Heavyd1980

ok thats good to know so no cranck sensors or cam sensors to go bad sweeet, so do you know if i would need to use the 24v cam or the 12v cam??? i do know that the crank, rods, and pistons will need to be used.... anything else that i am missing? what else electrically would be needed for the 12v thanks ISX for the info.

ok guys I have almost convinced myself to build a 24v 12v engine but I was wondering how does the 12v engine time? And also my airdog is preset at 15 psi so correct me if I'm wrong my airdog would have to either be replaced with an adjustable unit or if possible change the regulator spring because the 12v requires more psi right???

oh sweet sounds pretty easy i will pass this info along. thanks moparman

ok cool thank you again. is this rheostat under a cover next to the blower fan when the HVAC is all put together in the truck???

thank you is there a cover over the rheostat? and this rheostat was replaced about 30 days ago has anyone had one give up this quick and if so would the blower fan have cause this?

Does anyone know where the rheostat is located for the fan inside the cab? i have a friend that only has one speed High.

that i would like to know since i can only manage to get about 13-14 mpg's out of my 98.5.

the truck was fired up just last night thanks to the help of White01. everything seemed to work just fine cleared the code and changed the oil after a couple of minutes of running. however did find two oil leaks at the back of the oil pan where the engine adapter mounts. so hopefully i can get that fixed and then start back with the tranny and t-case.

ok guys i found a great website that has tons of info, specs and a bunch of other stuff. heres a link https://quickserve.cummins.com/info/index.html this website is FREE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! all you have to do is create a login and your up and running. enjoy

moparman i clicked on the download file link and it told me that i could not view the file?

boy that sucks. has anyone ever seen this with the factory setup?

ok thank you for the help,do you happen to have a wiring diagram of this circuit so that at least i know what im looking for?

cool thank you for the help.

ok well thank you for your time i appreciate it. i will find out what size the bolt is and chase down that torque. thanks again.

sorry for the late response but yes the climate control works great as well as the four wheel drive. i was also talking with a friend of mine and he sugguets replacing the clockspring? has anyone ever done one of these and if so what all is involved i know its behind the airbag.

as far as i can tell it does not have an aftermarket security system and i dont have the factory keyless remote entry either this is something that just recently started the only thing that i have done was remove the "dinger" speaker when the key is in the ignition and the door is open.

well here's an update finally got the oil pan off and found my tone ring in four pieces it looks like two of the bolts actually broke off in the crank and a couple of them backed out i think thats how it broke, called dodge they can get me another one for $140 dollars. does anyone know what the torque spec is for the tone ring? or is there a website or maint manual that i could go to or buy that would have all of this stuff in it. thanks for all the info and help this is truely a great place to gain a ton of knowledge!!!

thank you both for the help maybe i should go ahead with the original plan and just get the pan off and see whats going on in there.

im sorry i do that quite often, i was planning on taking the oil pan off in the next couple of days but in the mean time i thought i would explore my options. i also have done alot of reading up on a p-pump swap so i thought this might be a good time to do so by finding a 12V and swapping my 24V upper end onto the block.

the reason I ask this question is because I have a major failure with 24V I put a new crank sensor in it this weekend after a CEL of P0336 come to find out when I took out the old sensor it was broke in two, so I drained the oil hoping that the other piece would evac come to find out there is a large piece of metal in the oil pan and I appears to be a piece of the reluctor ring. I have not yet removed the oil pan due to the length of the job this is my next task.

does anyone know if the 12V will accept a 24V head?

ok sorry guys i was wrong with the code it is a P1693 and there is a new code that showed up a P0336 and now the truck wont start

ok guys heres the deal a friend of mine tried hooking his smarty up to my 1998.5 it wouldnt let him, the smarty kept telling him to turn the truck on and then back off again in a row about 5 or 6 times. heres the second part of the puzzle after my friend talked with Bob Wagner from smarty he suggested a short in my wiring so i pluged in my very simple OBDII scanner into the truck it pulled up a P1683 code. this is/was the only code that my scanner found. so now to my question has anyone ever ran into/seen this issue before and what is a P1683 code? thanks for any and all help

yes the doors lock when the key is turned on

hey guys I have a 1998 24 valve SLT has anyone ever had the power door locks engage when you turn the ignition switch to the on position, if so what is the fix thanks