SASQCH
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Everything posted by SASQCH
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Havn't driven it enough to get a mpg increase number. However, with the engine at operating temp in neutral at idle, the gph on my SG II shows 1.48 GPG using the factory IAT. When I switch it over to the IAT FOOLER and the pot is set to 140* IAT readout for the IAT, the gph drops to 1.33. That is a .15 GPH savings at idle. That is a hair over 10% gain. I'm hoping that holds true throughout the operating range. The couple of short runs I have done indicate that may hold true but it's difficult to get an accurate reading on the instant MPG readout on the SG II because it is always changing a little adjusting for the road and driving conditions. (slight grade, wind, other vehicle drafts, etc.) Jim
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When I decided to build the IAT fooler, I wanted it to be removable so I didn't have to cut the factory wiring harness. Mike pointed me to Casper electronics who sells a IAT extension. I also wanted to be able to switch between the IAT and the fooler. I also wanted the fooler to be adjustable.To this end I bought the extension, a double poll double throw mini dip switch (on-off-on), a 5K potentiometer, and 10 foot of18ga 3 wire cord. I built the control housing box from ABS plastic sheet I already had in the shop.
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Like johnfak said check your exhaust manifold on #6. they are notorious for coming loose and allowing exhaust gas to escape. Sounds just like a bad rocker clearance. I had it happen to me and when I replaced the exhaust manifold with a 3 piece one because it had a crack near the turbo flange, I found that the manifold gasket on #6 was 1/2 burned away. That is what caused the noise and it had blasted some of the insulation off the firewall right there making it louder in the cab. It's worth checking before you start replacing parts on the head. Start it up cold and have someone give it a little throttle while you check it for a leak between the manifold and the firewall at the head.Jim
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Just a minor point that came to mind --- Update to the previous post... I suspect that as testing continues we will find that the "best" resister value will change with the outside air temps. It may need to be higher with warmer air temps. That's why I am using a pot instead of a resister. If it turns out to be just one value is best, I can set it and forget it. Jim
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I should have my fooler setup in a couple of weeks. Thanks to Mike I ordered a 12" IAT extension cable from Casper electronics. http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?products_id=1503. Then I went to the local electronics store and found a double pole double throw miniature toggle, a 5K ohm potentiometer with knob., and a length of 3/c 18 AWG (0.824 MM2) type SVO cable. I am going to cut the + wire in the extension and connect it to one of the wires in the cable (white) and the other side of the cut wire in the extension to the second wire in the cable (green). Then connect the third wire in the cable (black) to the negative wire in the extension without cutting it. On the other end of the cable inside of the cab I will connect wire one (white) and three (black) to each of the two pols on one throw of the toggle (so I can use the IAT like normal). then on the toggle I will connect the + wire pole (white) of the normal throw to the first poll on the second (IAT fooler) throw (so one poll on each throw is connected to the + (white) wire). Then from the other poll of the second throw (green) I will connect to the potentiometer. The other connector of the pot will get connected to the third wire in the cable (black) that connects to the negative wire in the extension. With this setup I will have a T connector to connect to the IAT and the factory harness, A toggle in the cab to go between the IAT fooler and the normal IAT operation, and an adjustable potentiometer to set the IAT reading in fooler mode using my SG II IAT reading. I hope this will be a plug and play unit when I am done with it. When the extension comes in and I start to assemble this unit I will take pictures, make a wiring diagram, and keep a log so if anyone else wants to build one they can. Jim
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Here is some info on turbo balancing. http://www.tamparacing.com/forums/boost-lab-turbo-fuel-injection/667770-turbocharger-balancing-facts-misconceptions.html Jim
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ISX, what I made red is not exactly true. Component balance does not always equate to assembly balance. The thing is that nothing is ever completely in balance, it will always be out of balance. Perhaps by only 1,000 of a grain or less but never perfect. Something that is out of balance may be acceptable at 50,000 rpm but not at 75,000. When a turbine shaft and compressor are balanced together the imbalance can be compensated for by grinding on the assembly nut on either end of the assembly. I don't know what the imbalance specs are that are acceptable are but I do know that the imbalance harmonic vibration changes throughout the rpm range. Yes many people do get away without balancing after replacing one of the two rotating components but there are also quite a few who don't. The HX35/40 I bought new failed after 12,000 miles because the compressor contacted the housing. This unit was supposedly component and assembly balanced, but I really don't believe it was done properly. I sent it back and after haggling with them a bit they repaired it under warranty. They replaced the bearings and thrust washer and rebalanced the assembly again, and I can see where they ground on the nut to re-balance it again. They sent my old bearings back to show they replaced them. I havn't put it back on the truck yet and am running the HX35. John, If you get a new or used compressor I would highly recommend having the assembly balanced and then mark it when you take it apart so you can reassemble it in the same position. An assembly that is out of balance specifications will wear the bearings out and you wont get the proper performance from it from the start. You may not notice the imbalance until it fails. Mine failed on a trip to Montana and I was able to baby it to my destination. luckily I had thought to throw the old one in a box and put it in the bed of the truck, but it's no fun to change one out on a trip. When it started to fail it wouldn't build proper boost and finally sounded like a hand full of gravel in a 3 lb coffee can when you swirl it around. Had I been pushing high boost I believe it could have come apart. Just my advice. Jim
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That’s exactly what I am doing using a dpdt on off on mini toggle and a 5K pot. I like the idea of using phone cable to connect it to the IAT location. I really am hesitating on cutting into the wiring to the IAT. I would like to build a plug compatible harness to just plug into the IAT on one side and the harness on the other. Anyone know where I can get connectors?
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Yes, I've been thinking for a while now about the fuel temp being a factor because the viscosity of cold fuel is thicker than warm fuel. I think the cold fuel does not atomize as well as warm fuel. I also think that warm fuel will give better mileage. For those who think that 140* fuel will be detrimental to the life of the electronics in the VP44, all I can say is supposedly Bosch solved that problem and it isn't supposed to be an issue any longer, but we won't know until it is tried. I've started working on a heat exchanger to warm the fuel before it goes to the VP44. What Iv'e found is that the fuel should not be above 140*F because that is the flash point of 143*F. This is different than the auto ignition point of diesel fuel which is 410*F. The flash point of a volatile liquid is the lowest temperature at which it can vaporize to form an ignitable mixture in air. We don't want the fuel to become a vapor in the fuel lines. I plan to use engine coolant to warm the fuel. The problem is keeping the fuel below 140*F because the engine coolant is 50*F warmer at engine operating temp. I would like to find a shutoff or control valve that is thermally sensitive to the fuel temp and can be set to close when the fuel temp gets to 135* or so and open up again when the fuel temp drops below 120*. It has to be relatively inexpensive also. For a prototype I'm thinking I will use a small ball valve, a push pull cable, and a temp gauge in the fuel outlet. Help anyone can offer in locating a valve that will work automatically would be greatly appreciated. Jim
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"As for the fuel blowing up inside the injector, I wonder if that would happen since there is no oxygen in there, kinda like water wont boil if there is a lot of pressure." Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that the fuel would ignite inside the injectors and HP lines. Obviously it won't because as you point out there is no O2. I was thinking more that it would flash into a gas and raise the pressure in the lines to beyond their burst point. When water flashes into steam it expands 10,000 times in volume. I don't know how much diesel fuel expands when it flashes into a gas. I do know that when water boils and flashes into steam it absorbs a tremendous amount of latent heat and that's why the whole volume of water don't turn into steam instantly when it reaches 212*F at 14.7 lbs absolute pressure (sea level). The heat source has to supply the heat the gas absorbs when it flashes. So the greater the heat source the faster the water boils and flashes into steam. You are correct that water will boil at lower or higher temps depending on the pressure on it and when it does it contains more or less energy depending on the pressure and temp. The high pressure steam driven ships the NAVY used before nuclear systems, used superheated steam from a pressure vessel (boiler) at temps and pressures exceeding 1200psi and as high as 1000*F, because the steam contained more energy and could drive the steam turbines much harder. Just tidbits from my past. Jim
That thread on injectors and your explanation really helps with my understanding of injectors and supports my previous conclusion that higher pop pressure atomizes the fuel better and supports better burn and therefor better economy. I also have suspected for a while that fuel temp plays a role here. I'm working on a heat exchanger to warm the fuel using engine coolant before being fed to the vp44. I suspect that If I can control the fuel to 100*-120* coupled with high pop pressure of the injectors 300-310 bar combustion will be improved in cold weather. This is on the premise that the timing can be fooled to be optimal (Mikes IAT fooler). However at this point it is a theory only.Jim
