striegel.t

All Thanks for the replies. I have a 4 month old daughter, so fabricating my own is not possible now due to limited spare time. I went ahead and bought an aftermarket replacement clip. Hopefully this one lasts longer than the previous one. @Bullet thank you for the offer, however I wanted to get this fixed sooner rather than later.

All Yesterday my parking brake cable failed me. The cable itself did not break, but the metal 'clip' or whatever its called that holds the cable from the tensioner to the cable going forward did. I called my local dealership to get the intermediate cable ordered since it comes with the metal piece I need, however they said it is a discontinued part. After shopping around a few online websites for the part I have not come up with any luck either (Part # 52010321AA). The diagram below is pointing directly at the part I need on # 10. I am hesitant to buy an aftermarket cable again since this part failed me in less than a year already. Does anyone have any ideas or recommendations on how to fix this so it does not happen again?

@Dieselfuture thanks for the recommendation, I will start looking into leaks this afternoon. As for your cable posi lock, I like that idea, or a CAD delete kit with manual hubs, but that will take a bit of saving up for. As for checking the vacuum leaks, does anyone have any tricks to help find these easily?

@Tom Robarts glad to hear you have everything finally, keep us updated with pics of the install please.

Thanks for the reply @mrclean, however I did fix the ABS issue earlier today and am just now getting to a computer. I replaced the front passenger ABS sensor and the dash light turned off. Now my next question will be about the 4WD light since the switch has been replaced. Since I know the 4WD switch is good, if the light is not coming on, but 4WD is engaging does this mean the CAD shift fork is only partially engaging and not triggering the switch? I would think if this is the case the vacuum shift motor or vacuum hoses could be bad or going out?

All I seem to be having the common problem of my ABS and Brake light on my dash being on, so I am following the document below, and it seems that my 4WD light does not come on when I shift into 4WD (been like this for a while though), so I replaced the switch last night. The truck will still go into 4WD with front tires pulling, but the light still does not come on. I did test the switch and the 4WD light will come on when I have the wire harness connected and I use my fingers to hold the switch down, but not when the switch is mounted in the axle. With this being said is this a different issue and I still may have a bad ABS sensor? Any insight on further troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated. Note I do not think it is the rear ABS sensor since my speed sensor is working.

So replacing the IAT sensor fixed my check engine light. Thanks everyone for the help.

Thanks everyone for all the advice so far. I did not notice any shorts in the electrical, so I am going to replace the IAT sensor after work this evening and see if that works. Ill update everyone after this gets completed.

So I have disconnected the High Idle kit completely and have noticed the Intake Air temp is still showing -40* and fluctuating up to about 115* Would this be from the grid heaters cycling? Also with the -40* IA temp would this mean the sensor has gone bad and need replaced? It is no where near that cold. Also the connections seem to be snug, so I do not think this is a loose cable issue. I do not think the High Idle kit has any issues, as when i flip though the settings the ScanguageII shows the respectable water/IA temps that it is supposed to be fooling. I was going to test with a volt meter at @W-T suggested, but I needed a third hand to hold the switch and another person was not available at the time.

@Mopar1973Man I reseated the connections yesterday at lunch with the same issue. I did not think to fully disconnect the High Idle Kit to verify if the issue still existed without the kit. I can do this tomorrow if you would like, as I will be out of town tonight with work. @W-T Thanks for the write up, I did not have time to test this during my lunch break but will verify this tomorrow evening as well.

All Please forgive me if this is a duplicate or stated somewhere already. I drove home about 3 hours last night and as I pulled into the driveway my check engine light came on. I had my High Idle Kit in MPG mode during the entire drive and did not notice anything out of the norm. This evening I pulled the codes and found P0113 and P1693. After work (cold engine as I didnt drive it today) I noticed with the High Idle Kit in the "OFF" position my Intake Air temp was showing -40* on my ScanGuageII (temp outside around 60*F). The truck also went into 3 cylinder mode shortly after. Would this be a bad IA sensor or something more complex? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Tim

Nevermind, I fixed mine, multi-switch went out and was not hard to fix.

Steve This just happened on my truck over the weekend. Did you ever find a solution? I have checked all of my fuses, and tried replacing the flasher relay with no luck. Where is the trailer relay located to check it? Thanks, Tim

All I completed the install this morning with no issues. My scangauge II proved that the harness does fool the ECM for all 3 modes, unfortunately my truck has not had the high idle enabled yet so my next purchase is the Smarty (I want one anyway). I have attached a few pictures below for the curious minded.

Thank you Nick, got your email. I will let everyone know how the install goes. It seems very straight forward. I will try to include some pictures as well.