015point9

The bolts on the inside... 1. Remove and lock tite them to be sure? 2. Where does one find the torque spec's on them? What is your opinion to seal up case... RTV then gasket then RTV again? RTV only (no gasket)? Off hand "guessimate"...how many hours to R&R? (WOW, this project bigger than I thought)

Where do you get the best price and service for the type of tools and things that Geno's Garage sells. Geno's has never messed up an order of mine, but still not happy with them. Last order took nine days. Thanks

Thanks…never saw the "vent tube mod" before. Looks like really good idea. To play it safe, I better check the dowel pin. Which brings up other questions. 1. Best way for backyard mechanic to clean radiator?…spray with (dish soap or simple green etc) , let it soak and then pressure wash? 2. Anything else I should do or replace going that far in? 3. I need a special tool to remove the fan right?

Vent mod??? ...Talking about slobber tube? That's the only "vent mod" that comes to my mind. Any others? Thanks

Anybody know if the manufacture of our blocks makes any difference concerning the killer dowel pin? I've don't have number 53. Only have very small numbers. Supposedly Mexican block. But wondering if both blocks have KDP problem or just one or the other. I'm coming up on 100,000 miles, maybe not worth the hassle of checking KDP anyways. When do most dowel pins fall out? Thanks

As far as getting everything you need to install... I questioned that also. I e-mailed a pic to Vulcan and he sent me everything what I needed. Great service. He also told me about (and I bought) a Carter pump that he sells that you can install should the Airdog ever go out on the road. AN fittings disconnect from airdog and connect to carter pump and change wires and you're back up and running. Think it was $90.00 for everything. Extra pump worth it to me to not be held hostage at some garage away from home if traveling.

Set your air compressor regular for 50 psi, then check it. Then check the psi at end of a 20 foot air hose. Should be the same psi at compressor and end of hose. Pressure is pressure. Matter of fact I made sure my gauge was working before install by using air compressor at 15 pounds. Why wouldn't you see the same pressure that is pumped into a confined space one end or the other? Maybe the football used in Deflate gate should of been tested at both ends. Now to see if your pump can keep up with pressure and volume, gauge further away from pump source, better the reading. But IMO most don't like to install gauge close to VP because of the pressure it generates is not good for gauges. Matter of fact Geno's Garage wouldn't sell me a gauge without a snubber (elec gauge) when I said VP44...but whatever.

While not totally finished with my install. I get same psi reading at airdog pump (model df100) of 12 inches away from VP44 and at airdog pump, both using a snubber I'm not finished installing because other gauge wires in/under dash are fighting with me. But running wires from each location (just tangling) I get the same psi reading.

Moparman said .... "Just like my last trip of 422 miles hauling a Cummins engine down to Caldwell, ID and come home the next day. Nove 5 & 6. This includes running the interstate at 80 MPH. There isn't a P7100 setup out there that can touch this kind of fuel mileage on 24V engine. Fuel to boost management is crude at best and static timing. You might want to hop over to the Quadzilla thread and check out the improvements we are making. " OK, staying with VP44 seems to be the answer. I've been reading some about that Quadzilla thread and totally confused right now. After I get my fuel problem fixed I'm going to start learning more about elec then move on from there to bigger and better things, Quadzilla might be it. You folks will probably have all the problems worked out by then. Thanks again

Thanks everybody! Last couple months found myself learning new "festivities" under the hood. Think I want my old slant 6 back.

For the un-educated, like myself ...what are the plus and minuses of going from VP44 to a “P pump” or a "VE pump on a 2001? Recently talking with a guy that loves his. But he is into lots of horse power and mod’s. For the a stock everyday driver would the change be any good? I’m totally confused. He was talking VE and P pumps. Is going to a “P pump” or “VE pump” a horse power or dependability mod? Or maybe not even a upgrade and just create more problems? I did a search online and seemed to me people heavy into mods, a different type of pump might help them. But not sure about someone like myself that just wants to remove as many known weakness and hassles as possible. My goal if I made any changes would be to not have any more fuel problems. What are your thoughts? Thanks

Wire connection questions I have to mess around behind "A" pillar. Mostly small 18-22 gauge wire looks to me. Solder, shrink tube, dinky wire nuts, etc... What do you prefer to be the best connection as a general rule? (Bonus question...) On this forum where should postings go that are general in nature? Thanks

Thanks Couple questions... 1. Ever had any problems with 2 stroke oil not getting mixed enough the first 5 or 10 miles and feels like misfire or a miss type thing? 2. If your state has a smog test...no problem or discontinue use couple tanks before test?

I've been on the fence about using 2 stroke oil...Until today. I like to fill up on fuel when gauge is around 1/2. Questions... 1. Is your formula 1 oz per 1 gallon? 2. When filling your tank around 1/2 do you pour in 15 oz all at once or ....??? What is your method. Thanks

Thank you Never knew they were there. Very helpful

Where on here could I find those good looking wiring maps for a 2001? Thanks

My local dealer is a rip. I can go 15 miles south to next dealer and many times the same thing is 20-30% less. Not sure if modulator is OEM or not. I do know 1st mechanic put it in an after market modulator and couldn't get it to work. 2nd mechanic put the modulator back in that 1st mechanic to took out and installed a draw straw. And 3rd mechanic ripped out what he thought it didn't need and put in airdog. This was after 9 year old FASS fell apart. I would like to thank everybody for responding and sharing your knowledge with me. Great bunch of folks here. Wife says go buy a new one. Well not only can't I afford it, I would have to listen to my brother in law tell me how great his 7.3 is over and over. I've got 97,000 miles and paid $27,000 in 2005 so that works out to be a lot of money per mile. Wife is pissed that we could break down traveling. I keep telling her is doesn't matter if or when or even where we break down. We use truck for RV. If we break down, we have everything we need being towed right behind us. Yes, I'm in the dog house with my "Mighty Dodge". I do know for now on I'm going to do ALL my own work if possible. I used to not care, but this ordeal is little over $3,000 so far. Includes towing and some parts used for only a 1 or 2 (like draw straw and modulator) Once again would like to thank everybody!!!

Thanks folks...Ordered one today. $169.99 from dealer or around $95 from Geno's (with shipping)

Op here...I'm not really sure if its OEM or not. I do now 1st mechanic put in after market module couldn't get it to work. 2nd mechanic put in draw straw and then abandoned and put old module back in (the one pictured, but don't know if OEM or not) and couldn't get it to work. Then 3rd mechanic put in airdog system using a sump. And that is exactly why I joined this site. Going to do it right this time by myself. Well that's with you folks helping me. It has been a long time since I got hosed but certainly did last time around. Have $3,000 into it, includes about $500.00 for parts used one or two days. Rest in airdog pump and towing bill. Wife says just go buy a new one. There is no way...I spent $27,000 when we got it in 2005. Coming up on 97,000 miles. That equals $3.88 a mile That's to much. And buying a new one is upping $60,000 and giving $6,000 to the state off the top. To make matters worse, my brother in law keeps telling me about is 7.3 with over 200,000 miles. We only use it to travel with RV. I keep telling wife, if we break done she already has everything we needs being towed right behind us. So it doesn't matter where or when we break down. Boy am I in the dog house. Here are pic's of module

My fuel tank is out right now and my fuel gauge is not very accurate. Thinking now would be the time to change fuel sender, being tank is already dropped. Question...to test the new sender before installing tank back up... can I extend the wires using jumpers maybe 4 feet to test new sender that would be laying on ground about 3 feet away, fill up maybe ¼ and turn on key , repeat at ½ to make sure new sender is working OK before I put tank back up? Is that a "go" or some reason I shouldn't? Thanks

Found this in my files of where a probe should be, at least according to some. Where to stick the probe is like asking which tire is best IMO Anyway thought this might help

Thanks for info. If it makes any difference here is pic of rest of the "Frankenstein" fuel tank.

The new setup, the fuel line goes from the sump on tank to the airdog pump and filters and then to VP44. Can I just unbolt and remove the OE set up? I got drivers side and passenger side messed up while looking up from underneath

Filter look pretty good for that many miles IMO. Brother in law drives a tanker truck around. Usually BSing with friends at refineries. Some of them really into diesel type science. One of them sent him this and he sent to me. Lots of little nuggets but most interesting to me was... " In recent years, many retailers have moved to 10-micron porosity filters. Most high flow dispensers, such as those used at truck stops, still use 30-micron porosity filters due to flow rate concerns. As of 2014, NCWM is considering a filtration recommendation of nominal 10-micron porosity filters for passenger car and light duty diesel dispensers at service stations3." https://www.ncwm.net/resources/dyn/files/1293694z6889285b/_fn/LR-Item_237-3-CRC+667.pdf

Op here... Looks like one line goes to OEM fuel filter, that is no longer being used. Other line is connected with a banjo bolt on passenger side near rear of motor. Top of module...1 line goes to long rubber hose. Other line goes to the white nipple next to where black hose connects. AN fitting that is blocked off is where old FASS was hooked up to. The gray nipple (about 1200 position in pic) nothing is connected. I assume a vent?