Arodrigues29

0

I tried and got the same result. I just disconnected both batteries, took the Quad out completely, fired the truck up plugged in like factory. Re-Installed the Quad and the app and everything seems to be working as it should except for an ECM Volt reading in the app.

IAT reads 132. EGT was never hooked up, I have it to a pillar gauge.

So the BT harness needs 5v and I checked it and itnhad the supplied power. The only thing I never checked was the ignition sense wire to the in cab fuse box. It didn't seem loose and the fuse was fine but the BT unit/ADR immediately popped up on my phone. I know how ever have no communication to the app. I can adjust power levels but not even the speedo works. Took the truck for a loop around the neighborhood and it through an overboost code...I never broke 10psi lol. Data link is bad I assume?

Tried that this morning, no dice

Nope, on all the devices I re installed the app on, neither the app or the android BT menu see the adapater to add to memory. The one tablet I didn't delete the app on I attempted to pair as it was saved and the app said "unable to pair with device."

My Quad ADR stopped connecting to my devices recently. Sent it out and they tested and played with it and said my BT adapter tested fine, my module had a bad CANBUS connection but connected do their devices fine with their BT adapter. They replaced what they needed to and sent it back. Plugged it in today and no connection to devices again. My main harness is devoid of wire breaks and conections all look clean as well, Quad says harness malfunctions are almost non existent. I called them and they are getting back to me when they can come up with an answer. Any ideas while I wait to try. Tried 3 android devices, re installed app on each device, tried searching for BT unit via Quad's app and phones/tablets settings.

It's what I assumed, I just needed someone else, smarter then I, to say it. Danke shoen

This weekend I'm pulling out my god forsaken NV4500 and putting in a 5600. I have not for the life of me been able to confirm or deny if I'll also need to swap PCMs. My thinking is no but that answer is pulled completely from my arse. Both trucks and all parts are 2001s. I'm over here with random forum print outs and the full stack of FSMs like a mad man with no answer lol.

Took everything I could apart as far as grounds go again and reflashed the Quad. No luck. I jiggled the positive cable to my PDC by happenstance and sure enough it was loose. Seems like the nut backed itself off the terminal a bit and it arked in there. Some emory cloth and wire brushing, tightened it back down and 2 days of everything seemingly being ob kb. My passenger heated seat isn't even turning on by itself! Thanks for the help as always guys

PDC looks good. I just went to start the truck and it had no power again. I unplugged my Quad ADR and it fired up no issue.

2001 24v 5spd 4x My truck struggled to start slightly and clunked at 2K rpms in second pretty loudly and before I could pull off it did it again 1800 rpms in 3rd this time my headunit, trailer brake controller went off and back on and my lights started doing the rave party flash. Shut the truck off, checked my battery terminals everything looked cherry started it back up no issues. About 5 mins from home my gauge lights started flickering and my volt gauge spiked to 18. I had a battery terminal that was suspect and new batteries sitting around so I tossed them in, wire brushed the connections. 2 weeks of perfect driving and today it happened again, skip in second, hardish start headunit flash. This time when I turned the truck off it wouls not restart, no hazards, no power whatsoever. Took off positive battery cable on drivers side battery and reapplied it, truck fired right up w/ engine light for high voltage. Truck got me home, lights a little flickery. I cleaned all my grounds within the last 6 months, alternator tests good. Direction?

Yea, they overnighted me an HX40 flange, need to put it together tomorrow and get this thing in the truck. It's killing me to have the truck unoperational. It gave me some time to address the less important things I've been putting off for awhile like a clearance light, fog light aiming, etc lol.

Thanks man, much appreciated.

Did you use high heat hose or anything special? I know that line isn't under pressure but I figured that was partly steel line because of the potential for that drainage to be real hot.

So I took the plunge and bought a new turbo after much debate... Got a 62/68/14 BW S300 SX-E gated. Beautiful work and amazing customer service from the guys at DAP! I have a question regarding fitment of the stock oil drain to an S300. Can I bend and flatten the metal tube to clear the wastegate actuator/compressor housing? I know they make flexible returns but I'm honestly nervous of screwing with the 16 year old bung on the block, as all the aftermarket kits drain to the block, not the factory rubber section our hard lines go to. Also, some how I got a HX40 DP for what I'm assuming is an HE351 flange

They seemed ok but I am going to look again, don't know why I didn't double check them. There is the possibility my leveling kit finally took a toll on them... Thank you for the input/sanity check! Yes noise was there prior but I could feel the spanked passenger side wheel bearing/and upper BJ and figured they were the root. That chattery knock from them has gone away since the install. I'm running 35" BFG ATs, I know 35s and solid axles is never going to give me a Caddy ride or stock ride quality but it seems/sounds like something is loose

Seems more suspension related, sloppy as in the noise sounds like a wheel is going to fall off the front and it's shakey on frost heaves, roots under roads, etc. Steering box is a Redhead w/ 20K on it and I have a brace installed as well. Replaced my steering shaft at the same time. I checked that though and it all seems tight as a drum.

I'm ready to pull my whiskers out. I have this rattle in my front end and a shimmy over longer stretches of uneven surfaces and I can't find the source to save my life. I have replaced all 4 BJs, both unit bearings, shocks, pads, rotors, axle u joints, tie rod ends, tires and sway bar links. I had been amassing the parts but being lazy so I just did it all because everything need some level of attn. I did it all myself, double/triple checked my work and the TQ on my bolts. Also my trac-bar is a 3rd gen with the bracket, and it's tight. I need a new direction to look in because my truck feels sloppier and sloppier.

It's funny because the 62s wheel is really 61.4 but the 63s is 62.99. I think I'm going with a 63/68/12. In reality i freight me bed more then I tow so I don't think the later spin will drive me to insane over a 62/65/12.

What's the difference you'd feel/see with a 63/68/12 vs 62/68/12? Truly different enough that they can justify selling both?

The crack is why I'm giving up on it, that plus I'd like a little extra go fast. 16 years of New England weather, that exhaust housing is not going to seperate easily

You are more then welcomed to it, just pay the shipping and it's yours. Just want to forewarn that there's a ton of shaft play and the flange is cracked and has been drilled out.

All are available as 12 or 14

JAG. I've just been in the loop of burning the candle at both ends, work has been insane! I picked up a few extra shifts at my P/T gig at night too because I'm determined to buy a house by 30. I only have 1.5 years left so I'm trying to squirrel. Cummins tech- Thank you I'm assuming the 62/68 will give me a touch more top end, correct?