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Scottfunk

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Scottfunk last won the day on November 12 2018

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About Scottfunk

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    Project Chummy

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    Boise Idaho

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  1. I'm replacing my injection pump next weekend and rebuilding my fuel system to include a bottom sump and a pressure gauge (doh). I have always struggled with egt's on the Chummy. I'm looking at all of the turbo options and it's just so confusing. This is my first turbo diesel truck and I've been reading and reading and I just can't seem to wrap my mind around all the parameters. I'm happy with the power I have now and spool is good but I just can't seem to get my egt's below 800* at cruising speeds. 35's geared to 4.10. I run exactly 1860 RPM's at 70mph and I still have high egt's. I have had the injectors rebuilt and I have searched extensively for boost leaks. I have my quadzilla set on the basic tune and I drive it daily on level 4/10. My exhaust is 4" down to 5" straight with no muffler. Would a 35/40 be the best bet since I'm happy with everything else, I just need more volume up top? Or would I be better off with a 40?
  2. Gasser? No way. I have the only 24 valve, 6 speed Allison powered Yukon in the world and I like it that way. But i am considering trading in my 24 valve for a 6.7.
  3. I have the pcm and obd plug installed but I don't have the instrument cluster to display codes. Maybe I'll see if I can borrow a scanner.
  4. Ok I'm really hoping I am not going to be in the market for an injection pump. Recently my truck started cutting out under moderate to heavy acceleration. Cruising at about 30% load on my quadzilla readout it seemed ok but if I got into it, it would run ok for a few seconds and slowly die down to 38%. Just before it quit running it would drop slowly until it got to about 10%. I stopped at a store and when I came out it wouldn't start. All through this the reading from the tps matched the reading on the quadzilla so I don't think it's dead pedal. After having it towed home and doing some digging I find I'm not getting fuel at the injectors. I have power at the vp plug, and I'm getting fuel from my fass pump. Another thing I noticed, whether it's relevant or not I don't know, but when I bump the starter and listen to the pump it sounds like it builds pressure and then sounds like it's not making pressure. Is it possible the fuel pressure regulator in the vp itself is not working? Please any suggestions!
  5. Scottfunk

    Scottfunk

  6. OK I tried to take a screenshot on the way home but try that in rush hour traffic. Anyways, best I can tell cruising,70MPH, on flat ground my load% is 26. But oddly enough, sitting at a stop it's 12%. 7% idling in park. What gives?
  7. I have regeared the pumpkins to 4.10. With the smaller tires I was right at 1860RPM at 70MPH and now with the 35's I'm closer to 1730 at 70. I'll probably step back down a size when I have to buy new rubber. I'm between 7-9 PSI cruising at 70MPH depending on the grade of the road. Engine load jumps between 24 and 33. The injectors were just built earlier this month and are 50 horse injectors popped at 315. Before I changed the tires I was having problems with high egt's. I was up around 840* at 70MPH. I chased down quite a few boost leaks and was able to get it down in the low 600's. There were still a couple minor leaks I knew about. After I changed to the bigger tires I was back up around 850* but after sealing up the compressor housing, intake plate, and grid heater housing I am back in the mid 600's. I will check the load numbers on the way home tonight. What is the best way to dial back the timing a little for winterized fuel? Just bump it down a couple degrees across the equalizer or in the individual timing settings? I have not played around in the Quad custom tunes much but everytime I do it seems like I make it worse.
  8. I agree. I don't know exactly what size the holes in the banjo are but I still have the fitting at home...I'll check it when I get home from work. I definitely don't remember them being any bigger that 1/8" so basically it doesn't matter if you run a fire hose up to this fitting, if that's the point of restriction you'll never flow any more than that banjo allows. I don't believe I have excessive drag...other than the 35" mudders I put on last week, hehe. Everything in the trans is brand new and all the clutch clearances were exactly middle of the specs so I don't think that's the problem. I put the truck on jack stands and the rear wheels spin freely, as do the fronts. Stopped, and in gear, if you let your foot of the brake the truck feels like it gets moving on its own without excessive resistance. I really think this is an internal thing. I'm going to make a new boost test boot (I blew the last one up) and I'll check for leaks again. I'm new to this whole positive pressure intake situation and it's kind of blowing my mind.
  9. If I recall this banjo had a 5/16" line going into it. Those two puny little holes don't hold a candle to a 3/8" swept elbow. In any event I'm getting too much fuel. What would you suggest? My turbo is not the he351 so would I be gaining by doing the 35/40 hybrid or would it be better to pick up a 351? I'm planning on going VGT at some point this year so I don't want to sink too much into it but would like to increase my efficiency some in the meantime.
  10. So I'm still working through this. My egt's are still higher than I'd like and I've done everything I can think of. This weekend I replaced the intake plate gasket and RTV'd the hell out of it, as well as the compressor cover on my hx35. While I was putting the fuel system back together I got to thinking about the fuel inlet. Since I was doing a conversion I had the opportunity to build the whole fuel system from scratch. I replaced the banjo fitting going into the injection pump with a 3/8" elbow. The reason I'm mentioning this is I'm wondering if I'm producing more fuel at any given throttle than the hx35 can keep up with. Any chance a 35/40 hybrid would help keep up with the fuel I'm supplying to the engine?
  11. No the back end of the housing. I like your idea of some rtv there but getting that snap ring back in there sucks.
  12. What's the easiest way to get that stupid ring back in there. I think rtv is a great idea but the last time I had it apart it took nearly an hour just to get the ring back in. Finally had to ask my wife for help...that wasn't embarrassing.
  13. Nope. I buy that one though because the seats aren't "lapped in" like a high performance set of valves would be. Now that I have a better understanding of how much pressure these things make it makes sense to me. If the orifice sizes are measured in thousandths of an inch then a ten thousandth of an inch variance from the manufacturing process could have a measurable effect. The tech that rebuilt them said he recently rebuilt his own injectors and went from 20mpg to 14. Believe me I'll be watching cuz crap mileage was what sent me on this journey anyways. As far as boost leaks I did make a plug for the turbo inlet and test it. I'm surprised I was able to make any boost at all! Leaks everywhere! This is my first experience with turbos and diesels and such so it was a bit of a learning curve but I think I'm gaining on it. Wish everything didn't have to rattle itself loose though, lol. Even the dang half moon hold downs that keep the turbo cartridge attached to the exhaust housing were coming loose. I really don't know how this thing even ran. If nothing else I have really enjoyed learning more about these amazing engines and I'm finally getting to where I've rebuilt everything in the truck twice and am finally happy with it. On to the interior... Ya know, I've heard it both ways. But here's my take...the compressor wheel doesn't even press fit onto the shaft, nor does it have any splines on it. It simply slides on and is held in place by the reverse threaded nut there. In my opinion if the engineers had thought it was that critical to maintain the alignment they would've put some sort of positive retention in there. Just my $.02. Also, I like that it has an odd number of vanes and I believe that helps. If you ever spend a bunch of time just staring at the rims of the cars around you almost all of them have 5 spokes to the wheels. I think this is done to minimize out of balance issues but I could be wrong. Again, all totally just my opinions but I believe the facts speak for themselves.
  14. I think I'll try a 3.3k resistor and see how that works. I think mid 120's *F is where I get the smoothest performance. My only question is this: does the ECM not think there's something odd about an IAT in the 120's when the coolant temp is less than 32*?
  15. Well I got the new compressor wheel in today. Didn't see any drastic changes in EGT or Load% but there was some improvement. The guy at the shop where I got my injectors rebuilt said to expect to burn through a little extra fuel in the first 10,000 miles so I guess I'll just have to be patient. The improvement in power was DEFINITELY noticeable though. YEEHAAAAA!!! Ignore the tooling marks around the outside of the wheel that was just me trying to get the wheel off without pulling the whole cartridge. I use a diaper rash paste to check the alignment when I set up ring and pinions, it's basically fish oil with a zinc additive. Would this be a safe substance to use to wipe a little around the tip of my fuel tubes to check the seat in the injectors? I just recently read the specs on torque for the fuel line/fuel tube retaining nut and I grossly overtightened them. I don't have any specific reason to want to check but I'm a bit of a worry wart and even more of a perfectionist.
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