dodgedieselnewbie

Evidently these were not created equal... One should expect that they are when purchased from a dealer tho... This could have been a major disaster. I'm not sure what damage may have been done.. hopefully minimal as it seams to run and sound okay at this time.

What's this have to do with the o-rings flattening out and becoming brittle? They were Mopar from dealer. They only had 40-50k on them. I have the original injectors in the garage with the o-rings still on em and they look great with 125k on them.

Twice.. added Lucas both times.

Update...... So, it turns out that I had fuel mix in with my oil. The O-rings on the injectors became flat and brittle. My injectors were replaced about 3.5 years ago with 50 over and O-rings were new OEM from my local Dodge dealer. Not sure why.. Just sharing what happened. It appears that it was caught in time... fingers crossed.

Thanks for the response .. I did have some vacuum problems/leaks a few weeks ago or so but I believe they were rectified. Will check into again. Anything else that can cause this or just vacuum leaks? Thanks again...

Hey all.. I installed a catch can on my truck a little over a week ago to avoid the oil spots on the driveway. Well.. after one week it collected around 9-10 ounces. Seems pretty excessive.. or no? If so.. why or what is causing it? Thank you....

Oh my goodness... My son (28 years old) certainly wears big boy pants. He has served our country for 7.5 years with the US Air Force and is now super busy working as a defense contractor. I didn't come here for criticism, judgement, belittling or speculation. I came here for advice for him. He is more than capable but works a lot and doesn't have enough garage space. I would help him but unfortunately he lives 2200 miles away. Perhaps I came to the wrong place.... Have a great day!

Hey all... My son bought a 98.5 about a year ago. He brought into a shop for something (can't remember) and they dropped a bomb ... but said otherwise... runs fantastic. I haven't been keeping up to date with things... So, I'm here asking for guidance/recommendations as far as making sure he gets/uses quality parts... please. I don't know what a PCS BIG BORE GEARBOX is. Is this good? Is Redhead still a good or a better choice? Should he go with Dodge Off Road steering brace as well? What track bar should he go with? Dodge Off Road? Shocks? Bilsteins still a great choice? Which model? Stock height... Are all ball joints created equal? Does this quote seem reasonable? Ball Joint 2.00 109.48 218.96 K8607T Ball Joint 2.00 72.98 145.96 K80026 Wheel Hub Assembly 2.00 202.98 405.96 515012 Stabilizer Bar Link 2.00 88.30 176.60 K7280 Stabilizer Bar Bushing Kit 1.00 32.96 32.96 K7352 Track Bar 1.00 206.02 206.02 DS1413 Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve 1.00 43.55 43.55 ES2012S Tie Rod End 1.00 103.59 103.59 DS1458 Tie Rod End 1.00 94.17 94.17 DS1459 Tie Rod End 1.00 96.54 96.54 ES3496 Shock Absorber 2.00 85.82 171.64 911103 Shock Absorber 2.00 83.05 166.10 911104 Multi-Purpose Seal 1.00 15.00 15.00 5131 Multi-Purpose Seal 1.00 12.57 12.57 710241 GEAR OIL 4.00 10.00 40.00 1 Wheel Stud 1.00 3.67 3.67 610-218 PCS BIG BORE GEARBOX 1.00 700.00 700.00 PSCSG852K3 Steering Shaft 1.00 252.37 252.37 REPLACE BOTH INNER AXLE SEAL, BALL JOINTS, 900.00 HUBS REPLACE ALL CONTROL ARMS 270.00 REPLACE GEARBOX, AND STEERING SHAFT 180.00 REPLACE ALL STEERING LINKAGE, TRACK BAR 180.00 AND SWAY BAR LINKS AND BUSHINGS REPLACE LR WHEEL STUD 90.00 REPLACE SHOCKS ALL AROUND 162.00 ORING 1.00 15.00 15.00 1 ROTELLA 3.00 16.00 48.00 1 OIL FILTER 1.00 12.00 12.00 1 COOLANT 3.00 15.00 45.00 1 ATF 2.00 6.00 12.00 1 Serpentine Belt 1.00 40.20 40.20 K080810 Water Pump 1.00 59.45 59.45 CP7145 Valve Cover Gasket Set 1.00 27.24 27.24 PS50397R Rear Main Seal Kit 1.00 50.08 50.08 BS40650 Timing Cover Gasket Set 1.00 50.94 50.94 TCS45994 Valve Cover Gasket Set 1.00 175.32 175.32 VS50506R RESEAL INNER TIMING COVER, OIL PAN, AND VALVE COVER, TAPPET COVER, WATER PUMP REPLACE 2,700.00 DIAG AND REPAIR LOW PRESSURE FUEL SYSTEM SENSOR 90.00 Looking at $5000.00... Let me know if you think anything is out of line and any suggestions you may have. Thanks a million! Also... if anyone can recommend some place within an hour or so of the Phoenix area for him to take to for a second look......

Hey guys... My truck has been giving me a hard time starting. It started happening last year and only did it when I was parked nose uphill. I remember reading something about this one time a few years back... but never heard what the cause was. This year.. a few months ago.. it's been starting hard on level ground. I have to hold the key on for 10-15 secs til it fires up. Almost like leaving it unplugged on cold days of winter. This only happens the first start of the day and only if I let it sit for more than 24 hours. Where do I start? No pun intended.... Thanks

Hey John.. Thanks for letting me know I posted in wrong forum and the info. The starter cranks and motor is cranking but takes 10-15 secs to fire up. Like leaving it unplugged in the winter...

Hey guys... My truck has been giving me a hard time starting. It started happening last year and only did it when I was parked nose uphill. I remember reading something about this one time a few years back... but never heard what the cause was. This year.. a few months ago.. it's been starting hard on level ground. I have to hold the key on for 10-15 secs til it turns over. This only happens the first start of the day and only if I let it sit for more than 24 hours. Where do I start? No pun intended.... Thanks

Thanks kzim... just notice I ask in wrong forum.

So.. if that is the case. Does a full rebuild mean that all the components in my tranny are not worth using?

CT.. no issues with 2nd, 3rd or OD. It's 1st that's acting up. I have limited mechanical knowledge/skill... so I wouldn't know what I'm looking at if I were to drop the valve body :-( Basically here to get an idea of what may be going on and not be taken advantage of when I decide to take it in.... Thank you

Hi guys/gals... Last summer (camping trip) I had an issue with a band anchor coming off and wedging itself in linkage.. this was coming up an incline and tranny made a slamming jolt from first to second. Long story short... local tranny guy reattached band/anchor. Drove home with camper and everything seemed okay. This lasted about a month... then it starting doing this double hit into second (like it didn't grab the first time).. then as tranny got warm I'd completely lose first gear. So.. when I first start out.. drives fine.. as it starts to warms (10-15 mins).. double hit first to second.. then when warm loses first gear. So.. winter came and I just parked it... until today. I decided to check things out.. same issue. Found that the fluid looked to be a quart over full tho... drained some out.. no change. Fluid does look somewhat cloudy or marble looking? I bought this truck with the tranny already built... to hold 850hp. The transmission did the slamming jolt one time before about 3 years ago.. Anyone have any insight as to what may be going on? What may be the cause of the jolting shifts happen.. I mean.. it hit super hard those two times. First time 3 years ago scared the **** outa me! Also... I can manually shift into first and it works fine... and 2nd to 3rd to overdrive shift fine. And... anyone know why an anchor would come off? Is this an odd thing to happen? Thanks........... EDIT: Would you just go to a regular local tranny shop in my situation or go somewhere that specializes in builds and diesel truck? The latter is 2 hours away... Anyone know of or can vouch for Muldoon's Diesel in Delaware? I want to go to someone that knows what they're doing and won't tell me I need a complete rebuild when I might not....

Okay.. a little more info. I do get a TPS code on my smarty. I went camping a few weeks ago. We took a day trip/ride to next town over.. when we turned around to go back to campground.. we were climbing an uphill grade and the truck hung in first gear way longer than it should have.. then kicked REALLY HARD into second. I pulled over to let the dog out to do his business and the truck wouldn't go into neutral, reverse or park. Long story short.. tranny guy up there took pan and valve body down.. the piece that holds a band in place fell off and lodged itself in the linkage. He put back together and seemed to shift fine. But on slow take off... Not so fine.

Hi guys.. I'm am having a problem with my truck shifting from first to second.. only on slow acceleration. It seems like it kicks in out of second very quickly a couple to few times. If I accelerate quicker.. no problem. Can TPS cause this or do I have another problem? Thanks in advance! All other gears are fine...

Well.. it took me all day but it's in! I'm so sore.. lol Had a difficult time with accessing the bottom forward bolt where the turbo connects to manifold. I ended up using one of the two supplied hex bolts on the bottom of the manifold.. second bolt in from front.. because I couldn't get a wrench or socket to go around a factory bolt to snug it up. And there was nowhere for me to put the adapter piece the supplied for the coolant line bracket.. so used factory bolt in that location. Truck definitely drives better and no exhaust leak sound anymore! When I came back from my test run and let it idle for egts to come down... It wouldn't drop below 350 after a couple of minutes of sitting. Shouldn't drop a little lower? I believe it did beforehand...

Thanks... but... $230 is a pretty significant difference.

I did not see any mention of the 2 SS bolts. Where are those required? As for the bolts.. whether the stock, all stainless or a stud kit. Should I change them out with new? If so.. which way should I go?

Thank you for the replies! Ordering tomorrow.......

There are a ton of diesel stainless manifolds that range in price. I found this one that is one piece, has one port and comes with gaskets.. for best price I could find. This what you are referring to? Thanks again! https://www.genosgarage.com/product/bd-1045985ss-kit/exhaust-manifolds