015point9

I'll check that out. Looks to me airdig line back to tank from pump and 2 alum tubes (may 1/4) lines coming back from motor. Will check out and get back. Thanks Would it be alright to plug off line to VP just after gauge and use air to test pressure gauge? My regulator on air compressor is accurate than one of my tire gauges.

Op here adding on with couple of questions... Also the sump had a little leak, turns out 2 bolts are bad, ordered a few more couple min ago from FASS, won't see parts till Fri. $47.00 for that horse shoe clamp thing at the bottom of tank, plus $8.00 shipping. My modulator has the AN fitting on top of it, that was used over 9 years when FASS was put in (2005). When the 9 year old pump quit, the mechanic put in the new draw straw because he said the straw in modulator was not strong enough for as hard as these pumps suck. Even though it worked for over 9 years. I didn't question it at the time. All I knew at the time the truck ran like it was running out of fuel. (I bet it still works) Then after mechanic installed a new draw straw (close to the bucket but not in) it didn't work right and he said a sump was best way to go. Then after sump installed said it was the pump. Then we drove from Yuma to Seattle. Wanted to cleaning up the "hack" job of an install. Shorten the fuel hose and wiring that was dangling down almost hitting the ground, and the pump rubbing on the brake line and return lines etc. So thought I would "clean up" the sloppy work before I installed pressure gauge. Not whining, just how it turned out. This has been our first bad experience with owning the "mighty Dodge". So in the mean time while waiting for parts, thinking about doing the following. Start at the other end of the fuel system and install the pressure gauge. Being the tank is removed, after installing pressure gauge, run the fuel system out of a 5 gallon bucket, so I can test pressure gauge and rest of system. I think what hoses need to end up in the bucket are: -airdog supply line to VP44 -airdog return line -2 return lines from motor also in bucket. Any suggestions? Thanks

I dropped the fuel tank today to clean up extra hoses and tubes and fix a small leak at the sump. I had no idea I had so much stuff on top of the tank. The end of the straw is probably a match head of inch from bottom of tank. What is your best guess of why a draw straw would be installed one day and next day after installing it says he is going to install a sump? Thanks

Gauges...You're going to have to figure out what you want. Mechanical or elec. I just got an elec Autometer pressure gauge last month because it matched my series of gauges. At the time didn't know that Isspro has an elec pressure gauge that has built in programmable warning light. If doing it over again I would seriously consider.

Time to change diff oil. I tow a 9,000 trailer most of the time. Going to get magnetic plug. Also any benefits of changing to Royal Purple 75w-140? I believe it is Dana 70. 4.10 gearing. Limited slip. Thanks

Thank you folks...

(sorry still leaning how to edit)

Those that have R&R your fuel tank by yourself..... Any hassles dropping it by yourself? What do think the empty weight is? Thanks

I replaced my Les Schawb batteries last year that were in truck when I got it used in 05. They were still good but doing a battery load test they were at lower end. So thought it was time. I don't know how they knew when the batteries were built, but they were built in 03. They said I was a couple years short from their record at my local store. Batteries are the only thing Les Schawb is allowed on my stuff anymore. So not an advertisement for them, but I think their batteries are good. Not cheap, If I recall right around $120 each. But over 10 years of service the price worked out good for me. Brother in law in Spokane buys "blems". If you are near Spokane and want to now where he gets "blems" from let me know, and I'll call him.

Currently I have a FASS draw straw and a sump with a new Airdog DF 100 system. The new Airdog system is hooked up to a sump and currently the draw straw is plugged off at the fittings. I recently got a Carter for a back up pump. I would like to keep the sump for the Airdog and its filters and run a fuel line close to the VP44 with shut off valve. And then hook up the carter via the draw straw thru to the stock fuel filter on motor then to a shut off valve. With a shut off valve on each line, I would open that valve for the line I’m using at the time. Then install pressure gauge, then to VP44. And install a toggle switch for on/off switch to each pump. Questions… Can I use the draw straw for the carter pump? Any of this have any merit? (For more back ground, and why I want a back up system) 9 year old FASS pumps installed on 01 Dodge, many miles from home and the low fuel pressure light comes on. I had no pressure gauge but currently installing one. Mechanic (1) installs new fuel modulator as fuel was leaking around the top. But I’m not sure if modulator really was the problem. Mechanic did come recommended, but believe it or not. But he couldn’t get it started and didn’t know how to prime the fuel system. Great guy but turned out didn’t know anything about diesel. (At the time I even knew how to prime the fuel system). Mechanic (2) said mechanic (1) screwed up the wiring so he re-wired top of fuel modulator and the FASS pumps. Mechanic (2) felt the replacement fuel modulator straw was not strong enough and the straw was collapsing under pressure so he also installed a FASS drawstraw. Drove it for one day and felt like it was running out of fuel. I took it back and basically he wanted to throw more parts at it. Mechanic (3) Looked at everything done by other mechanic’s and decided the best thing to do was to go with a sump and new pump system (airdog). His job did work and got us home, but oh what a sloppy install. My truck is 2 wheel drive (so sort of low ) and the fuel line hose is just hanging down from sump , the mounting bracket the pump is mounted to is rubbing against brake line, wiring job looks like a kid did it, etc. So going to clean up the mechanic’s (3) work and thought hooking up the cater pump to draw straw while I’m at it might be good idea. Thanks

Couple suggestions...Red Head steering was very helpful to me in past. They might help with the parts you are missing. https://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/contact/ Plan B... brother inlaw needed a bearing for his John Deere 40 built in 1953. He pulled the bearing and took it to an actual bearing company and they matched it up in about 10 min.

deehammer...Thanks for your input. I used to feel exactly like you until our pump failed many miles from home. Ended up with very limited choices on mechanics. And couldn't work on it myself because lack of knowledge (at the time) and the RV place we were in had a cow when I started to drop the tank. That is what getting the back up pump is about for me. Not having my choices limited. Overall I agree with you 100% , But last experience changed my mind. And just about finished installing a fuel pressure gauge. Bet I'm the only one that has an Airdog pump because mechanic didn't speak English. Airdog had tech that could speak Spanish to our mechanic.

Picked up a cater pump for backup pump just in case of airdog failure. Not sure what is best for pump, if I should mount it now or wait till I need it, if I ever do. Choices are: Carry carter pump under rear seat in plastic bag. ...Ready to go if and when I need it. Who knows when I might need it, but pump gets no exercise but is not exposed to weather, etc. OR mount it now next to airdog pump? ...Exposed to weather, and I'll probably will hook it up maybe twice a year to make sure still works. What would yo do? Thanks for your input.

That's a fact!..."plenty to read" Thank you.

I thought I had every wiring diagram in my books. Can't find the one you posted. I have body diagnostic, diesel powertrain and chassis diagnostic but don't see what you posted. Where are they located? Thanks very much.

Thanks for reply...The dash bezel and headlight switch and knee bolster are removed. Existing wiring and gauges are Autometer, “Z” series. I have a much better view with them removed but still can’t tell where power side is fused to. The wire disappears into abyss of other wires. Going to hit up neighbor kid to lay on his back and see what he can. Not certain but I think the gauges are tapped into light cig lighter. Is that common and which fuse is that?

Simple question about elec trouble shooting? I'm installing a elec low pressure gauge. Already installed for many years are trans, boost, and egt's. Batteries are disconnected. Looks like gauges are "daisy chained" together. IE wires for power and ground to gauges all tied together and then disappear under dash. I'm going to add the low fuel pressure gauge to them. Wire disappears up under dash where I can't see or tell where the wires grounded or where they are getting power. (Access for me right now is behind the headlight switch, whole dash is not pulled) Question...To find where power is coming from and what fuse....hook up a volt meter to gauge wire that I can see. Other probe, check metal nub on top of the fuses. When I hit the right fuse, buzzard on volt meter should sound off? Right, or am I missing something? (not sure where to post common elec problem on this forum) Thanks

Here is an TSB with "pic's" TSB 05-04-98 Models: 1997-99 BR/BE trucks THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO 2500 SERIES 4X4 VEHICLES THAT ARE CONTINUOUSLY OPERATED A 75% OR GREATER GVW AND HAVE THEIR REAR SUSPENSION ALTERED TO INCREASE RIDE HEIGHT AND ARE BUILT AFTER THE FOLLOWING DATES: LAGO ALBERTO ("M" IN THE 11TH VIN POSITION) AFTER APRIL 3, 1997 MDH 0403XX ST. LOUIS NORTH ("J" IN THE 11TH POSITION) AFTER MARCH 17, 1998 MDH 0301XX SALTILLIO PLANT ("G" IN THE 11TH POSITION) AFTER APRIL 3, 1997 MDH 0403XX Discussion: Those vehicles are equipped with a rear height sensing valve that adjusts brake pressure to the rear brakes based upon the distance between the vehicles frame and rear axle. In situations where the vehicle is operated ALL THE TIME at or above 75% of the GVW AND the vehicle suspension has been altered, removal of the rear height sensing device may be necessary to help prolong the front pad life and provide suitable braking performance. CAUTION: THIS PROCEDURE SHOULD ONLY BE PERFORMED ON 2500 SERIES 4X4 VEHICLES THAT ARE CONTINUOUSLY OPERATED AT 75% OR GREATER GVW AND HAVE HAD THEIR REAR SUSPENSION ALTERED. Parts: 1 52009575AB HOSE, Brake Repair: This bulletin involves replacing the rear height sensing proportioning valve with a brake hose. Raise and support vehicle. Remove link from axle bracket (fig 1). Remove the brake line adapter from the rear height sensing proportioning valve bracket (fig 2). Remove the hose from the axle. Remove two nuts from frame mounting bracket and remove valve assembly. Attach new brake hose to brake line bracket on frame rail. Connect brake line at frame to new hose. Bleed the brake system.

Hate to bug you guys with 101 questions.......I've been using Wix airfilters for years. Last one I bought (late last year) didn't have the foam material on the back. I thought someone forgot to put it on. Today shopped for a new one at Auto zone. Again no foam backing that Wix has put on for years. Looked on Amazon and the pic has foam backing but in comments others have noticed no foam backing of what is actually shipped. https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-46272-Heavy-Filter/dp/B000C9UKTU Called Wix and their FAQ people said they are no longer using the foam backing and "but what is sold today meets or exceeds OEM". I'm pretty well stock, but I do place priority on filters and fluids. Are those air filters that look like a mushroom type thing any better with more filtration than OEM or more of a performance type item? Any recommendations? What do you run if it exceeds OEM? Thanks

Started working on my Airdog pump and low pressure fuel gauge today. Pressure tested at the Airdog port and it shows 21 ½ pounds on one of Vulcans gauges. I’ve read people like 15-17psi . I assume the psi would be the same closer to vp44. Question 1…Is 21 psi OK or is it too high and might damage pump? Model of pump is DF 100 which I think is not adjustable, but not 100% sure. The pump is mounted with the fuel line from Airdog just the way they ship it and was not cut to fit. So pump is about ½ way between VP44 and sump at tank. To take up the slack in the fuel line, the guy put a circle bend in the line under the airhorn and already chaffed. Line is also rubbing on the frame at several places on frame. If I put the pump on outside of frame there is lot less to rub on. But I have to raise pump about 8 inches (pumping up hill usually not good for pump I know) The bolts holding pump in place are almost finger tight. If bolts to mounting bracket were tight, looks like they will smash the brakelines. But I could put in a spacer of some sort. But would prefer to mount airdog on outside of frame and extend fuel line to vp44 and shorten fuel line from pump to tank. Question 2…Are these pumps better at pushing or sucking or does it matter? And going vertical 8 inches might be a “drag” on system or would it be? Thanks

Me78569 Thanks...Makes perfect since.

I want to do a battery load test with volt meter. Which fuse would be best to pull in your opinion. Or what is best. Thanks

Dripley... Thanks and no offense taken. I thought maybe thread going side ways because I used wrong terminology. OK, took my info from profile and put into sig line. Hope I did it right, I'll see after I hit submit button.

Thanks folks...I've been thinking to myself about how this is going to work with bigger holes in the bolt. I do have some other stuff coming from Vulcan. Not knowing really what I needed, when I called I said "just send me what I need". Maybe bigger bolts will be in shipment? I know I don't know much about these things. Even though I've owned it since 2005. I'm just now beginning to fix stuff when something goes wrong. My system right now is. Fuel leaves tank at sump. Then to Airdog FP-100 then to vp44. The bolt at vp44 is one of these in pic, called a sae j2044 quick connect fittings according to Airdog instructions. I don't see how oversize bolts from Geno's will work??? What am I missing in my thinking?? I can say without any hesitation I'm not the sharpest bulb under the hood with a wrench. Thanks