015point9

Lol...when I saw pic, i thought looks just like MCAS Yuma. Same color on lift, location in shop the same, etc. Is it Yuma?

Dieselfuture I had to google up the number you posted to find out what it was. Never knew about Amsoil filter. I've always been "gun shy" about Amsoil, probably because of an ex co-worker. I'm sure if I was having a heart attack he would try to sell me some Amsoil to fix me up. I'm going to check out more. Hopefully I'll find info about oil pre and post filter. Mopar1973Man dialysis...Have you checked out home dialysis? Read an article some time ago that price has really came down but picky when it comes to which type of patients. Winter time in your area, must be a hassle sometimes. On the plus side, being together all that travel time you're probably grown closer to her and I'm sure she appreciates it very much. Wife with brain tumor, each week is usually 3 or 4 appointments, but we are 12 miles one way. But at home I'm pretty much it, I have to flip her every other hour during the day and at night have to get up twice. So I know about the time involved issue. dripley Oil analysis... Everybody Thanks for ideas. Think what I'll do is do a couple oil analysis at 2,500 and then couple at 5,000 to come with a "bench mark" and then adjust from there.

Op here...Thanks for replies. Trying to get my 01 last as long as possible. Thought those TP filters might help. I think clean air, oil and coolant are the life blood. I'm moving oil changes to 2,500 miles, soot is big killer in my opinion. (my real reason for better filtration) Lord where did I go wrong?...My son (and ex Dodge mechanic of 6 years) bought a newer Duramax. And my son in law, who I don't think even knows where the hood latch is, also has a Duramax. So I have to make my 01 last me. I've got my own kids telling me they can pull me sideways!!! Thought I taught my kid better. So hard up I am, I even called two bio/vegetable fuel places yesterday, not to screw around making (injection killer) fuel but they have the "spinner" type oil centrifuge things that separate the junk out of oil. Soot is killer over time in my opinion. I don't think there is enough room under hood or pressure, so was thinking about draining oil into a stand alone oil spinner in garage, powered by a 120 volt elec motor. Both veggy places say "no-go" unless oil is at operating temp (when soot is suspended) so it got complicated quick. I guess best course is to change out all fluids, especially the oil lot more often.

Thanks...no padding. Pretty clean truck you have

(Op is going with draw straw, not a basket...just like Moparman's pic... above I believe) But being were talking about baskets... I'll share my $3,000 mistake while snowbirding with our trailer in Yuma when my FASS broke. Might be some nuggets of info fro newbies like me. My old FASS was Installed in 2005 and about 60,000 miles on it. My fuel tank ended up with a draw straw in front of tank and a JB welded fuel module with a FASS draw straw glued inside the fuel module and finally a FASS sump. Also included was a 3 foot section of schedule 40 PVC pipe. Yep, That was final blow that made me take an interest in fixing my truck myself. So, I don't know much. However when we finally got it home (Seattle) and the trip back up north to Seattle also includes the sump leaking. I joined this web site to learn and to correct all the errors (mechanics?) made . In fixing and correcting all the errors and with guidance of the helpful people here. I needed couple fittings to replace PVC pipe and Vulcan diesel is somewhat close, so I drove down to him. Took my fuel module with me, with module with the draw straw glued to the inside of it. Eric tried to fix what (mechanics?) screwed up in Yuma. Great guy Eric is and knows his stuff. He basically used my old module as a frame or outside shell and made one of his modules out of it. But in the end mine was to messed up, so bought a new one from him. In the process Eric made it clear to me, the returns lines should go into basket for "best" results. To prove his point, he pulled the screen end off one of his and ran some water out of a faucet directly into the screen part at the bottom of module. Showed me how fuel drains slower out of the basket, which keeps more fuel available to be sucked up, while not preventing 1/4 tank issues but helping anyways. (See pic below) Also pointed out the lines coming down are bent for a reason. Fuel funnels down to basket with less of a splash, which makes less bubbles and foam. Also I was lucky enough to buy a used fuel tank from Eric. Just about done installing, (only took about a year so far, with other things in life going on) Still have old tank in car port. Thinking about making into a $3,000 planter. Taking a look at the mistakes the so called "mechanics" made...the draw straw that was glued into the module and the draw straw at other end of tank were cut about 4 inches from the bottom. (NOT like Mopars excellent pic above) the draw straw in tank also was not air tight. It leaked air where it connects to the bulk head fitting, Teflon pipe was cut on about a 45 degree angle. On the sump drain...The screws were torqued so tight, 2 screws were striped. FASS did sell me new "metal shoe" for the inside of the tank, and 3 of those plastic gromets/washers were cracked because of to much torque, which let the "O" ring start leaking around CA and OR border. For anybody installing a FASS sump...tighten bolts finger tight, then with allen wrench, with the end of allen wrench pointing at 3:00 o'clock position turn to 6:00 position, according to FASS, and that worked good for me. For what it's worth I'll never have a sump again. Little alone a 3 foot section of PVC pipe from the sump at back of tank to front of tank, then hooked up to push on fittings and fuel hose. We actually bought some diapers and duct taped diapers to the sump, one gas stations raised hell about us leaking fuel. I could only fill up, till the other leak at bulk head fitting started leaking, then drive till gauge was above 1/4. Then park across the street from a gas station and pull off old diaper and put on new diaper. And it is hard to get duct tape to stick with diesel involved, then drive into gas station fill up and go. Baling wire from a home depot worked better.

Is there supposed to be any type of padding or protection between the metal strap that holds fuel tank in place and the fuel tank? Front strap is held in place by a metal bracket that strap goes into. Metal bracket is bent …trying to figure out if it was bent on purpose, to prevent strap from falling off…just in case strap ever came loose or is bracket bent from road debris? Figure 14-110 in parts manual doesn’t show anything between strap and tank , but maybe some type of protection a good idea? (My old Ford had something like gunny sack material between tank and strap. I replaced with a rubber inter-tube. But tank was from late 80's with alum tank, if I recall right)

Batteries haven't made better connection yet. Neighbor was just trying to give me a "heads up". He works for a bus company or school bus place I think. But I'm still routing hoses and playing around where fuel gauge is going to branch off at. Hard to believe it's been a year with batteries unhooked. Thanks Thanks, printed the article out and is laying on tailgate.

My batteries have been disconnected for about a year. Anything special I have to do before I can start it? Neighbor up the way asked if I had my beast running yet. Batteries have been disconnected so long of time he thinks I need to adjust or reset something before I can start it or run right? I asked him what the something was and I think he said APS or ATS? Guess I screwed up again...what do I need to do. Thanks

Anyone use the toilet paper filter Frantz ? If so what does oil analysis look like pre frantz and after? What keeps the paper in frantz container and not going into engine once toilet paper gets saturated . If you have one... would you do it again? I've read below article and wonder if any updates or any other input. Thanks

Dynamic Thanks...I just better wait till I can get truck over to you. (1) make sure no issues (even if you gave me instructions over phone and (2) Misc stuff...proper way to adjust bands, taking out of overdirve at higher speeds with bd exhaust brake and few other things. Brother in law retiring soon so getting back and forth to his place and your place should be no problem.

Totally stock right now, except airdog 100. Will the switch in MPG mode work if I have no idea if my 2001 has ever been programmed on for high idle? If I need "re-flashed" can quadzilla do this or only smarty or anything else. Last resort being the dealer? MPG...mine is two wheel drive. I keep reading about people saying they are getting well over 21 mpg. Best MPG I've ever gotten (since 2005), even using cruise control has been 18 1/2 (long hand, not overhead reading) With switch in MPG mode what's a good "guessimate" people have seen in MPG? Thanks

Op here...Thanks for replies. Case closed, I'm not going to bother with sensors.

Yesterday, a guy asked me about what I knew about some new oil Cummins is going to. (I know nothing) then we got talking about oil changes and stuff. He said he "cleans his sensors every other oil change". First time I ever heard of cleaning any sensors. Am I missing something or is this for the big horse power guys, or maybe people like me are stock and don't put on many miles (lots of sitting)? If good idea, clean what sensors? Any write ups on cleaning them? Thanks for any responses.

OP here...OK to hijack IMO. Just waiting for Dynamic to answer, he'll probably answer in couple days. If not I'll call him. EPA and gov't in general....I've got the letter from Office of Personnel (military records) that me along with about 20 million others had their records stolen by Chinese. And a member (guinea pig) of Camp Lejeune Poison water program, a big gov't cover up, that didn't work out to well for the gov. (They got caught.) But from my wives uncle that passed away, a retired Forest ranger, I got his Dutch oven book. He saved recipes for many fire seasons. Recipes that all the fire fighters thought was best Dutch oven recipes in their fire fighting base camps. Base camps also known as waiting for somebody for to make a decision. So today...we have cheaped down melting point of solder, fuel that we pay refineries to take out the lubricity, and then we pay to put lubricity back in the form of 2 stroke oil. But all that's OK...That smoke is from trees grown "range free" and probably doesn't have any GMO's.

Thanks Dynamic. Two things... ----First...I think I pulled a fast one. Not on purpose but by mistake. The smog people kept wanting me to rev up to 3,000 RPM. I refused and went inside to office to see what the heck was going on. Turns out hey were testing me for a 5.9 gas instead of 5.9 diesel. And for some reason my registration in the "power" block had a "G" as in gas and not a "D" for diesel. The smog people also printed out every test I had since 1996. They sent me to state patrol vehicle inspection site and I was told only state patrol can change it. State patrol looked at the smog tests and said go to any license place to get it changed. State patrol also gave me a brosure that said These diesel vehicles no longer require an emission test: All diesel powered passenger vehicles weighing less than 6,001 pounds. (passenger vehicle not "light duty truck") All diesel vehicles model year 2007 and newer, regardless of weight. (in other words DPF) I took the brosure and all the previous smog tests (that the smog people printed for me) into license place. The lady didn't even look at the dates of the smog tests. She pulled up my info confirmed my VIN number and changed the "G" to a "D" and sold me a lic tab. So I got a lic tab and didn't get a smog test, and I'm in a smog test area. (I'm not complaining) That was why I was wondering if the smog test rules have been changed. Not sure if lic place made mistake or if smog rules changed. ---Second thing. I visited your place last summer. Was going to make it over this summer to get trans re-built. But stuff has come up, Namely wife is not to good, but getting better. Probably can't make it over there this year. And I hate your side in the snow. (no offense) My inlaws have been visiting wife, so they are making a few trips from Spokane Valley to Seattle. I think their house is about 10 miles from you. (South on Sullivan to 24th) The next rip they make over here maybe they could carry my trans over to you and then back to me a couple months later...How much of a hassle for either of us? Any special stuff I have to do at my end? Or is that a bad idea to begin with, if you like to test drive it before turning loose to customer? Thanks

If you live in a smog test area...did the state change the rules and now you don't have to get smog test anymore?

I took out couple rocks that were in it when I bought it. Think what I will do is see how it goes. Going to get one of these inspection bore lights. Seem pretty handy for the price. Wire should be long enough to make it inside tank. Not sure about enough light though. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-10M-5-7-8mm-6LED-Android-WIFI-Endoscope-Waterproof-Borescope-Inspection-Camera/152404167846?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=451983009183&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

I should get my 01 running this weekend. It's been sitting 11 months without any fuel and jacked up. (I was in process of upgrading fuel system and other things in life got in the way) Fuel was bought couple months before I perked it. So fuel (25 gallons) is over 1 year old and was stored in 5 gallon plastic cans in car port. And I also changed fuel tanks. Installing an Air Dog 100 and a carter pump as a back up, fuel has been cycled through filters probably 2 or 3 times. The "new to me" fuel tank not as clean as my old one (but no more sump and I'll never have one again) Because "new" tank still has stuff in it even after getting as clean as I could. Thinking about changing filters at 3k and 6k then every 5k there after. Beyond priming fuel, anything special I should do? And a Fuel question... Would you use the existing fuel or mix fuel maybe 50-50 with fresh new fuel or buy new fuel. Thanks

Op here... Thanks for replies... My terminology was wrong. The test in WA state ( and only some zip codes) is what is called "Opacity" test. Washington’s Diesel Engine Standards Model year Opacity limit 1991 and earlier 50% 1992 – 1996 40% 1997 – 2008 30% Data from "Emission Check Handbook for Authorized Emission Specialists and Authorized Repair Facilities" available on the Department of Ecology’s website at https://fortress.wa.gov/ecy/publications/SummaryPages/95210.html

Is there a way to look at smog test results and figure out what an "up grade" would do to a smog test? Like injectors for example, anyway using math to "guessimate" what a new smog test would be? I would hate to buy some upgrade stuff and then fail smog test. The state (WA) I'm in uses the "transparity" test I'm told. Also found out my truck has been licensed as "gasoline powered" for long time. Maybe that's the reason several smog tests ago, the guy looking at his smog machine said to bring RPM's up to 3,000. Believe it or not, the license people can't change the title back to diesel by looking at VIN or lifting hood and seeing the big words across the valve cover. I have to go down to state patrol and they have to "verify". And I might have to even get an appointment for state patrol look at it. Calling tomorrow. What a hassle. Wife saves way to much. Found second smog test we got in 2008 and it shows "Diesel powered" on title. How it got changed to "gas powered" I have no idea. Thanks

Well I probably screwed up again...I'm getting very good at that. From Vulcan web site…Hoses shown are blue (at least the pic's) but in description says black. (Vulcans Description) Parker Super Flex fuel line 1/2" Hose Parker SuperFlex bio fuel compatible fuel line, up to and including B100. SuperFlex features a Nylon barrier liner, meets or exceeds SAE 30R7 specifications and is California Air Resourced Board (CARB) compliant. 1/2 in. line sold by the foot 3970X - Super-Flex FL Fuel Line Hose - CARB 2006 Approved Series 3970X Parker's new fuel line hose includes a new thermoplastic barrier that helps protect our atmosphere from harmful hydrocarbons that escape through the carcass of ordinary fuel hose. This new hose surpasses all of CARB's stringent permeation requirements and along with the SAE30R7 specifications. The Super-Flex FL hose also features an abrasion and weather resistant cover to help protect from external application abuse. NOTE: Approved for biodisel fuels that meet ASTM D 6751 requirements per UL guidelines for biodiesel compatability. 100 PSI working pressure, 4:1 Design factor Tube: NBR with a thermoplastic barrier Cover: Black Hypalon Reinforcement: Braided Polyester Temperature Range: -30°F to +257°F (-34°C to +125°C) Branding: PARKER 39708 SUPER-FLEX FL 1/2" ID LOW PERMEATION FUEL LINE – CARB 2006 APPROVED EXECUTIVE ORDER C-U-05-010 And on Parker web site. http://ph.parker.com/us/en/fuel-line-barrier-hose-super-flex-fl-series-397 Parker's Series 397 Super-Flex FL Barrier Fuel Line Hose provides excellent service across a wide variety of fuels and multiple engine applications. The thermoplastic liner serves as a barrier to limit permeation of Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC), providing compliance with government and industry regulations. The hose is qualified with permanent crimp couplings for a safe and secure connection. The cover resists oil and high temperatures common to engine compartments, providing maximum performance in challenging applications. Features/Benefits: • Tube: Black nitrile with translucent thermoplastic barrier for fuel and permeation resistance to 257°F. • Reinforcement: One textile braid or multiple textile plies for strength and kink resistance. • Cover: Black CPE for abrasion, heat and oil resistance. • Couplings: Qualified with crimp couplings for a durable, safe and secure connection. Applications: - media • Biodiesel (to B100 in dedicated and non-dedicated service) • Diesel • Ethanol • Gasoline • Oil

The fuel hose I get from Vulcan is blue. I researched before buying and even though blue on out side, some of the best stuff available IMO. Not saying all are like that. Just saying Vulcan's is blue and great stuff according to OEM spec's.

Isn't another concern with bio the material that hoses are made of?

Thanks for quick reply! I can't begin to tell you how handy this site has been to me. Even though I've own ours since 2005, I really don't know jack about them. Matter of fact that is why I bought in first place. Dependable and very little work required. But now in 2017, my hood has been up more often.