SLEDWRECKER

Ccd stands for chrysler collision detection. Few things can make that show up. Could be the plug on the cluster or even the harness that plugs into the pdc under the hood, it has a bolt that goes threw it that never gets tight, it just seems perma stripped from the factory. Just make sure they are all plugged in securely. I think there are other things that can cause it too these are just my experiences.

I think the BD kit actually swaps the vacuum to the unlock side so you have a positive pull towards disconnect where as if you just plumb a air/electric valve in the lock side then your collar would not be "pulled" to the unlock position. I had a posi lock on one of my previous trucks and i got along with it fine, however it was not wife/kid friendly when it was needed as you kind of had to coax it in and out while moving the truck to find the "slack". I am gonna try the BD one next......just as soon as i get my motor rebuilt. Lol

01/02 don't have a crank sensor. If you do this swap you will need to swap your 00 crank shaft along with your front timing case and cam gear into the 02 motor.

Our shop has a test box that will plug directly into the VP pump and it allows you to run the engine at idle and high idle, i dont know what the exact rpm's are but it basically just tells you if the problem is mechanical or electrical. If its mechanical then it should still run bad whereas if it electrical then it should run normal. I think it would be beneficial to locate one to try.

Yep still got it.

Not sure if the injectors have anything to do with the code your getting for cmp. There is also a possibility that your cam shaft retainer is getting ate up a little and letting the cam walk forward, or it could have possibly came loose, either way if the cam walks fwd and the sensor cant see the tone ring then it will be confused at best. I know its a long shot but you've covered all the obvious bases already, its also not an easy thing to check. Not even sure if you could check it w/o removing the front cover?

No rhyme or reason why, other than just because. I do have a good used one for 125 shipped if you need one.

Its been sold.

I dont know about fuel economy. This is a truck i bought for resale so i've only drove it a little bit

Good guess Mike, I put a good used one on it today and problem solved Thanks for the help

Somebody must have a guess?

I have a 100% stock 01 3500 SC 4x4 6 spd 3.54, 190k. Fuel psi 8-11 after filter under load, clean air filter, no codes, starts and runs great but no upper end power. I have ran it with a solus plugged in an monitored boost and it says its making 30 psi, turbo feels good, no boost leaks, we have swapped ecm's and map sensor with no change. I have down loaded a smarty on highest setting with almost no change. No power and no smoke even with smarty. I have even disconnected exhaust with no change. Has anyone ever experienced a VP failure with these symptoms and no codes? I guess thats probly what i will try next. Open for ideas though.

I'm thinking the early 98.5's must've had the tappet cover breathers like the 12V's maybe? Mine had it too.

Until? They still are.

I just finished putting my 12 valve back in my 98 std cab after a complete rebuild. Imho it only takes about 5 min. To spin the 2 front body mount bolts and the 2 front cab mount bolts out and also loosen the rear cab mounts, put a hi lift jack under the front crossmember that the rad sits on and jack it up about 4-5" and shove a couple blocks between the front mounts. Makes the whole in/out job much easier, no need to remove the motor mounts or the pan or the valve covers.