Florin1

Yeah my steel protective plate crushed it, but it only ended up being the very end part. The little 10" pigtail is still good, along with the female connector part. Here's what I'm talking about.

Does anybody know if the little “male” connector with the spring door can be purchased separately from the pigtail that plugs into the body trailer harness? And if so, what’s the part number? All I can read is Delphi. Everything else is gone. Thank you.

I tried, but it keeps asking me to put my address in, but then it doesn’t recognize my address.

Update: I bought a used alternator and a 140A fuse off a 99 cummins somebody local is parting out. Went home and tried to follow John’s great tips. Both batteries were reading 12.5 volts. I put the 140A fuse on, I took off old alternator, and put new one in. Made a 5A jumper fuse between the B+ wire and the stud on alternator. Disconnected the grid heater wire at the positive driver battery post. It wasn’t clear if you wanted me to start the truck next, or just key on to see if the fuse 5A fuse popped. So I just did key on, and it didn’t pop. So I hooked up the B+ and started truck. I put my volt meter on the battery posts and it was reading steady at 14.33v on both batteries. And 14.35 at alternator I think. I let it idle for 5 min, and voltage stayed steady at 14.33. So does this mean PROBLEM SOLVED? I am thankful for your help guys. MM, where do I chip in?

Thank you gentlemen for the wonderful tips. I will hopefully get out to the truck today and apply what you’ve all said. I tried to reply back yesterday, but I reached my “maximum posts for the day”. I was surprised to see this. I’ve donated in the past, didn’t realize rules have changed. John, the batteries are refurbished from interstate batteries. Like I just bought them a couple weeks ago from them. The 145A fuse was blown. I’m embarrassed to say, but I actually put a dab of solder on the break to make the connection again thinking surly my tiny solder bridge was thinner than original fuse. This was the first thing I did when I got the truck. Didn’t occur to me that that’s why the alternator got hot. Also I don’t have the fuse box cover so I didn’t even know what that fuse was to. I assumed it blew because when the truck got stolen, and they cut out the batteries and cables, they shorted something out. Still may be the case. I guess this would explain the alternator/generator getting so hot? I found a guy locally parting out a 1999 cummins and he will sell me his alternator for $30. So I’ll be picking that up on Saturday.

I just put new/refurb batteries in it. From interstate batteries. I assume they would have just tested them before selling them?

Hmm ok. Here is something I found, that now I’m thinking is possibly related? don’t see how to post pictures off my phone so I’ll describe. under the hood fuse box, there’s two fat wires on the onboard side of fuse box. They are bolted down and bridged together by some kind of “fuse”. That fuse is broken now.

Thank you VERY much!! I’ll look into this when I get home. I appreciate it. What does “full fielded” mean?

I wouldn’t think so... I just redid the positive and negative terminals. You wouldn’t happen to have a wiring diagram of the engine bay would ya? Lol

Hey all. I bought my truck as a theft recovery, and so all the battery wires were cut up. I replaced the wires, and also the serpentine belt this evening due to a failing damper. I fired it up and let it idle, everything looked fine, and then like 5 min of idling and I started smelling an almost burnt plastic smell. Was looking at the alternator and could see smoke, so I killed the engine. The alternator was extremely hot! It looked like some of the solder or whatever holds the copper wires together, started boiling. Looked like tar. I wasn’t sure if it was motor oil that got splashed onto the alternator. Not sure. B it the smell was definitely not oil, and it definitely stunk! The alternator didn’t make any noise either. I thought that maybe I routed the serpentine belt wrong, but I triple checked, and it’s as per the sticker on radiator support. I took tension off the belt with the idler, and spun the alt. pulled in both directions and it spun freely. And there wasn’t any play in it either. Any ideas? Thank you. 2001 Cummins 2500 4x4 5speed.

Thanks for the quick answer.

Hello. I found some 2018 Ram 2500 Bilstein shocks here locally, for cheap, will these bolt up to my 2001 2500 long bed 4x4 truck, with little modifications? The rears is what I’m after, but if fronts fit as well, then bonus.

You like the Pacific Northwest? Yes, we have some gorgeous scenery. Here are a couple pics from same weekend.

Don't have a scale around me. But yeah I was able to get all four of he truck axles on the scale at the same time. So who knows. How much does your guys' truck weigh? In a SB 4x4?

I'd like to know what my trailer actually weighs. I found a scale and took weighs. Drove onto the scale. Here are the numbers. (Trailer is a 5er) Truck: Front Axle- 4400 F/R Axles- 9400 Rear Axle- 5250 Trailer: Both Axles at the same time- 7700 I don't know what my truck weighs unloaded, but it's a 98.5 qcsb, auto, Dana 60/70, 4x4 stock bumpers, 265/70/17 tires on 03 steel wheels.

I just did my axle seals. It was a pain. But I did it. Let me know if you still gonna do it and I'll give some tips and pix.

The tranny is still in the truck.

Hi guys. I'm in the middle of doing a shift kit and I noticed my frond band is pretty low. I've read that you can pull the band out and put a new one in without pulling the transmission. Can anyone confirm? Maybe give me a part number? I need to put truck back together by Wednesday. Heres what my band looks like.

I'm wondering what yr and models came with Dana 60/70/80 that are a direct swap into my truck. 98.5 2500. I have RWABS only. My goal is to find a wrecked ram that has 4.10 ratio, and just take the axles off of it instead of going through a shop to regear my truck. Did gassers come with the same axles? And what years. Can I tell axle ratio by looking at the vin? Or do I need to call dealer? Thanks

Yeah transmission is all stock. Just adjusted bands and fresh fluid a couple months back. 220k on truck.

Thanks for the links guys. Any of you gentlemen do this kit? Any tips? So I should order that billet lever, strap and anchor? And I can do that with transmission in the truck? Anything else?

So I pulled the trigger on the transgo SK TFOD-Diesel kit today. I'm not happy with how the tranny acts while I tow my fiver so I'm gonna try this kit. I also ordered a new Dorman pan 265-827 off Amazon because mine might be warped, and this one comes with a drain plug. My questions. What else should I order while I'm in there that should be done. I've read something about billet intermediate servo, accumulator, band strut, band anchor, 3-4 spring, and upgrade the governor solenoid ? But that's jibbrish to me at this point in my research. I'm not looking to drop the trans out. Just whatever I can do to the VB. Also so any tips or write ups of he install would be most appreciated. Thank you.

Yeah I sent them back. I got backing plates. So i still have those. Looks like I'll have two sets after I get my new pair

Just 4th gen.

So just got my mirrors. And to my surprise, they aren't even close. What did you guys do to make em work?