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unioncreek

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Everything posted by unioncreek

  1. So, I've never had my truck aligned (I've put 135k) since I've had it. The tires have always worn evenly. I replaced the ball joints on the drivers side. Last fall the tires were wearing, so I took it in and had it checked. The toe-in was off, but I don't remember if it was positive or negative. He set toe-in at +0.10. He said the drivers side camber was at +1.35 and passengers side was ar +0.23. I told him to leave it and when I put new tires on in the spring we would do it then. I know both sides have 1 degree bushings already in the top ball joints. So, I decided to check camber the redneck way. I downloaded an spirit level app for my iPad. Parked on level concrete. Put the iPad on the concrete and zero'd it, used a straight bar against the rim of the wheel, not the tire. Checked oth sides and they were close to the alignment shop, drove forward 10 feet and did it again. The passenger side was pretty consistent with the drivers side, but the drivers side varied by over 1degree. So, I re-zero'd the iPad and did the same thing on the wheel hub, both sides ranged from 0.0 to 0.2. From the info I got I figure the drivers side wheel is bent and there's enough flex in the wheel to throw off the camber compared to the wheel hub. Am I on the right track here or totally missing something. I'm getting ready to put new tires on and want the front end to be in alignment. Bob
  2. Rechecked the volts tonight. Drivers side: battery 14.00, AC 11.8 - 12.7 mV. Passenger side: battery 13.5, AC 9.5 - 10.2 mV. Batteries were checked right after starting. A question I have is when I check the AC, I do connect to the battery right? Bob
  3. Well, when you set the dial to AC it will switch to mV automatically. I had the TPS disconnected now for about 5 years. Got tired of spending $100 every year to replace the TPS. Would like to go back to the reconnecting the TPS is this is a permanent fix. Bob
  4. That reading was with my Fluke 179 meter. I should have listed the reading as mV. Bob
  5. I read the post from Mopar1973man about the alternator causing the tranny to lock and unlock. Does this cause the TPS to cause the locking and unlocking. I checked the volts at the battery with the truck running and it was 14.86 on both batteries. When I switched to AC the passenger side battery varied between 10.35 and 11.50, the drivers side battery varied between 11.35 and occasionally jumped to 15. Would this be enough to cause the TPS to lock and unlock. Bob
  6. My AC on my 96 did that. It was a vacuum line that crossed over the valve covers and got too close to the exhaust. Bob