
Everything posted by Scottfunk
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Aaxle slop
Will do. Seems like the hardest part is the pinion cd. After playing around in there this weekend I know I don't want to be on and off with the inner pinion nearing over and over. I'll make the old bearings into setup parts and everything else seems pretty simple. With the slop that I had I don't feel right about using the old pinion cd +/- the new (plus my old pinion doesn't even have numbers on the top of the head). The process for finding that from scratch seems really complex but I want it perfect.
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New Tire Size found 235's to 245's
Sweet thanks! That's just a smidge lower than my 5th gear which should work out fine for towing. Grimjeeper.com says I can expect right about 80 ad the same ~2060 RPM'S. 4.10 it is then.
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Aaxle slop
So I know what I'm about to describe is extremely unorthodox, and I'm not recommending anyone to try it, but I've been rebuilding engines since I was 12 years old and I've learned to trust my gut on these things. Plus, this is only a temporary fix and ALL parts involved are slated to be replaced in the next few months. More for experimentation sake than really trying to correct any issue or problem. Believe me, when I go to put a new set of gears in my truck that I want to last the next 20 years I will have every tool and brand new part available. That being said, I know the pinion was too loose and looking at the wear pattern on the gears I felt I had enough room on the ring to adjust it with pinion shims rather than preload. So I found a thrust washer leftover from a transmission rebuild and ground it down slowly until, when I torqued the pinion nut as tight as I could, I was able to spin the pinion with some difficulty with one finger midway between the center of the pinion and the outside of the yoke. Each time I checked the preload I also installed the carrier to check for binding between the pinion and the ring. As it would happen, when I got the preload to the point it "felt" right to me the carrier also turned freely and I could hear just the slightest hum as the gears meshed deeply but no bind whatsoever. With the pinion in and torqued, and the carrier in and torqued, I could still turn the pinion at the same midway point with one finger although occasionally when it stopped it would take slightly more effort to get it started again. I then disassembled the whole thing one more time, greased the bearings, and put it back together. I did reuse my pinion nut but, because I plan on installing a new one with the gear kit I buggered up the threads right where the nut threads meet the pinion threads with a cold chisel. Like real good. I did notice that when I put the carrier back in the housing I was not able to move it side to side at all, even with the cap bolts just over hand tight. I feel like new bearings here will require some persuasion to get the carrier back in, but no shim. We'll see. Anyways, one more odd observation I made was the lack of a press in seal where the axle tubes meet the center housing. There was what seemed to be a bead of caulk there but it was way to uniform and neat to have just been squeezed in there. I'll have to post a pic when I swap gears. This is just my observation about the innards of my Dana 70 rear end and is in no way intended to be a guide or advice to others. I will be driving the crap out of it between now and then to fully test how my "feelings" translate to real world usability.
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Aaxle slop
Thanks @sooxies this will be daily reading until I do the gear swap. The rear axle of my truck odd one of the few parts I know for sure will be sticking around indefinitely so I plan to treat it right. Already swapped to disc brakes and added traction bar mounts. I'll be doing all of the seals and bearings with the gear swap and hope to make it last another 200k miles.
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New Tire Size found 235's to 245's
@SilverMoose that is exactly the height of tire I'm looking at (33.8"). Which trans do you have? Curious how my final FINAL drive ratio compares to mine.
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24 Valve ECM overheating?
Will do!
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Aaxle slop
So I have been experiencing a gnarly vibration coming from somewhere in the drivetrain. The slip yoke into the transmission and the entire driveshaft is brand new so I'm inclined to rule them out. Nevertheless I inspected them and the u joints as I removed them and did not find any slop anywhere. Once I had the driveshaft off I noticed that the pinion had quite a bit of play both in rotation and in-n-out movement. I decided to tear down the pumpkin just to see what it looks like in there (I'm planning on changing gearsets in the next few months and thought exploring a bit in there couldn't hurt). I noticed the wear pattern seems to be way off toward the heel (outer circumference) of the ring gear and a lack of wear on the toe end of the pinion (see pictures). I've never built an axle before but this wear pattern would seem to confirm that the pinion is too loose and pushing itself out of the ring gear under acceleration and then just kind of wobbling around in there at cruise speeds and making the vibration. Before removing the axle shafts I rotated the carrier back and forth and found that the spider gears visibly moved in and out on their shaft adding even more play as the carrier spins. Lastly, when I removed the last carrier bearing bolt the whole carrier fell out, plop, and landed right on the sway bar. I have heard stories of people needing case spreaders to get carriers out, so this too seemed odd. I also noted the lack of a crush sleeve or anything to set preload on the pinion. So my questions are this: 1. How much of this seems odd to me just because I have zero experience in this part of my truck? 2. What are the chances that I'm going to damage something if I goop up the cover, add fresh oil, and run it for another few months? 3. What's the best source of info for setting up the rear end so I can get everything set up properly when I do swap gears? 4. Does anyone have a good 4.10 ring and pinion set for sale?
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24 Valve ECM overheating?
Well I explained the whole issue at the beginning of the thread but basically it cranks and won't startstart. But I'm pretty sure the ecm isn't the problem because one of the symptoms is also that the auxiliary trans cooler doesn't run at key on like it's supposed to (or like it's wired to more accurately). It's something in the truck's ignition wiring that feeds ignition on to the pdc. And no wait to start, check the sig
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24 Valve ECM overheating?
Something stops working when it gets hot. I thought it was the ecm overheating but I think I've concluded it's upstream from there. Something in the ignition wire that runs from the truck's ignition system to the main power distribution center that runs the engine and trans and all associated equipment.
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New Tire Size found 235's to 245's
FYI Grimmjeeper.com has a much more in depth calculator that anything else I've seen. It will give you the actual final drive ratio (trans, r&p, tire size), speed at a given rpm, RPM's at a given speed, plus some other stuff if you want it.
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24 Valve ECM overheating?
Nope but it left me stranded at the pizza parlor last night so I plan to take my electrical tester today and drive it till she acts top.
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New Tire Size found 235's to 245's
@Mopar1973Man what I'm looking to do is incorporate the trans final ratio into that. Do I multiply the tire/axle ratio by the trans ratio? Or maybe divide it? Just trying to calculate a level playing field so I can plan my tire/gear setup to get in a more useable range. I would be surprised if I'm getting 16mpg on the freeway although I have no real way of checking it as yet. When I do the final wiring under the hood I will be reinstalling the factory Chevy pcm so I can have my stock Speedo and odo again.
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New Tire Size found 235's to 245's
@Mopar1973Man is there a way to compute an actual "final ratio" that includes the diameter of the tires? I think that might help
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New Tire Size found 235's to 245's
I'm confused. First of all I hate metric tire sizes. Mine are 265/70/17 which the calculator says is 31.5". I have 3.54 gearing in my axles but I'm not seeing 2000 rpm until somewhere around 88 mph. Maybe the.61 ratio of sixth in the Allison is taller than what you guys are running? If I'm planning on running 315/70/17's (34.4") with the 5/6 ratios of .71 and.61 respectively, what gearset should I be looking for? I do routinely drive 75/80mph unloaded. Haven't done any towing yet but I do have the ability to turn off 6th gear and stick with the higher rpm's when towing. Thoughts? So I opened my mind a bit and ran a few different tire sizes through the calculator. If I go with a 305/70/17 with the 4.10 ratio that will put me at 1960 RPM's and 78 mph in 6th gear which is where I do most of my highway driving. With sixth gear cancelled I'll be hitting 1960 rpm's at 68 which seems like a pretty decent cruise speed for light/medium towing. Does that sound like a decent range? I too am contemplating new tires and don't want to end up fighting egt's or the cost at the pump.
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24 Valve ECM overheating?
No, the ecm provides only trigger for the fass, sorry I'm extremely add and sometimes I think I said something when I didn't. Anyways I think I've determined the problem is upstream from the ecm. Thank you guys for making think through this all the way.
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24 Valve ECM overheating?
Everything under the hood is controlled through a secondary loom. Check the signature, hehe. She's not stock. But no, the fass is controlled by the ecm just like it should be, that was what got me thinking the problem was in the ecm. But after saying trans cooler enough times I remembered the control for that comes from the vehicle ignition hot. So it would appear the problem comes from something before the ecm.
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24 Valve ECM overheating?
You know, I think my original plan was to tap into the vp signal to run a relay to power all the new under hood systems, ie the fan, trans cooler fan, intercooler fan and pump, etc but now that you mention it I think I decided against that and used an abandoned ignition hot instead. No there is definitely not anything being powered directly by the ecm that was not originally designed that way. So that's good news I guess, it's not the ecm. Still no closed to a solution.
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24 Valve ECM overheating?
A.Cummins has no spark plugs so I'm not sure what ac noise means. The ecm is bolted to the block and grounded to the frame and body.
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24 Valve ECM overheating?
There's something under the hood of my truck that doesn't like the heat. During spring I never had any problems, as it started to warm up symptoms got more frequent, and now that the temps are nearing 100° I can only drive for about an hour and the ecm shuts off. If I wait for about a half hour it will come back on again. The ignition system is working because my volt gauge works, and the truck turns over, but the fuel pump and my trans cooler fan that is also controlled by ecm power doesn't run. Any ideas where to start?
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New Tire Size found 235's to 245's
I put engine load on my quadzilla for the commute home today. At 65 mph the load is ~34%. I don't see low 20's until I'm well over 80 mph. That's with the 265/70/17's on. So I guess the sweet spot is the point where lowering the rpm's and lowering the load meet? I wonder what the math looks like for computing engine load. According to the Spicer calculator if I go up to 4.11 (or down I guess, technically) and up to a 34" tire I can hit 1960 rpm's just below 80. Sounds like I'll be hunting for some gears. Does changing ratio above 3.73 require changing the carrier also like in the gm's? I take it back...4.56 will get me to 1960 at 72 mph and I'm positive that requires a carrier swap. Good thing one of my top 10 things to do is junk yard research?
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New Tire Size found 235's to 245's
@Mopar1973Man all this talk of rpm's, egt's, and engine load got me to thinking...I'm still fairly new to the diesel world but I understand that more fuel means more heat in a diesel, opposite a gasoline engine. So would it be safe to say that, as a snapshot of engine efficiency, egt's could be used much the same way a vacuum gage is used in a gasoline engine to determine fuel efficiency? What is your egt cruising down the freeway at 65 with your new setup?
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New Tire Size found 235's to 245's
1960 RPM's at 65? Wow! The Chummy cruises 1860 RPM's at 80 with 265/70 r17. I guess the sixth gear (.61) in the Allison really does keep the RPM's down. Thank God I don't pay for my own fuel anymore! Sounds like I'll be in the market for some 3.73's when i jump up a couple sizes in the rubber.
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Defueling at 1900 rpm fummins
I wanna say they're all Motorola. I got mine from a place called Diaz salvage parts out of Hillsboro Texas. Nice guys. Find them on eBay and shoot them an offer, they're reasonable. Unless there's an auto parts store close enough to limp down to and borrow an on a scanner. Maybe it'll tell you something. You'll have to do the full wiring job for that. I put my new obd connector in the center console with my tow/haul and 6th cancel.
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Defueling at 1900 rpm fummins
Yeah you're gonna want to find a comfy spot for the pcm. In an automatic application the ecm needs to see the communication with the pcm to function properly. It has to stay, I'm sorry. I didn't like it either but there's no way around it. Is your ecm also an auto?
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Defueling at 1900 rpm fummins
I gotta believe it's one of those things Chrysler did to make things difficult...er Dodge I mean. Just like "special" ecm's and cad's. I mean seriously, center axle disconnect? Every other manufacturer is using hubs and Chrysler makes Spicer manufacture special cad's just for them. If it wasn't for the fact that the sensor in the cad works great with my Yukon's push button transfer case I'd write them a nasty letter.