Frog

Thanks, for all the input. Quick question....if yall connect with a decent scan tool, will it differentiate between the PCM and ECM? So, here is something I tried. Since I had a sneaky suspicion that my engine ECM was incorrect, I purchased a used one and found out that mine in-fact had the wrong ECM. It was for a 2001 not a 1999. I disconnected the PCM and then tried to connect with my scanner. During auto scan it pulled up the PCM and TCM...why TCM, I have no idea. So, of course I was getting a P1698 no CCD from PCM...which is expected. But the TCM, shows all my engine readings. I can even perform some active tests.....grid heaters, wait to start light and fuel pump. My scanner will cycle these functions on and off for approximately 4 seconds on and 2 seconds off. If I review live data then it is the same as before, high APPS voltage weird temps. So, I tired it the other way...disconnected the ECM and connected the PCM...of course it just pulled up the PCM. Now, the really odd thing is that when I would try to access the information on the selected control module, then it would just give me a hex a decimal location. With the ECM disconnected, it actually shows me the info...software, truck arrangement (2wd,4wd), year, make and VIN...all from the PCM. Well, this PCM is not from my truck cause the VIN does not match. But it does say it is a medium/light duty manual. Well, my next step was to connect the old 2001 ECM to see what it will do. When the scan tool auto connects it only pulls up the PCM. Under the PCM are all my active tests for the engine. No other ECM will come up....I have a pass thru that will detect the ABS, BCM, Anti Theft etc...I just didn't want to hook it up cause auto connect takes 10-15minutes. When I check live data, it shows the APPS voltage @ .488 and Position @ 0% as I depress the pedal the % goes up along with the voltage...voltage maxes out at 3.8VDC and I verified this at the APPS connector also. At this voltage the APPS is showing 100% So, am I going crazy or what? I called Autel and I have to call back tomorrow when I have more time to let them remote in to the scanner to see if a setting or protocol is missing or messed up. Should I be able to see two separate computers...PCM and ECM?? Thanks again. Yes sir, no change. Info from the PCM. I cannot access this if the ECM is connected. This is all I get with the ECM connected.

Ok. So, my ECM must be interpreting the voltage incorrectly, but, I’m not getting an APPS voltage high fault. I’d attach a video but it’s only allowing me to upload 14MB. My voltage is .483 at idle and 3.8VDC at full throttle. Not sure where the 160.5-160.8 volts is coming from.

Ok, let me ask this. When the scan tool is reading TPS/APPS voltage. Is it coming from the engine ECM or the PCM?

Guess I should clarify. I was doing a wait to start light test. It cycles it on and off, while doing so, the apps voltage fluctuates slightly. This is the only thing I have found that effects the voltage reading for the APPS.

Well, let’s hope my Autel MS906BT is capable and I believe it is. I have attached a fault code report and also a live data sheet. The odd thing to me is the AAPS voltage of 160.50VDC... I’ll attach a video too. The wait to start light is the only thing that will make it fluctuate. IMG_1866.MOV

Ok thanks! So, with it showing up in the TCM and PCM...with no other faults could it be another issue that’s not logging a code? I am using an Autel MS906BT...tried the key trick for retrieving faults and could not get it to work. One thing I did notice while viewing live data...APPS voltage shows 160.54, but no fault for APPS/TPS. Sorry, truck is a 1999 Dodge 2500 24 valve Cummins 5 speed 4x4. Thanks

Thanks guys. P0341 has been corrected with ECM replacement. Now the P1693 is my issue. I believe IBMobile is on to something. I was able to read that ABS fault and it came up with ABS Main Relay Power, or something to that nature. So, maybe the ABS is the culprit? One more thing. When I was viewing live data, it was saying my APPS Voltage was 160.5...is that even possible? I measured the voltage at the APPS and recorded 4.95VDC, while using the ground wire and a good chassis ground.

IBMobile...huh??? Will an ABS fault or SRS fault cause P1693? Or will it only be active from an Engine ECM or PCM fault?

Ok, so. I was able to find an actual 99 engine ECM. Installed it and cleared all the previous faults. P0341 and P0122 & P0222. Started the truck and guess what? No surging or bucking. Idle smooth. Took it for a test drive and scanned for faults and now I’m getting P1693 on the PCM and TCM, no other faults between the two. Now I do have an ABS fault and something with the SRS, but will this generate the P1693 or is it just between the Engine ECM and the PCM? I think my scan tool is seeing the ECM as PCM and the actual PCM as TCM. Another note, the P1693 will not go away if I try to erase it. So, any input will be greatly appreciated. Could be another bad ECM?? It seems to run really well and starts right up.

Ok, so I checked the wiring and it’s good. Now, something I did discover. If I disconnect the crankshaft sensor and start the truck...the tach will work for about 5 seconds then goes away, BUT it doesn’t buck and miss...it idles smooth. I drove it down the driveway like this and when letting out in the clutch slowly, the engine would surge up and down. Just making the loop in the driveway was all I did. Rescanned for faults and had..P0341, P0222 and P1689...🤮 P1689 freaked me out!!! So, I plugged the crank sensor back in and cleared the faults. Around the driveway again and no P1689!! So, that brings me to now...so I purchased an Autel MS906BT and captured the freeze frame data. I have attached a photo and I need to know what the Cummins faults are? I also, took a picture of the RPM’s for the VP, cam and crank sensors....is it supposed to be cam sensor (1) or just cam sensor with RPM? I ask because I think it might have the wrong engine ECM.

Thanks! I’ll be finishing up the rest of this tomorrow. So far everything is checking out.

Ok, so. I have read about the P0341 and possible solutions. Now the back story is that this truck had several faults and I was able to remedy 90% of them. It had P01689 & P01688..P01689 I believe is due to 56mVAC coming from my alternator. When I disconnected the alt. charge cable the fault went away. The P01688...had to replace the VP44. It also had P0222, which still comes up randomly, adjusted the voltage to .465VDC and APPS relearn and it is doing better. I keep getting P0341, it stumbles and idles rough then, it clears up and when it does clear up my tach quits working. So, I checked the wiring on both the cam and crank sensors. They all ohm out good and I am getting 5.05-5.0VDC while, utilizing the sensor ground and then the chassis ground. I’m gonna recheck some things tomorrow, but I thought I’d post a video so y’all can see what it’s doing. Any input and advice is greatly appreciated! Merry Christmas Y’all! PS...the screeching noise you hear in the background is my daughter being silly and is not my truck...LOL IMG_0983.MOV

Trying to upload a video.....give me a minute. Ok, the first one would not load for some reason. But, it fired right up!! i could not believe it. Sorry the video is sideways.....dang iPhone. IMG_3528.MOV

Well, went and looked truck over today. Cut out sections of the carpet and checked for rust and I did not find any. Installed new to me batteries, replaced the oil filter and cut the old one open....the oil looked really good and the guy said it had about 3k on the oil change when he parked it. I asked what kind of oil he used and he said he gets it from a company called Mantek.... I put put the rear tires on and covered the back windo to keep out anymore rain. Next I siphoned out some fuel and visually checked it...it smelled and looked good....so, I tried to fire it up....

I'm going to check the governor pressure first. Then I will be able to tell if it is the governor or the valve body causing the issue. I have an NV4500 but not all the stuff to convert it to manual...:(

$2000-$2500

Hello, I was wondering if I could get some input from everyone. I have the opportunity to trade a 2004 Miller Bobcat 225 Welding machine for a 1995 4x4 2500 Reg Cab Auto....the truck has 412,XXX miles and the front suspension was rebuilt about 10k miles ago. Now there is an issue with the trans, but I believe it to be the governor in the tail shaft of the trans, it has first gear and reverse. The truck runs and has been sitting for a little over a year, the paint is faded and there are a few dings on the body but not much. Oh, and the tail gate is missing. The back right window on the sliding glass is broken and the front main seal is leaking on the engine. With the window being broken some rain water has gotten to the truck and messed up the carpet. Other than the usual things, dash, batteries etc...those are the only real issues with the truck. He wants to trade with some boot money, but given the condition of the Miller, 85hrs and garage kept I think straight across would be a good deal for both of us. I was just wondering what some of you guys might do. Would you get the truck or sell the welder and try to find something comparable??

How long have you been beekeeping? My dad has been doing it for over 37 years....he also artificially inseminates queens and sells them. I helped as a kid....till I was 16. It is becoming a lost art so to speak...here is a website for him....if your interested....vlwbeequeens.com

Ok, so I heard y'all mention wanting photos and stuff on cutting open filters and checking for materials/debris inside. So, I thought I would put together a little how to for everyone. So, here is my filter cutter and an old knife that I use to cut out the pleats of the filter. I know it's not a diesel filter, but it will suffice for this how to, I place the filter in a vise to keep it stable while I am using the cutter. I remove the o-ring from the oil filter. I do this because it interferes with the cutting tool and has a tendency to roll up and get in the way. I place the cutter on top of the filter and tighten it until it touches the filter, then all you do is rotate the tool a couple of times and then tighten down the cutter a little more and rotate a couple more times....continue doing this until the filter is cut open. Here is the filter after a few rotations. Here is the filter with the base cut off. Now you can just pull the filter element from the filter housing. Now set the filter element down on it's side and use your knife to start cutting the first pleat, cut vertically. Then I count over 6-8 pleats and cut that section vertically. After making the (2) vertical cuts, I grab the bundle of pleats. Next I cut horizontally, to separate the selected section from the filter. Next, just pull the cut out portion of the filter media from the filter. This is the post filtered inner portion of the filter media. (Filtered Oil) This is the pre-filtered outer section of the filter media. (Unfiltered Oil) This is where all the metal/debris will be located. Inside of filter housing. Check for debris/metal in the bottom of the housing. Ok, now I am using a pig mat, but paper towels will work too. Place the pleats in a vise as shown. Next, crank down the vise and it will squeeze out the excessive oil from the filter pleats and allow you to see what is trapped inside. Now isn't that better!!! This is the unfiltered oil side of the filter media. (Outer Section) You can see some debris in this filter but no metal. This is the filtered oil side of the filter media. (Inner Section) This section should be clean....should be. That's it...see how easy that was!! I will post some more photos later of metal in some filters that I have cut open. If you do not do an oil analysis, this would be a good thing to do periodically or at every oil change...which ever you prefer. Some particulates are acceptable, some are not.....I will post examples when I can. I hope you all enjoy this and hopefully it will help someone understand how to inspect their filters. Frog

LOL!!! Now thats funny!! I don't care who you are!! Thanks

Congrats on the marriage! I have been married for 14yrs.....have 3 kids....13 (Boy), 9 (Boy) & 3 (Girl) So, I feel your pain on the money in the bank, mine keeps going somewhere, but I don't know where...LOL

Thanks Mike, I have visited the Cummins Swap section. I hope to contribute soon to the forum. Thanks again and thanks for the help earlier today.

Hello All..... Just thought I would stop in here and introduce myself. I am from Shady Shores, Texas and I am a Field Technician for Caterpillar (don't hate). I currently do not own a Mopar (Dodge) but I do have a 2002 5.9 H.O. Cummins and an NV4500 that I am in the process of rebuilding. After I do that I will be installing it into my 1957 Chevy Truck. Again, don't hate. I know I will have questions regarding my engine and transmission.....and that is why I am here. To learn as much about it as I can. Thanks for a GREAT forum Mike...and to all the staff at mopar1973man.com. Frog