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xmtysonxm

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  1. xmtysonxm changed their profile photo
  2. Where does the EJWA pick up the fuel temperature? I hadn't driven my truck for 2 days and went to start it up this morning. It was 32 degrees outside and the fuel temp was showing 41 degrees. After a few mins of idle and scraping the windows I started driving and the temp was showing 64 degrees. Is this read from the fuel in the VP44?
  3. I checked for codes twice. Once with a small unit and the second time was at autozone. They plugged it in my truck, then downloaded it to their computer. It didn't show any codes at all. Their scanner did not show the abs/brake light that was on either. Do I need to use a special scanner to read that code? Or do I need to go power wash it again to make the CEL come back on then go read it? How does the Chrysler crash detection affect the tach signal? Doesn't the Crank position sensor send the signal to the ECM and from the ECM to the gauge cluster?
  4. So earlier this week I put the big line kit on from my factory filter to the VP44. After checking all the connections I went to the car wash and powerwashed under the hood around the starter, whole factory fuel filter unit, and around the inlet for the VP44. This morning was 36 degrees and the truck started fine and drove about 30 miles on the freeway headed out deer hunting. Pulled up to my friends house and then the RPM gauge drops to zero, CEL on, and the truck started almost like hiccuping or bumping RPM up. Backed out and drove it down the street and the truck seemed to drive fine. Pulled over, shut it off, waited about a minute then turned it over. Truck just cranked, wouldn't start. Bump started to see if it was a fuel issue but the gauge showed 20 psi. You could hear the pump running for the 30 seconds or whatever. After another minute or two it fired up. I drove it back to my friends house and the CEL came on again. We drove up to where we were hunting about 3 miles away. The rpm gauge would randomly drop to zero then back up where it should be. Parked it and was just praying it would work to get me home. After a very successful hunt, drove the truck about 100 yards. No CEL, parked it. Fired it up about 5 mins later. No problems. With a bed full of deer we started to head down to town. CEL came on, RPM at zero. Truck had one or two slight bumps up in rpm but idled fine. Drove it to town to drop one of the deer off. Didn't dare shut it off in case it wouldn't start like earlier that morning. The whole time the EJWA showed I had an RPM reading but the factory gauge showed zero. Truck drove 28 miles or so without any problems with the CEL on, and then the rpm gauge came back like normal. After dropping the deer off (didn't let the truck turn off the whole time) I pulled into the car wash to wash the bed out. Turned it off, washed it out, then it fired back up. CEL was gone. No more issues. I don't have a code reader currently but will try and stop by my friends place to see what that code was. Any ideas on what could be going on? Crank position sensor? Harness not water tight? Is there a waterproof seal around the ECM? The weird thing was my EJWA still showed a reading.
  5. Does it matter if your fuel pressure sensor is pre or post filter? Looking at my FASS HPFP I see there is a port for a fuel pressure gauge on the pump itself. And if the sensor is way back on the pump do the VP44 hammer pulses still affect it?
  6. Katoom, thanks for those links! That sure makes it super easy! I'll get that stuff coming on Monday.
  7. I have about 2 feet of that 1/2" hose left and plan on replacing that section as soon as I figure out what push lock fittings/thread patterns I need. So if I relocate my sensor to the tapped 90 barb I still need the snubber right? I called Edge tech support a couple months ago and asked them about hammer pulses from the VP44 and using a snubber and they said their sensor isn't affected at all by that. I'd rather be on the safe side and get a snubber but I thought it was interesting they said they have never even heard of this before. I most likely will leave the factory lines and pump on there and I'll try and find a cap to cover them up.
  8. I got the FASS 95 gph adjustable pump installed last night. Came with 1/2" Parker fuel line from the tank to factory filter. I have the factory line from the filter to the VP44 for now and the EJWA sensor is on the banjo bolt for the VP44. Install went easier than expected and the truck runs so much smoother. What do you do with the factory fuel lines? Cap them off? Just leave them? And is it fine to leave the factory carter pump on the block or should I take it off and save it just in case?
  9. If I remember correctly, you plug in the jumper to a blue plug in the passenger kick panel by the ECU. You will get a check engine light showing your connection is good when you start it. If the CEL doesn't come on check the connection again. Hook up your timing light and on the right side of the motor on the timing belt cover there is a slotted V. Hook up the timing light to plug #1 (far right, closest to the timing belt cover. Start the car, pull the trigger and watch for the red mark to be right in the middle of the V. If it is off, loosen the 3 bolts on the distributor and advance or retard the timing by rotating the distributor clockwise or counter clockwise then tighten. Unplug jumper and you are good to go! While you are under their replace your spark plugs with NGK type R plugs. They are the only ones to put in a Honda.
  10. I would contact Browning and let them know what happened. They are a local company (Mountain Green, UT) and have excellent customer service. I would be willing to bet that they would give you a new magazine given the circumstances. Even though the magazine is somewhere on a mountain.
  11. Thank you both! I'll put it in the up position for now and order that brake hose.
  12. Today I was inspecting my spare tire and noticed this rod with one end attached to the drivers side rear axle but nothing was hooked to the other side. I looked it up online and found out it is a rear height sensing valve that proportions the rear brakes according to the load in the bed. I read that some people buy a bypass hose or zip tie it in an upright position to increase rear braking power. What position should I put it in? It has been hanging straight down for who knows how long. Should I just secure it to the rod and keep it in that position? Straight up? Parallel to the frame?
  13. I'll keep an eye out here in Utah. What is wrong with people these days?
  14. Is the stock filter setup good enough? I am leaning towards the Fass 95 gph adjustable series. It comes with larger diameter fuel line from the stock pickup all the way to the stock filter.
  15. Jag1 I recently started running 2 stroke and it helped quite a bit. It improved my gas mileage, better throttle response, engine sound like it runs smoother and my smoke is a lighter shade of black now. Leathermaneod my stock filter has the metal canister. I'll see which part number is will work in mine. Thanks for those part numbers. Dripley I'll see what the biggest pump I can get for the money. I guess it might be too easy to just press the button on the JWA and possibly damage something. Random on question on the EJWA. If I had enough fuel and tapped the VP44 at what power level do you need to worry about your clutch starting to slip? I'll have to check my maintenance records to see what kind of clutch was put in by the previous owner. I know this truck use to pull a huge triple axel trailer with a mini excavator on it.