't have any brake lights, turn signals, flashers or anything WITHOUT the trailer even hooked up. So my truck is sitting now. I get no turn signal indicator lights on the dash or the clicking sound when I turn them on and nothing happens when I hit the flasher button. My third brake light on the cab works as it should. Just nothing in the tail lights or lights on the front of the truck. But I've pulled multiple trailers and not had this issue. I've read the turn signal switch can get "stuck" and cause this. A few people with the exact same problem said that fixed it. So I'm gonna mess with that here in a bit. If not I'll go through the harness and connection back by the driver side rear wheel.

I'm sorry. No they don't work at all now. Even with the trailer unhooked.

New Issue: After I replaced the multiswitch on the console everything was fine. My buddy was behind me a few days later and said my brake lights don't illuminate when I hit the pedal. I checked all my fuses and my brake switch twice. They will light up the first time I hit the pedal then they don't light up anymore. Anyone have any ideas? After I hit the brake pedal once I don't get anything. I'm guessing all of these issues are tied together in some way. Resolved: My 3rd brake light switch fixed the issue. The first two must have been bad. I finally got one from the dealership(it was actually cheaper than O'Reiley's) and its fixed. I hooked up my buddies trailer this morning with his 4wheeler on it so we could use it to go hunting. I plugged the trailer in and went to check my lights and none of the trailer lights worked. I hit one of my turn signals and neither of them work. It doesn't make the clicking sound or show the indicator lights on the dash even with the trailer unhooked. My flashers don't do anything either. My brake lights will light up with my running lights turned on but nothing happens when I hit the pedal. I had to replace the fuse under the hood for the brake lights but it didn't look like any of the other fuses were bad. I am going to check the bulbs in the morning and update this thread. Obviously there is something very wrong with the wiring on this trailer. I'm sure it's a pretty major ground issue or something like that. I've pulled a couple other trailers and not had this issue. I'm curious if anyone has seen anything like this. Any suggestions are welcome as my truck is sitting at this point until I figure it out. Thanks in advance.

I have a 99 automatic and a brand new 15x5 SLM Enclosed trailer. The brake lights and turn signals work but the trailer has a bunch of LEDs and other running lights on it and they don't light up. They won't light up on my buddies 2000 24 valve dually either. Only the brake lights and turn signals work. So I'm curious if any of you guys have ran into this before. It's a 4 way flat and I'm using an adapter to plug up to the stock plug that comes on our trucks. I tried to call SLM but they are closed until Tuesday. I wanted to try to figure out what's going on this weekend. Any ideas?

I think you have me mixed up with one of the other guys. I bought my truck knowing the transmission was shot. Firepunk built me a trans and it ran ok for a month or so as far as the lockup issue went. But then it started happening. I realize its a bandaid but I have to get back and fourth to work. I will replace the alternator if need be for sure. In 3 months the truck got a rebuilt trans, brand new head, valve springs and studs, wheel bearing, starter, wheels tires, programmer etc haha. I'll take care of it. I just don't want to throw parts at it as a trouble shooting method. It doesn't do it consistently enough typically to unplug the alternator. I would have to pull over and unhook it when it started doing it. I just can't do that on my way to work which is what most of my driving consists of. But that is good to know, if the filter resolves it I'll know for sure I need to replace the alternator. There's good info on this site.