015point9

Thank you. You said... But if I am pulling fuel from fuel module (what I'm planning to do) would that make any difference pertaining to return lines?

On the fuel module…Is it desirable to have fuel return go back into “collection” basket? If so why? Am I right in my thinking or am I missing something? As long as fuel is getting sucked up with no leaks and 21 psi with ½ fuel line (at idle, don’t know about WOT yet) doesn’t really matter how return fuel is hooked up to. Other than return has to go back into tank. If fuel return matters, I can put in back in several ways…using draw straw or the fuel filler hose that has a metal fitting with connection tube or fuel module. But fuel module fittings are 3/8 inch line I think. (I fixed the sump, no longer leaks and now plugged off and want to abandon sump, so hose is no longer hanging down and routing of hose would be better at fuel module instead at sump at rear of tank). Thanks

That's worse than the guys fighting at work. Wiping some grease off the 5th wheel with your finger and slapping a dab on the steering wheel for the next guy.

We're still surprised about people we meet. All the way from guy that installed all the radio gear on the Challenger space thing, to a guy that makes well over a $100,000 a year with a on-line business. And of course other people wondering where next tank of fuel will come from. Our biggest surprise so far, was being 1200 miles from our house and the guy camped next to us lived the next block over from our house. Agree 100%. Also how many say they should of kept theirs instead of buying newer. One guy at our park pulls his RV from BC Canada to Yuma, AZ every year with his 1st gen. We're not in Yuma this year. But in late Jan another couple that is really good friends with him should be. I'll ask them for his contact info. He would surly liven this place up. He did have lots of good stories. Funniest one to me was how his wife hates Cummins. Of course, I didn't want to put my nose between a husband and wife, so didn't say or ask anything. Then he goes on to say his wife hates Cummins because she hasn't driven a car for over 20 years. Reason is Cummins is the only thing he'll buy or drive. Then he asks if I know how many cars with a Cummins in it.

As a new member just wanted to say thanks for all the help. I really can’t contribute much. Why? Well because I don’t know much. Even though I’ve had my 2001 since 2005 I have only done the simple maint stuff like change oil and filters. But that has changed after paying thru the nose for a bad install of fuel system. For last 3 years we’ve wintered in Yuma to get out of the wet of the northwest. The RV park that we stay at word travels fast. When our fuel system fell apart, the next day this guy I’ve talked to many times before walks up and asks what the problem was. At the time all I knew was truck wasn’t running and the garage was supposed to be calling soon. So we sat down, drank coffee waiting for garage to call. He tells me he’s a retired Cummins engineer and if I have any questions, just ask. I had no idea what his past life was, but we talked Cummins for the next 3 hours. I’m sure when cut he bleeds Cummins colors. Here is some of what he passed on, best I can remember. Maybe you’ll agree or maybe not. He said he worked “in between” of dodge and Cummins. Oil…brand doesn’t matter but make sure “spec” is right. Stay with dino oil. Says synthetic while an excellent good oil, it just doesn’t pay for itself in long run as it only takes a fuel injector being a little bit off to make excess soot and soot a big killer of diesel engines. Filters…He only uses fleetgaurd. And buys in person so he can inspect before buying. Gave me the whole history of why fleetgaurd filters for the last 10 years comes in plastic bag, inside of cardboard box. Think storage and humidity. What has he done to his. He says the psi in coolant system for the radiator is high in his opinion, so he runs next psi size smaller for rad cap. Thinks the oil line from tubro to engine is too small so he installed next larger size. Also when changing oil he disconnects oil line from engine and lets it dangle down to drain so he knows line is clear. Oil line has a bit of belly to it and doesn’t want any oil coking up, so by draining the line, he knows line is somewhat clear. He follows the maint book less 10 percent. Which I didn’t understand at first, but here is an example, if something is due at 100,000 miles he does it at 90,000. I could go on some more but that is jest of our talk. He had lots of stories about Cummins and Dodge. Some funny, some sad. Just thought I’d pass it on. Remember, I’m not saying any of his advice is right. And thanks for all the help LAST year.

Instrument Panel Figure 08A-135 in 2002 parts book with names and part numbers. Pick your year https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/ And while looking for a couple parts, I saw several interior parts on e-bay couple nights ago.

Great gift. We had great Christmas also. Found out Fri that wives brain tumor is shrinking thru a process that wasn't even available 3 or 4 years ago.

"015pointnine, thank you for that information. Certainly some things to think about. After you had the sump installed, did you notice any increase in fuel pressure or any less drop in pressures at WOT?" Can't answer your question. I limped back home from Yuma to Northwest with new airdog pumps using the new sump. Because old FASS pump fuel system fell apart (11 years old and 90,000 miles) Only test that was done was at different garage (because I didn't trust other guys work after seeing install) and idle and that was 21 pounds. Got back home and tore everything out in late Sept to install fuel pressure gauge and to run hose better and then wife fell apart. It's been one Dr appointment after another or raining most other days. When I put mine back together, I'm going to try to use fuel module first. If it doesn't work, going to try draw straw. Reason...with a sump the only thing you got is an "O" ring". And you're stuck with hole in bottom of tank for a long time, if you don't like it. With the module or draw straw, if anything goes wrong, at least those holes are at top of tank, not on bottom. (Be aware) Directions on FASS sump says to use "mega black" dope on screw threads. I had none. Maybe that's why I had leak, and screws were torqued way over spec, hense a couple cracked the nylon washers, which might of been reason for my leak?

"Also wondering if anyone heard of leaks from any tank sump installs. " Mine had or has a leak. Don't know which yet because waiting after Christmas to get diesel all over me again. It appears that last mechanic torqued the screws and stripped some threads on the horseshoe thing that goes inside tank, that the sump screws onto. Also I had two nylon washers cracked/broke. FASS thought maybe that's why a leak in first place? I have installed it but not tested for leaks yet. Also look up torque spec's on sump, if I remember right, 30 inch pounds. I don't have a "good" inch torque wrench. FASS said finger tight then 1/4 turn with allen wrench is same thing. A lot of trucks at where I retired from have a "cross over" fuel line at bottom of tank to equalize fuel. Over 25 year period 3 or 4 got nailed. And they had metal protection, usually just a piece of angle metal. My sump was installed at the rear of tank, just at end of my fingers when reaching in tank. Would be lots easier if sump was closer to fuel module opening. Mine is also 2 wheel drive. I don't like seeing hose that close to ground. Hopefully, I won't have to use my sump as I also have a draw straw pick up tube and modified fuel module. Idea...maybe not worth a darn but ... If you have good venting, would attaching a longer hose with maybe a coil or two laying on tank bottom with the end aimed away from anything help with cavitation?

(OP here) Reason for 90 is FASS sump is located at very end of the tank, nearest tire. Fuel line was installed (by mechanic?) the fuel line leaves the sump and runs underneath the tank to front of tank, then in frame rail to AirDog. This is on 2wheel drive, sort-of low to ground. The reason for a 90 was to run fuel line from sump, up along inside frame rail to AD. Making fuel line much less of a target for road debris. (Other notes, but drifting from original post) I've got several problems on this tank. I'm waiting for a guy at FASS to get back with me after holidays. Their (FASS) fix for the leak sounded to me like an oversize "O" ring type of affair. Not sure if fix is actually an "O" ring or not, but what they called it. Right now the sump leaks a little and dribbles fuel. The mechanic drilled the hole where one side of sump ended up at a slight curve. If FASS doesn't get back with me, I'm going to have to find a way to get sump leak tight. Neighbor says I should look into getting tank "welded" with plastic or some type of glue. I never heard of welding plastic before, but I might have to check into how to patch a hole in tank, if oversize "O" doesn't happen. I do have other options for the tank. There is a 3/8 line installed into the fuel module. And a 1/2 pick-up tube (draw straw) The 3/8 line to a FASS pump worked many years. But no matter which way I go I have to get tank leak free. After dropping the tank myself, I think the problem, the entire time, was the fuel was being restricted by all the junk built up in the fuel module. Looks like dirty slug snot That would of been easy to diagnose with a simple flow test (bucket test). Right now I can pore some fuel into the bucket of fuel module and it doesn't drain out. I've been looking for another tank. They are hard to locate. Of the two I did find, I'm not going to but at $250 (still installed) and another one, the guy wanted $400. The way things are going I might end up with a 55 gallon barrel for fuel tank. I'm lucky, as I don't need this for daily driver.

Yes, I checked Vulcan. I'm beginning to think nobody makes a 90 degree with push lock at both ends.

Looking for some fittings today on internet... 2 questions... 1. Any source for a 1/2 inch, 90 degree push lock fitting? Can't seem to find one. (2 wheel drive with a sump is getting pretty low to ground, try to keep line up much as possible) 2. Very many people use hose clamps on your push lock fittings? http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/1-2-Fuel-Line-Fuel-Pressure-T-Fitting-Adapter.aspx

Op here...All good ideas thanks. I was thinking a bicycle intertube for a cushion between strap and tank.

OK thanks... Just seems odd to me metal on plastic. Figure for tank is Figure 14-110 in parts book. In the last year tank has been 3 times by various people, only once by me. Maybe one of them didn't tighten up bolts good enough and tank was bouncing around some? Or something not put back in. I didn't want to re-install tank if something was missing.

Still have my fuel system apart. Fuel tank is on 2001 long bed and has chaff/rub marks where the metal straps makes contact. Question...What is OEM? Is there supposed to be anything in between the metal straps and plastic tank? Thanks

Any particular product you like to clean and protect the cover with. I use "protect all". But not real happy with results.

On ours, no MPG difference at least that I noticed. Under the cover to bed is 19 inches on mine. Never had any problems with people being snoopy looking underneath. We usually go south in winter. Only thing that we had to lay on its side, so cover would close was propane BBQ bottle. Made a few changes to mine. See pic

He is already talking about how much of big horsepower and how big of lift he is going to make it into. Right now, just dreams I think. Each to there own I guess. ***** "If he has any issues, you know where to point him!" I even sent him the link. He says he has spent time on the Cummins forum. I've been there also, but I don't know if my computer or what, but CM page keeps jumping around and loads real slow, atleast for me. Is problem at my end or what? This forum works great compared to CM for me.

Neighbors son in law bought 1997 from his aunt after his uncle died. 1 ton 4x4. Sure looks good. Not one single dent. Completely stock. 131,000 miles. Right mirror wiggles around at freeway speeds and one crome wheel hub is missing. Wish I would of found it.

Ya, I haven't seen much about fans. It's interesting how things change over time. 10 years ago I had work done at one of our better shops around Puget sound. Fuel system was "upgraded" to 3/8 line through out and a low pressure "idiot" light installed. No reason for a pressure gauge. That was for people with big horse power Now common place for 1/2" line and I won't be without a pressure gauge again. But some things for the better. Cleaning out some of my Moms stuff found my old diary my parents made me keep. We had three flats when were moving from North Carolina to Spokane in the early 60's. Tires much better today. Atleast I haven't had a flat tire in a long time.

My fuel system is laying on my carport floor right now. Before I re-install it I was wondering if there was anything else I might want to upgrade to make it better. Playing around on internet found a posting about cooling the VP with fans or fuel coolers. Mostly 3 or 4 people posting between 2005-2014. Seams like good idea in theory. But if idea is really good I would think there would be kits available or more info about them. I read somewhere (Blue chip diesel I think) that the most heat the VP is exposed to is the first 20 min after shutting off motor thru heat transfer. Any ideas about lowering temps in VP? Anybody have a ideas about cooling your VP? Is it possible to move your elec from VP to a cooler place, maybe using wires? (if interested...46 pages, basically dozen people recording their operating temps of VP and fuel) https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/135952-Modifying-fuel-system-so-temperature-input-to-VP44-80*-100*-your-inputs

Thanks for all the replies. I know of a gas model being parted out and maybe he still has the tank. Are our diesel tanks the same as gas tanks in 1998-2002? (side note...yes this has been a lot of frustration and $$$ with this problem. Fly by night mechanics put this thing in. It's been a long time since we've been hosed by any mechanic. Usually no problem but not this time. Not since our 1976 chevy love truck have I had this many problems with any vehicle. And to top it off, last week wife had a heart attack. One of her first words out of ER was "it's OK if truck stays broken for awhile longer, I'm not planning on riding in the back in a horizontal position any time soon".)

Thanks for reply. I was editing same time you posted. Going to consider real hard what you said. I never thought about adding a sump, sounds good idea. "Curious though, when it does die from being on an incline, how long does it take to die"? About 3 or 4 min I think. Remember this is wife marching in house saying " it ran out of fuel again" Both times her phone rang and she got distracked. I won't say what I told her "Does it need to be completely re-primed after that or can you just crank for a bit and be on your way"? I had to unscrew couple injector bolt lines. Then when I see anything wet around them or think to myself "boy long time priming this thing" I turn over key. Runs rough for maybe 20-30 seconds, then smoothes out. Then I think to myself, this is never going to happen again. When I dropped the tank to re-do fuel system because of running out of fuel and few other things I drained 9 gallons, don't know what angle driveway is but 9 gallons wasn't enough to keep fuel flowing and exposed the sump at rear of tank. Me neither...Tank has sump, the module has plugged off AN fitting with alum pipe going thru it, and has a draw straw.

Looking for a working around solution for 1/4 tank issues. Fuel is thru a sump that is at very rear of tank. When going down step hill I run out of fuel. (Actually when wife stops at mail box on our step driveway) Now she is scarred to death she'll be going downhill and run out of fuel and no power steering. I would like to install something that has more of "supply" of fuel than the small filters on airdog. Thinking about a filter housing without the filter installed, which would be just a space for more fuel than the airdog filters provide. I'm thinking about something about the 1/2 gallon size. Question...this should work if I install post airdog filters right? Or if I start sucking air anywhere in (pre or post filter ) I'm sol? I'm under the impression the pump will keep pushing fuel forward toward VP under pressure. (I know... keep tank on 1/2 or better and I won't have fuel issues...but that's not always on my mind.)

CTcummins24V said "Here's my 01, updated gear case/dowel. NO KDP " I bet I'm going to kick myself. I probably have same as you...NO KDP. But to big of chance for me not to know. Thanks