Arodrigues29

I've been researching for awhile and I am more lost then when I started... My HX35 is mashed potatoes and it's time to throw it in the scrap pile. I've been looking at the Smeding Diesel Borg Warner "drop in" turbos because I've heard good things for the price. My truck has a FASS150, 150hp injectors, Quad ADR, 103# springs, a 5" pipe on it and it's a 5speed. I use it for work and moderate towing, I won't be taking it to the strip anytime soon, if ever. Turbo config I'm leaning towards is a 362/68/14, think that will fit the bill? They also offer a 362/65/14 and 366/68/14, 366/73/14 which I've determined is most likely too laggy. Just need some incite, ideas, opinions from reputable people. Thank you.

Thanks again for the advice guys

Excellent, I'll definitely pick one of those up. Hag, did you end up just replacing your housing?

Seems fine, it really only seems like the spray comes from the hose side of the thermostat housing, but the housing isn't that old. Thermostat, housing and radiator I put in maybe a year and half ago. I know the easier answer is just put a new housing in because they are cheap enough but the intermittent-ness of the leak concerns me I guess.

Overflow line is still connected, and I put on a new lever lock cap just because I dig them. Spray is never from that area, it's always right where the hose and horn meet near the valve cover

Good day. Over the past year I occasionally open my hood to see dryed antifreeze spotted on my upper rad hose and valve cover. My temp has always been fine, I never really have to add antifreeze to the truck because it looks like the "leak" is more of a spray. Figured it was a bad/old hose looks like the area of loss is always at the horn into the motor. Took Genos Garage up on it's hose discount of April and ordered up new hoses and clamps, installed them, did a coolant flush and things have been fine. A few days ago I got out of my truck to walk into work and there was a puddle underneath, popped the hood and everything was soaked from the same area. I wire brushed that horn the hose connects too and went another 2 days with no mist or drops, and the truck just did it again. What am I missing?

My father lives in Cumberland, I grew up in Matunuck. I live in Jamestown now, it's tough keeping her clean on the island of salt lol. If you mean cooler rim wise, no. I run the stockers or Hummer beadlocks all the time. I've been looking into getting a set of the aluminum 3rd gen 17s with some nice rubber, the deep dish big wheels don't do it for me.

Beautiful truck, the Alcoas look amazing!

Can I see a picture of your truck? You may have been the one I took the idea of badging the grill from. The rest of the truck I debadged when it got the silver SLT stripe painted black and I thought long about a tastefull place to put one Cummins badge on, saw a black one on Google and was sold.

Hey guys, finally signed up and donated instead of just lurking. I'm Andrew and I'm from RI. My trucks an 2001 ECSB 5 speed 4x4 SLT with a Sport conversion. 276000 miles and going

That explanation was perfection! I have to do some tuning changes... I went from 60 to 120 injectors recently and have not had the time unfortunately to straighten it out. I chalked my slight idle lope up to that, but the MAP code through me a little off course. Thank you for the continued help, I'm going to watch my data logs more often and set time aside this Sunday for some tune changes.

Yea, that was going to be my next step. I didn't know if my lope, engine light, brief stint in limp mode was caused by a failing MAF, for which I got the code for. Figured it possible that the Quad was acting up for the same reason. I'll clean the connection again. And give it a whirl. I had some strange lift pump issues awhile back which sent me on the endless quest to clean all grounds and connections. Ended up being the FASS harness itself. I've had some quirks over the past 2 years that always make me think my ECM is shot but they always seem to dissapate before I can nail the problem source down.

I sprayed some electronics cleaner in all my plugs and hit them with dielectric grease back when I was having weird lift pump issues. I also heat wrapped that connection and taped it up. It's extremely intermittent. I've had it freeze 2 days in a row and then go 3 months of normality.

No everything freezes seemingly randomly speedo/gauge/moniter wise but I can still adjust power levels. I have mechanical gauges so the app pretty much only reads the base line. Electronic gauges don't sit will with me so I never switched them over to run off the Quad

Truck has had the faintest lope at idle, for about a week, no other issues in driveability until yesterday. Noticed a decrease in power in every gear, first time was shifting into 4th while merging, I was accelerating but gutlessly. On my way home, I got a CEL. This morning I had the light with the power loss still, went to Dunkin Donuts on the way to work but when I came out had no light/no power loss. I scanned it after work and that's all I got for a code, 0237. As far as Quad issues, my Quad seems to freeze up, can't tell if it's the app or the ADR itself. Have to unplug it and plug it back in to get it to work again. I've had the Quad for over a year and have always intermittently had to do this reset.

I know this is diverting from my original question but... My CEL and limp mode was gone this morning but I scanned it after work and the code came back 0237 MAF/Boost sensor. Could a bad MAF be the cause of my Quadzilla issues?

My Quad has an issue of dumping the vehicle profile and the app will freeze entirely but allow me to still change power levels. I must see diagnostic every time I have to unplug it to reset the frozen app.

I pulled my abs relay and drove it for 2 days before getting around to putting in my wheel bearing/abs sensor. All the sketchyness disappeared with the relay out and now that everything is buttoned up braking seems back to normal. I won't lie, I still have some internal butterflies in traffic after that incident however

Thank you good sir

How do you read codes with it then? I swear to god it used to say "diagnostics" after "data logging"

Engine light came on today, did the key trick and got P1693 companion code. When I went to find the real code with my Quadzilla App, the "Diagnostics" option was missing altogether. Did they change something I'm unaware of with the app? Can't be on the truck side that, that option is missing correct? Didn't show up on my phone or tablet iQuad app by the way.

Would a bad wheel bearing with a shot sensor most likely be the cause? My passenger side wb is spanked. Haven't had time to throw the new one in yet, didn't realize the sensor was bad too

01/5pd/4x Put the pedal down to stop the other day, got rewarded with no decel, some jingling and a stiff pedal, was able to feather it a bit until the pedal depressed and stopped me. Took my wheels off and looked to find a missing pad clip, pad was loose figured it to be my issue so I did pads and rotors since I was in there anyway. 3 days of normal braking no issue, today it rained a bit, I had about 40 mins of driving in everything pointed to normalcy until...same issue along with a butt puckeringly close call on the poor Accord in front of me. ABS/Brake lights flashed on and off a few times, I limped home. As I was backing into my driveway I noticed my wheel was tough at close to full lock. Could the equation of symptoms equal bad hydroboost? I never have steering issues, my truck cooked a Redhead steering box in about 12K but I got a replacement from them and it's been about a year issue free so I went with the idea of a bad casting...

Thanks gents, I'll check and report back

So to answer a few things mentioned above. I installed the wiring harness with the FASS and 1/2" lines. Replaced all the fittings, added a draw straw to my tank. I recently cleaned every ground when I had my manifold and turbo off ~6 months ago. If I key bump my LP runs but doesn't power up (whine) like it should, it sounds very underpowered if you will, gauge doesn't raise up above 7-8 psi regardless of key on/key bump, sometimes less. If I start the truck it idles/holds fast in the same psi region it primed too. (I have a new gauge as well as I thought it could be the gauge originally). The FASS 150 replaced my old FASS HPFP 95 that was on there for about 9 years. It was steadily producing less and less fuel psi so I bought a new one because I like the Titanium series filtration better then Wix inline filters lol and thought it had given up. New pump installed got cavatation, thought I was sucking air even after LP prime per FASS directions. Added draw straw to address that as I had a broken return line in my tank. Now, no cavitation, no bouncing in my guage, just low fuel psi. Even had FASS send me a new check ball and spring for the return side. Old FASS 95 used same 1/2" line and the same FASS wiring harness (FASS pn WH-1002) but I used the new ones provided anyway.