leathermaneod

I can't help too much since I don't have an electric pump anymore, but that certainly doesn't sound right to me. My understanding is that the ecm triggers that at every key on just incase there is a leak, unless the key was just cycled. Unless it has a pressure sensor that it can tell how much pressure there is, and being downhill keeps a good bit off pressure in the line. But I certainly don't know of any such thing and I don't think there is. The thing is, there is no need for the system to re-prime after the truck has been shut off, if there are no leaks, air or otherwise. My Fuel Boss can't prime like that because it's engine driven and I have no issues with starting. My old FASS used to do it though, unless I cycled the key on and off very quickly. Maybe the FSM can tell you more? Sorry I can't be off more help, but I figure something was better than nothing and no one else answered yet lol

My truck runs up to about 197°-200° The first time depending on how hard I'm running it. After the thermostat opens it doesn't get as hot. But it will drop down to like 180° while just idling. Normally around 190° while cruising down the road. I have a new gates thermostat and rad cap.

Lol that's crazy. Definitely over my head. Doesn't seem possible without physically changing the truck, but that seems impossible as well.

Yes definitely. Sounds like fun!

Well thank you very much for the advice. I'm going to reseal my vac pump and try snugging up the pan bolts first because the PO replaced the pan gasket, but I'll certainly keep all this in mind if I need to do it. Is there anything special to do with the pickup tube gasket? I thought the cross member was the issue, not the axle?

So you raise it just enough that it is still in the mounts?

That makes sense, you are right. That's why I wanted the opinion of someone who had done it before. Doesn't anything get stressed or hurt jacking the engine up that much without disconnecting anything? And where do you jack on?

So I've never done one of these, but I have an idea I've been thinking over that I'd like an opinion or two on. What if, instead of raising the motor, you left the truck on the ground and took all the bolts out. Then, took your new gasket and cut it so its one long piece. Next, after cleaning the surfaces, laid it in place on the pan and used small zip ties every other hole to keep it in place. Next, put some RTV at the cut. Now bolt the pan in place removing the zip ties as you install the bolts. Yes it's not exactly right, but this way you don't have to touch the pick up tube and don't have to lift the motor. What do you all think? Would it work? Am I crazy? Lol

Basically just because I've heard some not quite great things about BD injectors, and I don't need that much power. Plus I don't ever plan to go with a bigger turbo, and with those and the comp I'm on the verge. I think I'd just be better off al around with Bosch and a little less power. Maybe better fuel economy, and less hard on things since I don't need that much power ya know?

I heartily agree with dripley on this. It's a lot of work just to replace those o rings if you are planning to tear it all apart again to do injectors. Plus if the connector tube o rings don't solve the issue, you'll be left wondering if the injectors or injector o rings could be the issue. Also, if you do have trouble with leaks at the head when you put it back together, you will never wanna take it apart again lol All that said I think I would just wait a little till you can swing some rv275s and then do everything at once. This is all just my opinion of course. I haven't done injectors myself yet, I just had to fix leaks that the local Cummins shop couldn't, and so I'm not in a hurry to tear it apart again, even though I want to switch from my 75hp BD injects to the Bosch rv275s. Those idiots were trying to tell me the head was warped or cracked and they put thread sealant on the lines at the head, smh, what a mess. I showed them once I got it fixed and told them how I did it, and the service manager offered me a job lol

No problem! You probably won't have issues with leaks. Most don't. Just figured I'd let you know there is a chance. Just try to get the line perfectly seated in the delivery tube while hand tightening the nut. Then when the nut gets tight, try to wiggle the line and see if it will loosen up and seat better, then tighten the nut more. Hopefully that makes sense. Also, I was just thinking and realized you will need to pull your intake horn and grid heater I believe.

Lol yeah I know. Mine doesn't really make any heat till it hits 140° or so lol

I've heard of guys doing it with a stubby, but I would recommended at least a crows foot line wrench. Better than that, there is a special socket made by tork tools here http://www.genosgarage.com/product/sch99100/tools. I have one and it's great! Totally worth the price. I think if you are planning to do all your delivery tube o rings and maybe injector o rings, I would totally remove your lines and leave the clamps on and tight. They come out in sets of three. You may have issues getting the lines to stop leaking at the head when you put them back on. If so, you'll likely have to clean the mating surfaces up with a scotch brite pad, then clean them good with brake clean, then blow out with a compressor. You'll probably have to loosen the clamps and take them off at this point, but you may get lucky and not have issues. Lots don't, but some, like me, just have a heck of a time getting them to stop lol. hope this all helps. let me know if there's anything else I can help with. forgot to mention I would also get one of these http://www.genosgarage.com/product/24vctr010/tools. Then you don't have to worry about ruining delivery tubes trying to pry them out with a screw driver.

I'm honestly not sure about that one. I'm pretty sure if you removed the line clamps you would be fine, but I also know some say never to take those clamps off so that will be your call. I thought earlier in this thread you said you had already replaced injectors and o rings?

Really? Does leaving it on 1 do better than leaving it off all together?

Just wanted to close out this thread in case anyone is following. Got the job done. Parts are easy to transfer over, just have to be gentler getting the spring retainer out of the old hydrobooster. I did have to remove the brake master cylinder, didn't want to risk bending the lines. After taking it off I decided to replace that too. Then while waiting for a friend to help with putting things back together I decided to go over my brakes. That turned into new pads, rotors, calipers, and sway bar links all the way around. Has anyone else out there had issues with the rear driver side sway bar link gouging their fuel tank?! We finally got everything buttoned up and put back together. Then we followed the initial run process out of the fsm for bleeding the power steering/hydrobooster. After that we went on to bleeding brakes. We didn't bother bench bleeding the new master cylinder since the whole system was almost totally empty with removing all four calipers. We went around the truck twice just to be sure we got all the air out. Actually didn't take that long. It's amazing what a difference there is in my brake pedal now. Way more firm and there is almost no travel compared to how it was before. I did have to replace the brake light switch under the dash because I had to push the pedal pretty far before the lights would come on. I'm not sure if the slow pedal return is fixed, because it still seems to come back kinda slow, however the travel is so much less that I don't think it's going to be an issue. Now my next project is resealing my vacuum pump!

Why does the coolant filter increase the time it takes to warm up?

Interesting. Mine has always been cooler than I thought it should be. New thermostat and rad cap helped a lot though. How do you have your coolant filter installed?

Well that was only a guesstimate lol it may be closer to 8. I have a rural highway for most of the drive though so I'm doing 60 or so. So that helps.

In the warmer months I probably get up to temp in the first 5 miles so about 10 mins or so before shutdown. In the winter though it's probably less. I had to adjust my route a little to help me get up to temp in the winter months lol.

Well I have only owned my truck for about 1 year and it was down for the count a lot of that time due to me being extremely OCD and trying to vastly improve it. I put about 8k on it last year. I do not tow at this time and it is basically a daily driver. Most of my trips are around 10 miles give or take which is one reason why I always went on the very short end of OCI's.

Well thanks again for the reply and all the info. I must say you have me considering Amsoil if you can get a 2.5 gal jug to my door for $83. That would actually be about the same(maybe slightly more) as the Valvoline PBX 5w-40. Heres another question, in your experience does leakage/consumption usually go up or down when switching to amsoil? I ask because when I switched from Rotella 15w-40 to Valvoline PBX 5w-40, I either started leaking more, or using more, or both. So just wondering if anything is likely to change with the Amsoil? one more question, how long of an interval would you recommend with that oil and either fleetguard or donaldson filter? sorry for all the questions just trying to do thorough research since its almost oil change time again lol

Thanks for the reply! I have a few more questions now. First, would you run that oil year round? Even with sub zero temps, sometimes with no block heater? Second, can you explain for me why the CI is better for our trucks than CJ? Third, what is the price per gallon on that oil? As far as the filters, just curious how long ago you contacted Fleetguard and Donaldson about that info?

Can you still get CI oils? Also, would you mind posting links for where you get the info comparing the fleetguard stratapore to the dondaldson DBL7349? I'd like to read more about them for myself...

My truck came with the posi lock setup on it and I have liked it so far. You also get the advantage of being able to use 4 low in a two wheel drive mode. Yes it has a few weaknesses, but over all a very good system. The company is also very helpful with any issues you have.