BurtNasty

To get rid of my front end play I did the tie rod ends, ball joints, and track bar. This was all over the course of a year. Most of the play was coming from the track bar and tie rod ends. I ended up going with the DOR track bar, which in hindsight was probably a little more expensive than its worth. Also it takes a while for them to ship it to you. Don't get me wrong its a good quality product but there are cheaper solutions.

Here is the PS Method for reference

I know you're probably not supposed to do it, but I put antiseize on the mating surface of mine. Also if you take a socket and extension and place in on the back of the bolt and have the extension press on to the knuckle of the axel then turn the steering wheel it will pop the bearing right off. Typically you just thread each of the 4 bolts in just enough so that they are flush on the hub and do the before mentioned method hitting all 4 bolts. That's how I did mine and it was effortless. Especially if you do it with the front axel on jack stands. Saw some guy on youtube do it a couple of months ago. I'll see if I can find the video.

Is there a thread that has the method that @Mopar1973Man used? I used the search tool and searched google but didn't see anything. I know Thoroughbred and Goulds have a walkthrough but both of those methods involve removing the pump.

Well got home and pulled the harmonic damper off and it looks like it’s slowly leaking from the bottom of the front cover. Almost as if I didn’t get enough rtv on there. So I cleaned it up real good and tried to reseal it from the outside. I know this isn’t the “right way” to do it but I really don’t want to have to pull that damn cover off again. I’ve got to have this rig ready to pick up my 32’ TT on Saturday. Also after closer inspection I probably should replace tappet cover seal and rebuild the vacuum pump.

I didn't notice anything on the drivers side of the truck but I suppose it could be the vacuum pump. I'm also going to pull the harmonic damper to verify that the new crank seal is actually seated properly.

Last weekend I replaced the crankshaft seal on my front cover as well as installing a wear sleeve. I followed the procedures that were on the Thoroughbred Diesel YouTube Channel. I used the wear sleeve installation tool and the crank seal installation tool. Used Permatex to seal the front cover after installation. I've started to notice fresh oil on my sway bar and steering components after driving. The bottom front bolts of the oil pan had small amounts of oil on them as well. I can't seem to tell if the leak is coming from the oil pan and that the gasket needs to be replaced or if its coming from somewhere else. The tappet cover looks good from what I can see and I retorqed the bolts to 18ft/lbs on the oil pan. Still no luck! Any thoughts or ideas on where else I should check? I cleaned everything up real good but can't seem to stop this leak. It never leaked from this spot before until after I changed the crankseal.

Thanks for all of the good feedback, I'll probably continue to use my edge. I like the fact that it's super simple plus I don't really need to spend the money on another programmer.

I think that the other setting you can have is the turbo cool down setting. I've heard about the adrenalines having issues with surging. Have you experienced anything like that before? Also does anyone know how difficult it would be to switch from a Comp box to an Adrenaline of I did decide to switch?

I current have an Edge Comp box and o just wanted to find out what other people were running on their rigs. I'm pretty happy with the comp box but I wasn't sure if anyone else preferred another tuner. The biggest thing that I really care about it overal reliability and on the fly tuning. I know there are lots of other forums online where people debate about this but I want to see what y'alls opinions are. I could be possibly be swayed to switch.