Jump to content
Mike Needs Help with Medical Bills Read more... ×


  • Content Count

  • Donations

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Scottfunk last won the day on November 12 2018

Scottfunk had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

27 Unskilled

About Scottfunk

  • Rank
    Project Chummy

Personal Information

  • Location
    Boise Idaho

Recent Profile Visitors

641 profile views
  1. No the back end of the housing. I like your idea of some rtv there but getting that snap ring back in there sucks.
  2. What's the easiest way to get that stupid ring back in there. I think rtv is a great idea but the last time I had it apart it took nearly an hour just to get the ring back in. Finally had to ask my wife for help...that wasn't embarrassing.
  3. Nope. I buy that one though because the seats aren't "lapped in" like a high performance set of valves would be. Now that I have a better understanding of how much pressure these things make it makes sense to me. If the orifice sizes are measured in thousandths of an inch then a ten thousandth of an inch variance from the manufacturing process could have a measurable effect. The tech that rebuilt them said he recently rebuilt his own injectors and went from 20mpg to 14. Believe me I'll be watching cuz crap mileage was what sent me on this journey anyways. As far as boost leaks I did make a plug for the turbo inlet and test it. I'm surprised I was able to make any boost at all! Leaks everywhere! This is my first experience with turbos and diesels and such so it was a bit of a learning curve but I think I'm gaining on it. Wish everything didn't have to rattle itself loose though, lol. Even the dang half moon hold downs that keep the turbo cartridge attached to the exhaust housing were coming loose. I really don't know how this thing even ran. If nothing else I have really enjoyed learning more about these amazing engines and I'm finally getting to where I've rebuilt everything in the truck twice and am finally happy with it. On to the interior... Ya know, I've heard it both ways. But here's my take...the compressor wheel doesn't even press fit onto the shaft, nor does it have any splines on it. It simply slides on and is held in place by the reverse threaded nut there. In my opinion if the engineers had thought it was that critical to maintain the alignment they would've put some sort of positive retention in there. Just my $.02. Also, I like that it has an odd number of vanes and I believe that helps. If you ever spend a bunch of time just staring at the rims of the cars around you almost all of them have 5 spokes to the wheels. I think this is done to minimize out of balance issues but I could be wrong. Again, all totally just my opinions but I believe the facts speak for themselves.
  4. Scottfunk

    IAT and MAP sensor

    I think I'll try a 3.3k resistor and see how that works. I think mid 120's *F is where I get the smoothest performance. My only question is this: does the ECM not think there's something odd about an IAT in the 120's when the coolant temp is less than 32*?
  5. Well I got the new compressor wheel in today. Didn't see any drastic changes in EGT or Load% but there was some improvement. The guy at the shop where I got my injectors rebuilt said to expect to burn through a little extra fuel in the first 10,000 miles so I guess I'll just have to be patient. The improvement in power was DEFINITELY noticeable though. YEEHAAAAA!!! Ignore the tooling marks around the outside of the wheel that was just me trying to get the wheel off without pulling the whole cartridge. I use a diaper rash paste to check the alignment when I set up ring and pinions, it's basically fish oil with a zinc additive. Would this be a safe substance to use to wipe a little around the tip of my fuel tubes to check the seat in the injectors? I just recently read the specs on torque for the fuel line/fuel tube retaining nut and I grossly overtightened them. I don't have any specific reason to want to check but I'm a bit of a worry wart and even more of a perfectionist.
  6. Scottfunk

    Big change in my life...

    Speedy recovery brother!
  7. Although somewhat indelicately said, I would mostly agree with this. There are basically three types of knowledge: the type of knowledge gained through personal experience, the type of knowledge gained through research, and knowledge gained from third parties. You could talk until you're blue in the face and you would never convince me that Craftsman tools are not the best mechanic's tools out there...personal experience. My truck has a Cummins engine but an Allison transmission...research. Not saying I'm right or wrong with either of those but I have a personal connection to the information and so I trust it. The trouble with third party information is that you have no personal connection to the information, so you can only validate or invalidate it through one of the other methods. There really just is no way to know without trying. That being said, I rarely rule anything out because of the label on it until I've personally evaluated it. I have a Harbor Freight MIG welder out in the garage next to my Everlast TIG welder. I only expect to get 3 years out of my Harbor Freight welder that I paid $200 bucks for, while I might hope for 10-15 years out of my $1000 Everlast. Does that make the Harbor Freight welder a bad value? For me, no. I forked over my money knowing that eventually I'd have to replace it. There's nothing wrong with buying an inexpensive turbo off of eBay as long as you go into it knowing it MAY not last as long as others. It may or it may not, but either way when it bites the bucket you'll know if it was the right choice for you and have the personal experience with it to know whether you'll make the same choice in the future.
  8. I was using this for the air filter, mounted directly on the turbo inlet. That cute little chrome button in the middle got tired of being there one day and tried to escape through the turbo. Needless to say I'm running a different style filter now. I'm sure some small particles made their way to the engine but I'm guessing most of it is hung up in the intercooler.
  9. I believe it was 315. They said they should settle into the middle of the range once the seats wear in. I don't have an exhaust brake yet, but I would like one. A 4" outlet would be nice too! Maybe a 35/40 with a billet wheel? hmmm...
  10. On second thought I think I'll just replace the wheel for now and upgrade to a VGT in the future. Think that'll make me happier for top end and spool up. Thanks
  11. OK I've had my injectors rebuilt and matched and chased down multiple boost leaks. My load/egt numbers are still pretty high and I haven't seen a marked improvement in fuel economy. I observed a couple weeks ago when I started on this quest that my compressor wheel had sustained some damage. I think SOME damage may have been a serious understatement. Judging by the pictures, would this be a possible source for my problem? I noticed recently that even under FULL acceleration I couldn't get 30psi. Assuming that at least most of my leaks are gone, should this be my next focus? That being said what would be the best way to fix this? I can get a replacement wheel on Amazon for $40, a whole new hx40 with t3/t4 adapter on eBay for $220, or an hx40 wheel/housing combo for abot $180. I know there would be some adaptations with the second two and maybe some turbo lag which I could probably adjust for slightly with the Quadzilla. I'm happy with the power I have now but do plan on using her for a towing rig in the future and it feels like the bigger turbo should help with EGT's, but if that's not going to be significant then I'll stick to stock. Keep in mind I have a Cummins/Allison combo in a '96 GMC so adaptation is the name of my game. Thoughts?
  12. All the talk about boost got me thinking...when WAS the last time I heard the wastegate open? Since I couldn't remember I made a pass through downtown Boise on my way home last night and did a couple 5-35 MPH full throttle blasts and sure enough no wastegate. I threw together a test boot and slapped it on and sure enough leaks everywhere. Must just be settling in from normal heat cycles. Anyways I tightened down all the clamps on the intake and it sounds much better, EGT's are down a bit but I still hear a bit of a wheezing sound from under the hood so I guess the search is not yet over. Don't tell my wife I could have saved $400 on new injectors if I would've thought to test for boost leaks BEFORE getting the injectors rebuilt. Shoot they needed it anyhow...
  13. Scottfunk

    Big change in my life...

    Man I had no idea. If you need a meal or anything else I can do to help let me know.
  14. What's the best way to find a leak in the intake? I can't build boost sitting in my driveway and I can't put my head under the hood while I'm driving...Rebuilt injectors helped some, and I'm hoping once the seats get worn in it will get a little better, but it's not good enough yet. I saw 1380* today getting on the freeway (aggressively yes, but still). My intake exists of sections of 3" aluminum tube joined with silicon rubber 90* connectors (rated to 90 psi). Also, maybe I should have looked into this earlier but a previous air filter I used, which was installed directly on the turbo inlet, had a little metal button on the tip of it that held the filter together (see pic, my description doesn't do justice). It's not totally obvious from the picture but this little button has an outside rim that makes the button EXACTLY the same size as the turbo inlet. So...one day I was driving down the road and hear this weird grinding sound. I pulled over to the side of the road, opened the hood, and listened for the sound but of course it went away. I got back on the road again and the sound came back so I headed home immediately. Upon removing the air filter I found the button in the turbo inlet and it had worn off the turbo wheel around the outside of the inlet hole. Considerably. Could this possibly be the source of my problem? I immediately replaced the filter and the power felt like it came back but honestly the filter could have been THAT bad. They get real dirty riding right behind the alternator. I bought a TIG welder and I'm practicing up so that hopefully some day soon I can build the whole intake system out of stainless including a cold air that's routed away from the filth of the engine. Anyways, worn turbo wheel affect fuel consumption and EGT's yes or no?
  15. OK @Mopar1973Man I need help. My #6 injector won't go back together. It feels like its in all the way, the keeper feels right when you bolt it down, but the tube won't seat in the side of the injector. There is evidence on the tube and the nozzle that the tube is riding low in the seat but I can't find anything wrong. I used a flathead screwdriver to make sure the old copper washer isn't stuck down there and it's not. Of course it's number 6 so I can't look down the injector bore. Check out the pictures...